He's judging from the camera itself which may not be accurate, plus, there's other factors like the is it under 100% the same condition? Any under-expose or dark areas, etc?

There's already detail test done by many professional anyway, with samples for your to see and compare, plus some even take the raw file vs jpeg file to compare with D3S, and also resample to D3S size, it gets better after resampled to 12MP.

True, that's why I didn't say reduce, hehe; I wrote better in terms of overall

I think what D800 excels in is the detail, really amazing.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 2 2012, 02:22 PM

almost similar? Not for my experience, I don't like the diffusion dome effect, it's much harsher and direct, plus it tends to darken the background. Shooting with same setting, the DFD Pro way better result from my experience, especially when you can adjust the diffuser and modify it to a bigger one.

For easier setup can purchase or DIY this: http://www.abetterbouncecard.com/
Only thing can't really adjust just DFD Pro.

I tried indoor small room or big room, didn't like the effect. One of the event, I saw 2 photographer, one of them using dome, flash slightly backwards instead of up or front, and another photographer using mixture of bounce and bounce card. SOOC, you can easily tell which is using the dome; In AWB, "generally", the dome will give cold tone, darker background and more hard lighting.


Depending on the environment, without flash and with flash (depending how it is used) can give really different outcome.

No, head up; Perhaps need to adjust settings as you're getting less reach but wider all around. I'm comparing similar settings with DFD Pro and Dome, the DFD Pro would get better ambient lighting, while the dome with the same settings will have darker background, plus the AWB will also produce cold tone.

The photographer which angle the flash head sligthy backwards, the photo I saw gives the same result just not so direct/harsh.

Just from what I've experience and seen, as usually people use diffusion dome generally, the result is always similar and you can easily tell they're using diffusion dome (SOOC short with AWB and TTL).

I think more like teasing or sarcasm? LoL, even if D800, nothing to do with need or want to edit or not.

Actually, doesn't matter commercial or for self, it's the self satisfaction and expectation. If you shoot jpeg then you have less options or flexibility to correct and apply your own processing to the photo.
JPEG is still processed, but processed by the camera using STANDARD/GENERAL or PREDEFINED processing in the camera or Nikon's proprietary processing. You can also customize slightly the processing by adjusting some parameters, but it's still applies the same for all photos, which you may not always want to.
If you want to custom and apply your own settings for EACH photo, then you shoot RAW and processed to your own preference and taste.

Think of it as cooking, you bought a raw meat; and the Camera is a standard/general device which will process the meat, it provides few selection of how you want to cook the meat and you can also find tune. For fast, you can use the pre-define setting and throw in the raw meat and let it process. So different brand device have their own predefined processing to suit different taste. So, it depends if you want to use these predefined processing or do your own processing.

You can shoot RAW, then in the camera, you can process again with different profile e.g. Standard, Portrait, Vivid, etc, which you can still adjust each profile during the processing. OR you can just process all using 1 profile; but the profile usually don't suit every settings, e.g. shooting human portrait and shooting car. So, it depends on your own satisfaction and expectation. You can be happy with the 'standard' processing result or you can feel it can be further enhance to make it better.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 4 2012, 03:52 PM

There is 2 type NR, one is the normal NR, one more NR is "LONG EXPOSURE NOISE REDUCTION".

Your SD Card is Class 6, but what speed? The standard one is 6MB/sec. You shoot JPEG or RAW? or BOTH?

Bulb mode is exposure longer than 30s; what do you mean by burst shot in bulb mode?
Bulb mode, the shutter will be open for 30 second for 1 exposure.

Long exposure even you're on ISO 100 can have noise.

If you mean normal shot burst and you shoot raw only, then I'm not sure about D5100 buffer. Can check with Calvin.
If not check if your card is genuine.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 4 2012, 09:11 PM

LiveView using Contrast Detect, sure different when using viewfinder.

If there is Back Focus or Front Focus issue, using LiveView doesn't have this problem.

Huh?
I'm saying if have problem with focusing, using LiveView sure will spot on, as reply to your statement about when they use LiveView it's spot on.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 13 2012, 10:01 AM

That's why I say LiveView will yield different result and will show spot on. LoL, your reply like disagree, but then you said back the same thing back? LoL.

Anyway, I think I misunderstood from your initial statement.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 13 2012, 10:33 AM

Thanks, that's extreme cases?
Most issue people face is either back/front focus by body AF or lens.

Did you use recovery or something? There's something wierd about the photos.

Did you use a lot of luminance noise reduction?

I think not called Auto-Area AF, technically Auto-Area AF means, AF-A

I think you mean Dynamic Area AF?
But I think you should use 3D Tracking Area for the example you mentioned.

In lower end bodies, there's AF-A:

For explanation, here's a video, navigate to AF Area.
You will see Auto-Area, Dynamic Area and 3D Tracking:
http://www.nikondigitutor.com/eng/d90/index.shtml

In 3D Tracking, it's what as per explain where it helps in recomposition. I seldom use these, I think it newer models, there is Auto mode will full Focus point, but not sure if it's considered Dynamic or not because Dynamic is not display or shown at all.

It doesn't matter, it's just a function/feature.
In fact, it's from Nikon. All models shares the same Dynamic, Single, 3D and Auto. Some older models may not have some features and some advance models may not have those lower end beginner feature. Either way, the term is the same, such as Dynamic, Single, 3D, etc.
D7000 does have BOTH Auto-Area Focus Point and AF-A

Anyway, it's just terms, good to know; doesn't matter which body. At least we now know, there 2 things about Auto-Area.


EDIT:
OK, just check D7000 manual, the AF-A explanation is more clear, it's should be called, Auto-Servo AF, as in Single-Servo AF and Continuous Servo AF. This should fall under AutoFocus mode, while the other should be as what you've mentioned, AutoFocus/AF "Area" Mode.


This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 16 2012, 09:28 AM

Oh~ Thanks~

Under warranty should be cheaper, I think RM20?

Did you tell them your unit still under warranty?
Where did you ask? Try check with Nikon HQ in PJ.

Depends what type of HDR, most people seems to do the extreme HDR rather than natural HDR, as in to achieve higher dynamic range to capture the shot.

Check below for more natural or proper HDR, the main/primary purpose of HDR is to achieve what our eyes can see:
http://conversations.nokia.com/2010/07/27/...light-examples/

The other types of HDR, I would consider as "artistic" HDR, well, at least the way I see it.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 25 2012, 12:47 PM

True and nice article from eddieputra!

But both also doesn't look like the natural type. By the way, did you use high clarity in those pictures?

There's something unique and nice for those extreme/artistic HDR, if it's done well.