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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion Thread Ver.15, Get your D800/D4 now !

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Andy214
post Apr 27 2012, 11:24 AM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Apr 27 2012, 10:49 AM)
lol...true...duno...maybe nikon will make this move if they target some new FX customer with new AFS lens who willing to pay moar  brows.gif

meanwhile it will reduce greatly for the weight? like D5100?  unsure.gif
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Happy BIRD-Day Agito...

Andy214
post May 1 2012, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(tctham @ May 1 2012, 09:23 PM)
keke.. 18mm on an 18-55 is also considered as UWA.. still can attempt with kit lens smile.gif
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That's 27mm on 35mm format, it's only wide angle.
Andy214
post May 2 2012, 11:07 AM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ May 2 2012, 10:30 AM)
okay  smile.gif
the name of sifu CY is no play-play
CY = See ( Y ) brows.gif  drool.gif
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So creative, haha

This post has been edited by Andy214: May 2 2012, 11:07 AM
Andy214
post May 3 2012, 10:21 AM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ May 3 2012, 10:08 AM)
but too slow will be more worst right ? whistling.gif

P.S: PS can make motion blur.  brows.gif  whistling.gif
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PS can make Panning effect?
If you use fast shutter, the tyre's won't be spinning the background also will be clear. It will look like the car stop there for you to shoot. That's why people use panning for moving objects.
The shutter speed depends on the speed of the moving object and you need to follow the object as you pan and press the shutter.

user posted image
Andy214
post May 3 2012, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(amduser @ May 3 2012, 10:28 AM)
dont rely on post process la, get it right in the shot is more important tongue.gif
this is that kind of panning i wanted to make, but sometime my zoom lens cant track the subject well with AF-C because it is a crop lens and AF is slow sad.gif

hard to hold zoom lens steady without monopod especially after running around the area for different angle
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Doesn't matter, people still do with kit lens anyway. I'm using Tamron lens, and the AF is also slow and not all the shot will be good, there will be many fail shot.

You need to test with different shutter speed to see which match the best with the object speed. For GRA/autocross/autokhana, the speed can vary a lot and also depends, cause GRA involves more turning, so you need to also shoot at the right place..

QUOTE(Agito666 @ May 3 2012, 10:34 AM)
unsure.gif

another question:

how fast shutter speed for make the car stopped?

how slow the shutter speed to make eveything blur?  hmm.gif  unsure.gif
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If you use fast shutter, everything is FROZEN.
E.g. The tyre is not spinning (try shooting spinning fan, is your shutter speed is fast, the fan is frozen in your photo)
The background doesn't have the effect like the panning photo.

Panning means, your camera is moving tracking the subject. So, in slow shutter and you move your camera, what happens?
So how come the subject is not blur? Because you're FOLLOWING the subject.

It's best if you try it out, you can even pan people walking, or cars on the street, etc. Can even do with mobile phones.

One you're done trying it, with Flash, you can do much more, like rear-sync. Saw Initial-D effect, the cars leavin the trails of their back/brake light?

Andy214
post May 3 2012, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(seather @ May 3 2012, 02:08 PM)
that is a cropped photo  blush.gif testing b4 paying the shop...

nothing else attached.. not even UV filter... juz the lens n body but i set the PC to Vivid

Exif Info

anyway.. i always here ppl say tamron macro lens are better?  hmm.gif
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In terms of price, but there's many difference in what it offers.

Nikon's 105 have IF, Nano Coating, Much Faster and Silent Focusing, Excellent build, VR2, etc.
Andy214
post May 4 2012, 12:25 AM

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QUOTE(hidden830726 @ May 3 2012, 10:50 PM)
Bro Calvin,

Nice pic,

but last pic

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Why seems something wrong, donno how to tell, maybe the axis
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Not just last pic actually. Seems like too much contrast or clarity or both.
Andy214
post May 4 2012, 09:10 AM

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QUOTE(Calvin Seak @ May 4 2012, 01:13 AM)
Haha I see Thanks! I think too much info in the picture d maybe looks messy too


Added on May 4, 2012, 1:15 am

Thanks for the comment! Could you lead me to the right direction?
I was wondering when a picture has to much contrast will it look too messy?
I was just trying out something I learned from a CD I bought a year ago! Now only took the time to learn lol..

Nevertheless would love to improve myself!
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As hidden commented, it's personal. For me, I feel it's too much contrast/clarity or both, how much you pump/adjust?
As I notice, usually people like to pump in high contrast and clarity to give the "Oomph", but then if you look at the details and compare, you will notice it will darken too much. At a glance it look "Wow", but as you pay more attention, you may see things differently, especially when there is human subject, you will want to tone down on both these (although some people still tend to pump a lot of contrast and clarity, so it's really personal; but to make a dramatic picture, most people pump this, sort of like Dragaan effect, or something like that.
Btw, I believe pic 1136 can further improve by correcting the WB.

Anyway, for the picture itself, I feel it looks unnatural, something like overdone HDR look. Just my personal opinion when I saw the last 3 pictures. As mentioned, it's personal feel, some may like it, some may not.

My cheap 2 shutter click.

This post has been edited by Andy214: May 4 2012, 09:15 AM
Andy214
post May 8 2012, 11:53 AM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ May 8 2012, 11:10 AM)
just wonder how the panning work...

i know the basic panning...what if you panning when the car is turning the corner? the car angle sure changed already...so is it shootable? for that situation.
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It's like your eyes follow the subject moving.

The subject should not be moving away or towards you, it should be moving from left to right or right to left, so you're panning from left to right or right to left.
As previously I posted, the Go Kart car is entering corner and going around me, so, it's also moving close the further away, but it's moving from right to left and gets closer as it get into the apex of the turn and then move away. You need to set your focus to continuous (AF-C mode) and fire's continuously. You may not get all the shots successful.

This post has been edited by Andy214: May 8 2012, 12:05 PM
Andy214
post May 8 2012, 12:44 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ May 8 2012, 12:06 PM)
as we know from waterfall technique, slower shutter speed will make the water stack together/ or "after image" right?

i mean when the car turning steering on corner side... wont it become a piece of blur shape ?

or that panning is fast enough to prevent that?
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Ok, there is out of focus blur and movement blur. When you pan at slow shutter, the blur effect is due to movement.
If you're following the car with proper speed and shutter speed, there will be no movement blur, but the tyres will because it's spinning faster, if the hand is turning the steering wheel or the head is moving or "rocking due to rock music" when you capture, then it may cause movement blur.
If you're using bigger aperture, then you may risk getting blur of some part of the car which is not in focus. Usually we will be using smaller aperture.
As for continuous focus mode, and the subject is moving, the focus may not always spot on, so you may get many failed shot too especially the car is entering corner, like the photo I posted previously, I'm in the middle of the corner and the Kart is entering the corner, coming closer to me and then further away, so the focus may not spot on for every shot.

I think it's best to try it out yourself, you can even do it with your N8. With DSLR is better as you can control and adjust the settings and see the difference.

Andy214
post May 9 2012, 11:28 AM

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D800 HDR mode:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/nikon-d800-d800e/16

The HDR that I like, the natural and actual purpose of HDR, to achieve higher dynamic range.
Andy214
post May 15 2012, 12:30 PM

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QUOTE(jchue73 @ May 15 2012, 11:29 AM)
If you're using it on harsh environment like in sandy padang pasir, you need filters. For normal daily usage, you can live without it.
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Yesterday shot a vessel on pilot boat... The seawater splash onto my lens, it created some wierd mist than cannot be wipe off easily and there is white dots (salt?). Luckily there's filter, I guess these situation, one will be thankful the filter is on.

QUOTE(jchue73 @ May 15 2012, 11:29 AM)
Harsh bokeh and weird ghostings? You sure you're looking at pics from the 35mm f/1.4 and not from the 50mm f/1.4?
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I believe he's referring to the 35mm f/1.8G DX, hehe
Andy214
post May 18 2012, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(mmohdnor @ May 18 2012, 09:27 PM)
been shooting raw for over a yr now ... but i notice the red, pink, orange color is always difficult to get right with D3100 ... i had to spent lots of time tweaking the red/pink/orange tones in LR ... any tips? is it because the dynamic range of the D3100 sensor not good? ... the reds is like saturated when imported to LR.
*i normally import with zero/no preset

i see many ppl get this red tones pretty consistent and lovely always ...very envy liao tongue.gif
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Under lightroom, when you import, by default it should be using "Adobe Standard" profile; try changing this to "Camera Standard" or other and see which is your preference.
Andy214
post May 19 2012, 04:11 PM

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QUOTE(mmohdnor @ May 19 2012, 12:53 AM)
D3100 has very little support in lightroom ... no live view tethering or camera control either  sad.gif
hmm ..let me see ... i'll try it out ...but so far, i did try with no preset applied (e.g: none) during import.  hmm.gif
ahh..i forgot to mention, this problem happens during my product shoots in my mini studio ... e.g: table/tent shoots with lights and flash. outdoor is a little bit better, but still im not always happy about the red tones once i import into lightroom. sad.gif

but i do read in some other posts/forums saying that nikon always like to saturate red colors/tones ... is it true?
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Not preset, but Color Profile. By default, it should be using "Adobe Standard"; You can change to "Camera Standard" you will see changes in the colors, then there's "Camera Portrait" and other profiles such as "Camera Landscape", "Camera Vivid", etc.

Different WB also can alter the appearance of the color.


Added on May 19, 2012, 4:12 pm
QUOTE(shinchan^^ @ May 19 2012, 09:57 AM)
hoi CY, i thought u r Nonac user now!
y r u still here?
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CY become Nonac? I thought he have D700 and eye-ing on D800?


This post has been edited by Andy214: May 19 2012, 04:12 PM
Andy214
post May 19 2012, 04:25 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ May 19 2012, 04:15 PM)
Oh, I actually jumped ship just for shinchan. 5D3 + 24-105L ftw~! D800 no good  cool.gif

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Really jump or joking? LoL
Andy214
post May 19 2012, 10:56 PM

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QUOTE(mmohdnor @ May 19 2012, 05:09 PM)
oo ok .. u mean under develop module > camera calibration > adobe standard and such ... ok will try that ... thanks
btw, does taking a picture in raw affected by in-camera's D-lighting? ... should I turn on or off while shooting? ...my thinking is that shooting in raw 'ignores' any setting in camera.  blush.gif
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Should be yes (unless Nikon applied it into the RAW file captured), RAW will ignore those settings.
Basically, when you capture JPEG it's it's processed by the camera based on the profile and settings you choose (e.g. Standard, Landscape, Portrait, Vivid, etc and whatever tweaks you applied). When take RAW, you can still apply those profile later with ViewNX or CaptureNX or if your camera have in-camera raw processing feature, you can then apply different profile to get different results.

With RAW file, it's like RAW meat and you can cook it to your preference.
With camera processed jpeg, it's like you bought the raw meat which already pre-cook inside the oven with 'preset' settings and ready to eat. So, if it's not to your liking, you can further add your flavorings, etc. but limited to what you can do.


Andy214
post May 20 2012, 10:53 AM

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QUOTE(mmohdnor @ May 20 2012, 02:39 AM)
Yup I do understand that. Just that why the reds is not good enough or close to what I see on camera at least. I only use LR so far, tried ViewNX and CaptureNX ..but I dun like the tools in it ..hehe.
Maybe it is due to my cheapo light bulbs that I use for my mini studio (I shoot in light tent), plus the Flash (sometimes YN-560 or Nissin Di622MII). For the bulbs, I use 3 Osram/Philips 24W CFL's (125W equivalent), one softbox and lastly however the room is 'slightly' pink color (lit by cool white fluorescent bulb on ceiling).
Maybe I should experiment with with my X-rite Color Checker Passport and see where did I do wrong. Some product shoots, I'm lazy to shoot the Color Checker card, but then the red tones always take up my time during editing. laugh.gif
Thanks Andy.

Add on : Oo btw, most of the time, my pictures are developed in 'Adobe Standard' under the Develop Module > Camera Calibration section.
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No problem bro, just sharing what I know and experience. Hope it can help you.

Try use 'Camera Standard' profile and see. If not wrong 'Adobe Standard' has more saturated colors. From what I've experience which makes me notice last time was the black dress under yellow lighting, I just can't get the dress color correctly as black-black until I change the profile to 'Camera Standard'.

Also, tweak around the WB, it may affect the appearance too, blacks levels, contrast, fill light, recover, clarity all can also alter the appearance of the color. Recovery can bring down the saturation or recover/make it more dull or take away some color tint (e.g. if you're shooting portrait, you may notice the skin color change, even clothes, etc)


QUOTE(amduser @ May 20 2012, 07:45 AM)
f22 look soft? everything should be sharp at f22 right? hmm.gif

i also shot a lot during GRA, around 500 pics, i filter on spot with this in mind

divider/cone covered body - delete on spot

out of focus - delete on spot

less panning effect - delete on spot

not dramatic - delete on spot

part of the car cropped/out of frame - delete on spot

that left me few hundreds pictures to choose the best one when i get back to my pc, that's what i do la for this kind of event
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http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorial...ffraction.shtml
Andy214
post May 24 2012, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(MrAkay @ May 23 2012, 09:38 PM)
D800 is that good?I retract my statement then and  I wish I could try it out myself now just to see the difference.
And I'm just starting to use raw, a lot to learn still in the end
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You can check out the detailed reviews ; Many people done it, it's truly remarkable, it's able to preserve the details very well, sharp (not smudgy or muddy even at extreme ISO). Noise is better than smudge/soft/muddy details.

You can check out YouTube DigitalRevCom video they compare D800 VS 5D Mk3, at high ISO, you can see how well the D800 maintain it's detail and still sharp, plus that's at 36MP, it's truly amazing.
You can also check out TheCameraStoreTV, they did few video on D800, got one shooting portrait, the pro photog feature used to use a 5D Mk2, but he switch to Nikon due to 5D Mk2 performance; He's impressed with 5D Mk3 and actually prefers it over D800, but in the video you can see how well D800 maintain the details and sharpness at very high ISO. Another video is another feature photog who shoots horse event indoors, you can see how much he loves the Canon, this video D800 didn't do really well due to the slower FPS mainly and the poorer JPEG processing (which JCHue mentioned as well). There's also 2 more video which it goes against the Medium Format camera...

Nikon was able to produce D800 with whopping 36MP at still manage to have outstanding Noise Handling, Detail Preservation, Sharpness and Dynamic Range. It's really something different, it's just too bad it cannot have faster FPS even shooting at lower resolution? Or even DX mode?


QUOTE(bUGG @ May 23 2012, 09:44 PM)
Slightly better ISO?  shakehead.gif  for me, I don't see a difference. But thats me lah...
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Very minimal, but when you resample the D4 16MP down to 12MP, you can see more difference. Got one site done testing and the D4 does produce much better overall image.

Andy214
post May 25 2012, 09:41 AM

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QUOTE(jchue73 @ May 24 2012, 05:35 PM)
D800 : 36 x 4fps = 144 MP/s

D4 : 16 x 10fps = 160 MP/s

If you look at the pixels per second that the D800 pushes, it's quite high even though fps is low compared to the D4. But you're right that in DX 1.5x or 1.2x crop mode mode, the fps could be higher especially with battery grip. Theoretically, the D800 should be able to shoot at 9fps or even 10fps in 15MP DX mode (15 x 9 = 135 MP/s) but instead Nikon gives us a maximum of 6fps only with optional battery grip plus optional AA or EN-EL18 batteries.  sad.gif
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Yup, maybe they want to differentiate (and/or protect the different lineup/range). Many features that are software controlled but they didn't want to include it (not just talking about this model).

Anyway, even in normal/FX mode, suppose if we choose to shoot at lower resolution, it should be able to achieve higher FPS too right? Or is it because it's still utilizing the full 36MP sensor size during exposure unlike DX mode which only utilize part of the sensor? Not really clear about how this works.
Andy214
post May 28 2012, 04:56 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ May 28 2012, 04:28 PM)
ya...but group photo i m not sure, need ask other sifu in this thread.

travel (landscape) and portrait wise i guess it good to use. hmm.gif
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To get more DOF, can stop down the aperture of the lens.

The main problem when shooting group is, not wide enough and need to step back and step back and "bump", you hit the wall or someone, etc. Depend how many person you want to capture, full body, half body, etc? If there is enough space, you can even use telephoto to shoot group from far, it gives tighter shot and feel and the people on the side still maintain their shape, lol.


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