My latest

If you want to do touring and drifting, you can try the Sakura Zero S. I personally love mine to bit. It's been very tough (been crashing it a lot!), handles power very well, also handles the track pretty well.

- Sakura Zero S
- Hobbywing 5.5T + 60A ESC
- Sanwa MT4 (Or FlySky GT3B if you want to save some $$$ )
- Savox SC-1257TG
- Turnigy 6000mAH 65C LiPo

In regards to choosing between shaft and belt driven, it would be more advisable to get a belt driven car as opposed to a shaft driven. A lot of pure bred racing chassis ( TRF 415,416,417 , Xray T2, T3, T4, Schumacher Mi4, Kyosho TF5, Team Associated TC5, TC6) are all belt driven. It doesn't mean you can't get a shaft driven car to perform, but there are limitations to how much power you can put to the shaft before it bends. If you insist on a shaft driven platform, you can consider the Team Associated TC4, which itself is relatively proven as a club racer over at the States.

I'll get back to you later

HSP FF1? I dont know of such a car. But I do have a HSP on road car, tuned for rally duties.

HL518? Avoid chinese clones at all costs. Same goes to the Vantex 416. Avoid.

That leaves you with the sakura D3. Well, it is a good chassis to begin with, but you're pretty much limited to drifting ONLY, no touring as the gear ratios front-to-rear means you probably wont be able to drive in a straight line.

Cheaper build?

Sakura Zero S
FlySky GT3B
Hobbywing 9t + 35A
Blue Bird BMS-631MG
Turnigy Nanotech 5300mAH 30C
GT hobbies GT606D (Built in power adapter)

That should be better?

Drift or touring?

Ask kayFX or ayiesz

No prob.

Let me know if you decide to get the battery

Bodyshell is about RM110. Paint (PS16) RM20.

MyRCStation ada.

Tamiya

‎[TIP]
It's always better to buy a higher C rated battery as compared to a lower C. Also, I've came across many LHS that claims that using higher C batteries will fry your ESC. I say that is false. The motor will PULL how much power it needs. So if the battery, with the higher C rating, will be able to sustain the higher amp draw. A lower C rated battery will be stressed and eventually get puffed (kembang). For general usage, anything above 40C should be sufficient (1/10 on road/ light off road). For heavier and more powerful 1/10 offroad and 1/8 offroads, it's advisable to use at least 60C. Do ask if you have any questions

Always charge your lipo in a lipo bag.

Always.

Only had failed lipo, no fires.

Spoilt battery? Discharge them (if possible), then throw in to the garbage.

Gotta throw the battery away.

And ban your brother from going near lipo batteries.

Anyone interested in a low voltage alarm? I have some that looks like this, for RM18. COD Price.






Can set alarm for voltages between 2.7 ~ 3.8V. Can also save your settings. Supports up to 8S lipo.

Competitors selling the naked ones for RM23.

From memory, some shops like DRC may still have the MT4 G3, but I may be wrong. Do a quick search on Mudah, and NK Hobbies may also have them in stock. Better call/sms them for stock inquiries.

As for the Summit 1/10, shops lik MegaStation, MyRCStation, DRC, FGM used to have them in stock, but have since sold out.

I haven't seen the Vorza Flux HP locally yet.

old tamiya cars are cool!

heres what you can try.

remove servo, then test with a servo tester. set it to center from the tester

then from your car, set your wheels as straight as you can,then mount the servo it. this way even if u need to trim, there wont be a need for much trimming

I visit their shop once in a while.. Have you called them?

Hobbyking bulk

Anyone?

Prices quoted are before shipping costs. Usually if shared among other items, wont cost that much.