Bro KK,

tarak ham yu ler...all shared for dinner....the rest kept in another fishoes place for the next coming dinner in KL...

KK, taiwan stuff got stock liao?? i thought you said no longer available?

Thanks Bro KK for the introduction.

Bro Outsider,
Me in between salt and freshwater. But if fresh water, preferably it's Toman. Dont mind trekking in and water level to my chest to do a little casting.. Also, i'm a lure player, dont really fancy baits..

Bro QD,
Welcome! I have fished in Tasik Ampang too(the one beside the MRR2 hway) Landed a 3~4 kg toman there using GT poppers.

I was told that to access Klang Gate, we have to hike about 45mins ~1hr? Would you bring us there?

there was a method.

Once you fished up the toman...quickly wrap with wet newspaper and place in a big bucket(to ensure that the body dont go bengkok)

then can bring home liao...

if you ask me personally, do like what bro Voon just said lor...CPR!

Catch Picture & Release.

heard got GT wor~

now waiting for report from bro QiW lor

SeR,

Me lure too...do page if you're going somewhere naturale.

Bro Q, link the picture here la...then everyone get to see..

was across at the condo side..

earlier was at a secret spot but around puchong too...sorry cant disclose the name, cos it's not my spot

instead, caught some "hoong choy san" chiclid... took home and bela..hhahahahah

Bro Q,
Kasi post the pics here ler...

haha...the lures are not meant for fish la....it's meant for anglers...muahahahahha

RHA is quite a tackle shop cos it's not commercialised...it's more to a tackle-shop-that-assist/help-the-angler-to-catch-more-fish type

Bro Apad, i'm more to a hunter but catch and release using lures...

Bro Ser, let's arrange out a trip to go hunting.. you were saying the ulu kelang area?

Guys, i'm in the midst of arranging a trip tp P.Jarak. It's solely meant for POPPING and little jigging. However you can also do bottom when the rest of the anglers is doing popping. The cost for the boat is about rm150/pax and the lodging is RM50 for a room that can fit 4 pax/ The room rate is extremely cheap where the resort only caters for the members who parked their boat there

Target fish is GT and sailfish on popper. The jigging will be GT, queen and kings and grouper.

Anyone interested? Please raise your hands..

BTW bro KK,

the rod is completed!

waiting for the epox to dry up then i will test the rod and then pass to you..

can it lift 10kg without breaking?

Bro SeR,
If you want megabass spec also can do....it's just the money matter

Bro KK,
I've placed the guides according to the curve of the rod. I was using 10kg dumbell to hold the curve, but not lifting the 10kg dumbell.

Bro Q,
Your trip ma..you should post ma....

good article to read about.
- testing the rod till they break(with pics)
- right way to handle your rod to prevent breaking
- handling at certain part of the rod will increase the power of the rod, but sacrifice on the back bone and butt. Places where the rod can break
- the right degree to fight the fish.
- taking care of your rod.
- indirectly, on how to choose your rod


Give Me a Break! Fishing Editor John Merwin Tortures Seven Rods Until They Snap

The Rods
So no fishing rod manufacturer would have a chance to surreptitiously soup up a test version, I picked out my "victims" from retail outlets, paying between $28 and $80 for the kinds of midpriced models most people use most of the time. All were 6 or 6½ feet long and one piece, so I didn't have to deal with ferrule-strength issues. To make the group comparable according to factory specs, I chose medium- to heavy-power rods, the kind commonly used in largemouth bass fishing, rated for lines testing to as much as 17 or 20 pounds.

The Results
The breaking points of supposedly comparable rods varied widely, from a low of 22.4 pounds to a high of 44.6 pounds. The one rod that I was unable to send to a premature death-a Shakespeare Ugly Stik-carried an incredible 55-pound load without snapping (I ran out of weights at that point and gave up). Notably, strength was not related to suggested retail price; the Ugly Stik was the least expensive fishing rod I tested.

Varied test results aside, these are (or were) all perfectly good fishing rods. For one thing, any monofilament line commonly used with any of them would break long before the rod did, and it's even more likely that the hooks would either straighten out or pull free from a big fish. And strength isn't the only consideration when you're choosing a rod; other attributes such as overall weight and action are important, too (a broomstick would likely have been stronger than any rod I tested). Mostly, I was surprised by the loads all of these rods could carry. I had expected much less. But I now know the type of stress I can put to bear in certain angling situations, such as fighting a trophy gamefish or hauling back hard to get free of a snag.

The Test: What It Takes to Snap a Rod
I built a fixture to clamp the rod grips rigidly at a 45-degree angle above horizontal. This is about the same angle at which I'd hold a rod to fight a big fish. I strung each rod with parachute cord, tying one end off at the reel seat, and the other to a bucket a few inches from the rod tip.

By my side I had a pile of assorted lead ingots (for molding sinkers and jigs), and I dropped them in the bucket, one at a time, putting a bend in the rod that grew deeper with every step. Adding each weight was like tickling a dragon's tail, and I found myself wincing until, finally, KA-POW!-the butt would snap. This was great fun. It was also dangerous, so don't try it at home. Then I weighed the bucket and its contents to determine what weight caused the rod to break.

What breaks a rod



* High Sticking: Rods are designed so that the lower, larger-diameter section can support severe stresses. If a rod under strain is held too close to vertical, the butt can't bend properly and the force is consequently applied near the middle, which is not as tough. Many rods meet their ends this way, especially high-end fly rods that have thin-walled blanks. When you're pulling hard, always keep the rod at less than 60 degrees above horizontal.

* Split Shotting: Though they seem tough, graphite rods are in some ways very fragile. Accidentally whacking the rod against a boat gunwale or allowing split shot to hit the tip while you're casting can create small fractures in the graphite. Hours or weeks later, when you're hauling in a monster, the rod will likely snap at that old impact point.

* Superline Spooling: Sometimes, fine-diameter superlines (gel-spun polyethylene) are stronger than the rods they're paired with. Fifty-pound-test superbraid on a medium-heavy spinning rod is one example. Unless your reel's drag is set to slip slightly on a hard strike-thereby providing a protective cushion-there's a fair chance your rod will wind up in pieces.

* High-Handing: Sliding your hand up the rod to gain more leverage in a fish fight allows you to exert more force, but you're also preventing the butt from bending the way it's supposed to. Chances are the rod will snap in the middle in this situation.

The rods that the editor uses.



Shakespeare
Ugly Stiks have been among the world's bestselling rods since they were first introduced in 1976. Built of a graphite-fiberglass mix, they are unbelievably strong and tend to be heavier and use lower-end components than premium all-graphite rods. If sheer pulling power is your primary concern, this is your rod. shakespeare-fishing.com

Rod Tested: Shakespeare
Model: Ugly Stik SPL1100
Price: $28
Length (ft.): 6
Lure Rating (oz.): ¼ - ¾
Line Rating (lb.-test): 8 - 20
Break Strenght (lb. deadlifted): 55 (unbroken)



Shimano
My heavy-duty Clarus spinning rod was a cross between a plow horse and a racehorse: unusually strong in the butt for a graphite rod, yet lightweight and trimmed out with top-of-the-line hardware and a full-cork grip. shimano.com

Rod Tested: Shimano
Model: Clarus CSS66MH
Price: $60
Length (ft.): 6½
Lure Rating (oz.): ¼ - ¾
Line Rating (lb.-test): 8 - 17
Break Strenght (lb. deadlifted): 44.6



Browning
With first-class components and based on a medium-stiff graphite fiber, the powerful Medallion GT is an exceptional value at $50. browning.com

Rod Tested: Browning
Model: Medallion GT MD66MHS
Price: $50
Length (ft.): 6½
Lure Rating (oz.): ¼ - 5/8
Line Rating (lb.-test): 6 - 17
Break Strenght (lb. deadlifted): 39.5



Bass Pro
This Bionic Blade spinning rod uses a higher-modulus graphite than most of the others tested and has a reinforced butt section. Notably, its butt cap is threaded to accept balance weights, a worthwhile feature. basspro.com

Rod Tested: Bass Pro
Model: Bionic Blade BNC60MHS
Price: $60
Length (ft.): 6
Lure Rating (oz.): ¼ - 5/8
Line Rating (lb.-test): 6 - 17
Break Strenght (lb. deadlifted): 31.7



Cabela's
The Fish Eagle II graphite spinning rod is the most nicely finished of the bunch, with an attractive green blank topped by premium guides and a full-cork grip. cabelas.com

Rod Tested: Cabela's
Model: Fish Eagle II GS665
Price: $80
Length (ft.): 6½
Lure Rating (oz.): 3/8 - 1
Line Rating (lb.-test): 8 - 20
Break Strenght (lb. deadlifted): 30.6



Berkley
The Lightning Rod ProLite graphite spinning rod has an unusual Qwik-Lok reel seat that slides and locks in place to hold the reel. www.berkley-fishing.com

Rod Tested: Berkley
Model: Lightning Rod ProLite LPLS601MH
Price: $50
Length (ft.): 6
Lure Rating (oz.): ¼ - 1
Line Rating (lb.-test): 8 - 17
Break Strenght (lb. deadlifted): 23.1



Falcon
The rod I tested is part of the company's Original series, which features 100 percent graphite construction. The medium-heavy-power model feels light in the hand relative to its strength, which enhances sensitivity in fishing. falconrods.com

Rod Tested: Falcon
Model: FS-5-166
Price: $70
Length (ft.): 6½
Lure Rating (oz.): ¼ - 5/8
Line Rating (lb.-test): 10 - 17
Break Strenght (lb. deadlifted): 22.4

also, found a good article with illustration on tips and tricks for lure fishing

mostly on soft plastic

http://www.fishing.net.my/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=10124

haha...not that nothing to do...just that i come across this article and would like to share it

Bro Ser, It applies to BC or spinning set. It's more to the technique to intice more strikes..

Bro Voon,
thought you gonna pop by my place so that i can show you?? and at the same time, to collect your rod?

WD40 sure la rosak...

but what did you use to lube?

engine oil??

where you lube lar??

no rosak la... but performance drop ler

Bro SeR, i was thinking the same as well where the oil sip into the drag sys.

For everyone's benefit who intend to service themselves...

1: Bearings : Oil
2: Gearings : Grease.

That's is the general rule of the thumb

However, it varies of the grade of oil and grease to be used. Some angler prefer thick oil, some prefer thin oil, some prefer non-sticking grade of grease, some the opposite..

Agree with you bro Nicotine..

usually i service my reels after 3~5 trip on the way that i use my reel, i would not consider it's hardcore, but easily 1000~2000 times of casting...and not forgetting the number of cranking done

so the main gear with the pinion gear might have some wear and tear..one of the reason why i service quire frequent, cos the habuk from the friction between main gear and pinion gear..