Hi Tomjason.

My condolences to you n your family.

It is very informative knowledge you had shared with us.

I am also in the middle renovating my house.

I have a few question.

1) Do you think it is adequate to use Y16 bar to extend the car porch as in the picture below. My contractor use Y16 and we have remove the center column so we can get wide span free column to my car porch.


2) What shoould i do for the discharge sewage pipe which is close to the manhole wall (the very left pipe). I did ask the contractor to hack more to the wall so that the flow of the sewage are not block by the wall. What say u.





3) In addition, when the contractor lay the sewage pipe, at the bend/corner they not construct a manhole due to reason that my perimeter drain will cross at the junction. they use the 45degree bend. as shown below (the bend has been covered with earth).



4) What do you think about this plaster ceiling support. is it adequate i mean in term of spacing?


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please pm me the formula, thanks.

Hi bro. Can you PM me the formula too. Cheers

below is my answer:


1. Question 1)

For this, Y16 is sufficient if you do not want to have centre column, ip possible use Y16 (BS). Secondly , since you don’t have centre pillar,it is very important the size of the beam to carry the weight. Min is more than 1 feet..1 ½ feet for centre column is sufficient. The bigger the better. From the picture, I can say pass. Pls ensure the new beam is connect to the existing beam properly.

My suggestion is to have the angle beam is the best as my picture below red color (hope you understand)






2. Second Question

For normal sewage man hole is 18x24 inches, this because normal ready man steel cover is 18x24…that why ur contractor do not want to make the main hole bigger……your contractor has made mistake cause the 2 pairs were too much a part. From the picture, I don’t give pass to the second pair of the pipe..sure sangkut…
Since it is already nearly completed, what you can do is, to place angle / corner clay drain (clay drain have corner and straight). Below is my suggestion:






3. 3rd question:


Your contractor has made mistake, as my previous post, corner advisable to have main hole. It become worst if the pipe share with sink waste…if clog at the corner/bend, how are you going to clear the clog. Normally clog happened at the bend or corner of the pipe. If you can answer my question then, I will give you pass mark.


4. Question:

As in my previous post , advisable the gap is about 18 inches, the less is the better, cause plaster ceiling is heavy.

This post has been edited by tomjason: Nov 14 2013, 10:51 PM

1. Question 1)

For this, Y16 is sufficient if you do not want to have centre column, ip possible use Y16 (BS). Secondly , since you don’t have centre pillar,it is very important the size of the beam to carry the weight. Min is more than 1 feet..1 ½ feet for centre column is sufficient. The bigger the better. From the picture, I can say pass. Pls ensure the new beam is connect to the existing beam properly.

My suggestion is to have the angle beam is the best as my picture below red color (hope you understand)

Yes sir, the new rebar are extended 2 feet inside the original beam. Further the original beam are also deepen (add additional 2 bottom bar

Attached Image

2. Second Question

For normal sewage man hole is 18x24 inches, this because normal ready man steel cover is 18x24…that why ur contractor do not want to make the main hole bigger……your contractor has made mistake cause the 2 pairs were too much a part. From the picture, I don’t give pass to the second pair of the pipe..sure sangkut…
Since it is already nearly completed, what you can do is, to place angle / corner clay drain (clay drain have corner and straight). Below is my suggestion:

Attached Image

Meaning ask the contractor to install 45 degree bend at the tip of the pipe?


3. 3rd question:


Your contractor has made mistake, as my previous post, corner advisable to have main hole. It become worst if the pipe share with sink waste…if clog at the corner/bend, how are you going to clear the clog. Normally clog happened at the bend or corner of the pipe. If you can answer my question then, I will give you pass mark.

Agree with u. luckily there is no sink wast pass thru this waste pipe. Only afraid if in future the sh*t inside stuck at the bend, then it will be my major headache. any idea how to do control damage?


4. Question:

As in my previous post , advisable the gap is about 18 inches, the less is the better, cause plaster ceiling is heavy.

Plaster ceiling completed. too bad i nt find ur post earlier. huhu..


Thank you for ur guidance.

This post has been edited by aquaria87: Nov 14 2013, 10:55 PM

BTW boss, can u PM me the formula tq

below is the clay drainage (for main hole)...hope you understand...





from your picture..there is an ample space to built mainhole..i suppose your contractor do not want to do it since already completed...hopefully no clog since no sink waste....

Bro Tomjason, this is the end result for the manhole




Reason why the contractor not built the manhole due to this perimeter drain (which i think they can built it up furhter. Hope that the new manhole near the bend could help me if the bend get clog in the future..

(THIS NEW MANHOLE WILL BE CONNECTED TO THE EXISTING MANHOLE)

hi bro,

from your picture..for me your main hole still no pass...pls follow my suggestion to pass....

by the way i saw your remark in :

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3030656

who are u really?..r u contractor?.....

Tomjason, If I may, would like to have that secret formula too. I will start my reno next month. Thank you in advance

Nope.. i am internal auditor (by profession)... my ex uitm colleague carry out my house renovation and based on my 5 years exp as Quantity surveyor (Practially know abt dollar and cents and contract rather than building technology - which more on theory rather than practical). But never had on site exprnce for small reno/house works... working for firm handling high rise building and shopping complex.. huhu..

Now as currently doing my own renovation which i monitor everyday, i hv practically learn a lot on trick and tweak of small construction works which is far from the one taught in lecture hall and even practice in high rise/big project... feel very noobies...


BTW TQ for your knowledge.. i am stilll monitor the progress of the works.

This post has been edited by aquaria87: Nov 15 2013, 08:49 PM

Please pm me as well. I would be starting renovation soon. Thank you...

hi tomjason, could you PM me the secret formula. thank you. your information have been helpful

Hi bro...can pm me the formula....love diy too and avoid main contractor. BTW, nice reno you did.

TQ

Hi sir,

About to begin my reno journey

Please pm me the secret formula as well

Thanks for sharing

Anyone can PM me the formula to work out the budget? Thanks. Really headache...

Dear Tomjason,

I found your information very useful.I would be extremely happy if you could calculate how much it would cost to renovate my wet kitchen.It is double storey endlot. I intend to hack the back wall and extend the wet kitchen till the end. The yard need to level as it is 8 inches below the wet kitchen. I also need to move the back door to the back of the new wet kitchen and install another door at the side. The side wall need to be tiled until the ceiling. A contractor has quoted RM 30K to do these renovation.. What is your opinion?
Thanking you for your time.

This post has been edited by vjeyamahla: Nov 27 2013, 12:40 PM


Attached File(s)
 Groundfloor_layout.doc ( 681k ) Number of downloads: 82

can anyone share the TJ formula with me? 10q

Just want to ask piling beside terraced double storey. I want to extend my double storey terraced house (corner lot) Engineer proposed to piling ask foundation for column, i just want to know if we piling beside my house, will it affected other house? Anyone piling beside terrace house before? Thank you.

can pm me your formula please? thanks