is there a problem with that? the existing speakers can be put into the rear and can use fader options to keep them low so they will not interrupt the new ones

then save up 500-600+ and change only the HU. later only saveup/decide for the speakers

you can go with a reputable brand alpine/pioneer HU, and a reputable brand component set

if you want to have subwoofer and amp along, i am afraid you may want to save up a little bit more

can. good or not is another matter

those entry level also need a certain budget ma, and its a bit hard to achieve with rm500 (installation, cables etc?)

if he DIY then that's a different story

can just get a basic HU that supports AUX in assuming your current car's HU doesn't have one already

yes correct

get component set, a 4channel amp, and a subwoofer.

3k +/- should be able to do it no problem. if you want to soundproof your door then may not be enough.

ill take door sound proofing:

when your speaker resonates/vibrates (the mid bass, when theres bass kicking in), it will travel through the door. more often than not that will cause unwanted vibration/noise and it will pollute your sound reproduction.

sound proofing helps reduce or even completely eliminate that.

another example is engine firewall/hood or bonnet sound proofing:

engine noise? minimal or gone.

i can hear, how?

btw, seriously thinking of refurbishing the interiors. outside my car *looks* new aside from the "recycled"/reused parts, but the inside...

seriously lovin my engine hood/bonnet sound proofing though, serious NVH reduction despite the high RPM roars haha

rm2k can get you a pretty good HU and component set.

for HU, take a pick on either pioneer/alpine (audition if possible, if not then just pick based on design/functions etc)

component set you may search through this thread, or the v1 recommendation thread, or even the brand thread for what brand/model you should be looking for

decent car amps cost between rm1k to 2k for an entry level 4channel(again, reputable brands, not chicken brands) assuming you would want it to drive your subwoofer too

---

Added on June 27, 2012, 12:43 pmno idea bro, however a good way is to start isolating components and keep it simple in troubleshooting.
easier to pinpoint faults (which atm assuming it is your HU)

better if you can get another 9855 and if the sound is different/off for your 9855, you know what to fix/replace

---

Added on June 27, 2012, 12:44 pmtry not to look at peak wattage, which chicken brand amps love to boast

can refer to JL audio's product manual/specifications for accurate details. i believe their website also has them

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jun 27 2012, 12:44 PM

im using boston acoustic GT40 4channel, bought it for around rm1.5k back then IINM

they are no longer in production and are replaced by newer models:
http://www.bostonacoustics.com/Amplifiers-C252.aspx (take a pick lol)

then there are also other brands like helix, JL audio, german maestro, rockford (they do pack a punch in the SPL world heh!), dominations and so on so forth (can visit the brand thread too for more info/idea or even recommendations: http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/832695 )

why not?

better both for "best effect", or if you really wanna learn what item (HU, or component set speakers) does what (what changes/difference) then you can opt to do 1 at a time.

even in "group"/combination upgrades, unless you got the money to buy the whole set, it is recommended to go in 2 pairings:
HU + component speakers

then

amp (4 channel if you're not looking for further upgrades to drive BOTH comp speakers and woofer) + subwoofer

i wouldnt say huge difference having the amp to drive the component, rather a huge difference because i have a subwoofer to drive the low frequencies, and the midbass (component set) being driven properly altogether.

music works in harmony, one cant be without the other

for entry/mid levels, you can probably just look into functionality (BT? usb?)

mid/high ends you can look into tuning options etc.

never really bothered about the preouts/voltage as pioneer/alpine have their pre outs/voltage ratings etc being "standard"

i dont think people have frequency crossing/filtration for subwoofers? as its usually just low frequencies?

maybe look into rockford (assuming original) amp or monoblock + woofer and be done with it? maybe their component set too

it will definitely be over rm1k though

google rockford fosgate