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 Satria's Owners thread V24, Fookers thread

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GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 10 2011, 11:25 PM

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threadinfestedbyhonda.exe
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 11 2011, 08:44 AM

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QUOTE(maakosu @ Dec 11 2011, 12:07 AM)
I see, Camber kit eh. Alright then we shall talk more about those part when i'm ready to change it biggrin.gif

ABS... I see... No wonder my brother ask me to go for GAB. When i search in Mudah and Lelong, it's everywhere. At first I thought it was china replica stuff.  sweat.gif 
Btw, i don't really get it whats the different type in an ABS? I mean like HR, HA, MONOTUBE and etc... ?
@Shinjite,

Hey bro. Peace!  icon_rolleyes.gif
Haha hi bro. Nice to know u in FORUM, may be we have chance to meet during Dyno  biggrin.gif
*
Take some time to learn more about it. In short, monotube > twintube in terms of maintaining performance. I don't really recommend you to go for adjustable absorbers of any kind, they're not comfortable at all and not suited for Malaysian roads (you know la Malaysian road how good!). Just stick to stock or lowered sport abs + sport springs.


Added on December 11, 2011, 8:45 amBut depend on your spring and damper setup, you can still make it right with the right setting. Basically, a heavier car will need a higher rate of both and a lighter car will need a lower rate.

A light car with stiff springs/dampers == hell.

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Dec 11 2011, 08:45 AM
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 11 2011, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(maddriver @ Dec 11 2011, 11:59 AM)
that's when the hokkien sayings come into play.......
*
Can you spell it out here? What "tua liap"?
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 12 2011, 09:01 AM

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Hi guys,

I tried a bottle of Abro Octane Booster yesterday. Cost me RM 15.50 from Ace Hardware, didn't have much expectation for it. Poured into an almost full tank yesterday. Wow, I'm impressed with the product, I almost felt that all the knocking from my car is gone, I tried to reproduce the knock on my car but most of the time I don't hear the knock anymore. To say it remove 100% of my car knock is ridiculous, but I'll say it have reduced about 65-70% of knocking in my car.

I've tried STP's version (old bottle, new version one is with smaller bottles) several times before and I think it didn't work despite costing some 33% more being at RM 20+.

Yeah, I know maddriver have this but I didn't really think such thing would help, I was just trying my luck yesterday when I had to go Ace Hardware to buy some stuffs.

So the high compression guys, stock this stuff!

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Dec 12 2011, 09:02 AM
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 12 2011, 03:36 PM

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QUOTE(AceCombat @ Dec 12 2011, 10:00 AM)
Ace Hardware laugh.gif

Anyway, I've a very noob question to ask.
Just wonder, whether changing an oversized throttle body and aftermarket intake manifold need to get a piggyback to retune the engine? Or is it fine to use back the stock ECU?
*
Best to retune it, that's why they say you always do the management last.
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 12 2011, 06:58 PM

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A graph like an earthquake map how to read? By the way, did they play with the ignition setting (through the distributor maybe?) during the dyno tune?

Was there any knocking now that you drive your car?
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 12 2011, 07:23 PM

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QUOTE(mADmAN @ Dec 12 2011, 07:05 PM)
yeah they tried retarding and advancing the distributor...

if retard... top end suffers.. if advance...low end suffers due to no ignition control

so he retarded it for the sake of cruising
and no more knocking
*
Generally, you could squeeze a few more drops of hp with ignition control, in fact, a management without ignition control, as well don't use it. The most gain will come from advancing "kao kao" subject to your engine knock resistance.
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 14 2011, 10:12 AM

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QUOTE(Daniel John @ Dec 13 2011, 12:59 PM)
a fren of mine just installed but didnt get proper tuning from rs auto..he is running too rich..
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Ask him to go back and shoot the tuner!
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 14 2011, 01:09 PM

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Ace,

Out of the few, I would say get a S90 tb, they cost like RM 350-400 or if you don't mind a used one, even cheaper.
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 14 2011, 01:12 PM

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QUOTE(Daniel John @ Dec 14 2011, 11:38 AM)
he already shoot..n dun think after being shoot they will do it better cos they already got the chance in the 1st place..problem prob is tat another tuner didnt give confirmation can sort it out or not..but luckily works got their panel workshop to handle..will keep u updated on this matter..

This EMS use by many campro already n also participant from local track racing gives a good review too..so dun think tat the product is bs..
*
Actually, I don't know what's the problem with your friend's car, best is to ask him to join the dyno session organized by Shinjite and print out the AFR graph along. Only with dyno or a wideband meter we can decide on that. Also a little rich is ok as long as its not too bad.
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 14 2011, 09:07 PM

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QUOTE(AceCombat @ Dec 14 2011, 04:24 PM)
Well, I'm using OEM radiator taken out from an Evo 3, it might be enough but the radiator is not nice to see cry.gif black black satu ketul~~
The problem is, can i just remain to use my stock ECU when I upgraded my intake manifold and TB? as GFEXTREME told me it is better to retune but I just wish to stick to ym stock ECU.
Yup, throttle body, but is it ok to stick with stock intake manifold? Or best to change with the intake manifold?
Anyway, I see my stock intake manifold had a long runner, any pro and cons when i switch to aftermarket intake manifold like skunk2 or edelbrock one?Because they have very very very short runner.
*
If got money then change all skali la! wink.gif


Added on December 14, 2011, 9:08 pmYou can benefit from a mod without retuning, but you probably won't realize its full potential, thats all.

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Dec 14 2011, 09:08 PM
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 15 2011, 02:01 PM

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Ace,

Get Emanage with ignition harness. Without ignition control, you don't really gain much. How much can an optimal afr gain you compared to a lean or rich one? What matters is the ignition advance.

Even a high comp pistons but if your engine can't take it, you'll need to retard the ignition which results in reduced dynamic compression, so those cars which have piggyback, please go send your car to tune and advance your ignition right to the point just before it knocks. That's where all the gains from a management comes from.


Added on December 15, 2011, 2:03 pmSo for ppl like shin, who regretted using 4g92p pistons, play la with the ignition and tuning. The end effect is the same.

My 2 cents!

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Dec 15 2011, 02:03 PM
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 15 2011, 02:06 PM

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madman,

Since you're close to 190 whp already with SAFC (which is err...), 200 whp is no problem with better management.

Please treat us all for dinner when you reach 200 whp! Tqvm!
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 15 2011, 02:13 PM

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Like this then the max your car will go is 199 whp!
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 15 2011, 03:22 PM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Dec 15 2011, 02:43 PM)
But I seriously doubt tuning ignition alone will gain another 15whp easily
But definitely for sure the response will be way way better
GFX, that is not considered tuning
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Why is it not considered? In emanage, there is ignition control right?


Added on December 15, 2011, 3:26 pmPpl usually say "my car tuned to RON 95", or "tuned to RON97".
If ignition control is not part of tuning, then why the different tuning according to different fuel?
I say ignition control is what matters most and should be an integral part of any good tuning.
Just like how SAFC is not good in this case...

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Dec 15 2011, 03:26 PM
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 15 2011, 03:50 PM

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QUOTE(shinjite @ Dec 15 2011, 03:32 PM)
It is not about the capabilities of the management, it is the method used (highlighted) which is wrong. Advancing ignition timing till before it knocks doesn't mean is the optimal or generates power as different engines have different loads. Even gearing plays a role on an engine load even at low rpms (highest gear)

So if for example, advancing 8 degrees ignition and you net xxx amount of power and no knocking, then you advance further and gained nothing and still no knocking then you retard till about 4-5 degrees and still get the same amount of power. Why do you need to have a more advance ignition when the engine doesn't produce any more power?

You can consult Thomas from GT Auto, he will explain more in detail which makes lots of sense smile.gif
*
Advancing ignition timing till before it knocks doesn't mean is the optimal or generates power as different engines have different loads.
The definition of optimal is very subjective, for one person very good drivability is optimal, while for another, the peak power generated drom the dyno is what optimal settings is all about. And yeah, different engines have different loads, but we're saying tuning for a car, why do we have to compare different engines?

Even gearing plays a role on an engine load even at low rpms (highest gear)
Yeah, gearing plays a role, but its an integral part of the car right? We're not choosing different gearbox also... in other words, for one car with certain engine and certain gearbox, you tune that car.

So if for example, advancing 8 degrees ignition and you net xxx amount of power and no knocking, then you advance further and gained nothing and still no knocking then you retard till about 4-5 degrees and still get the same amount of power. Why do you need to have a more advance ignition when the engine doesn't produce any more power?
Stop lah when advancing don't gain you anything.
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 15 2011, 04:00 PM

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By the way, shinjite, I was making the assumption that ignition advance almost always gain you more power and the only back holding you back it the knocking and detonation.

I however have no hands on experience in dyno tuning before and don't know if advancing the ignition can cause power loss (or no gains). Can they?

In cam/valve timing, yes, you can shift the power band around with the SOHC head or change it (increase power or shift it) in the DOHC. But ignition timing? Isn't it almost always "the more the better" (to a point where your car starts knocking at least and also within the limits your distributor and management will allow).

This post has been edited by GEFORCEXTREME: Dec 15 2011, 04:13 PM
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 15 2011, 04:41 PM

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QUOTE(maddriver @ Dec 15 2011, 04:17 PM)
if u have a dyno to use, more does not necessarily mean better.......more means more fc...... but if u don't have a dyno to use, no choice.....
*
Ok, thanks bro!
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 15 2011, 09:46 PM

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I might go and watch (not participate) the dyno session.
GEFORCEXTREME
post Dec 16 2011, 01:39 PM

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Can do one, Malaysia boleh, but you must belanja minum teh lah, or kopi o kao.

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