Errr... Where are you guys seeing those prices? All I'm seeing are 500++ / 600++.

Where do I find the UD V1? Don't seem to find it anywhere on the website.

I mentioned this before. Looks nice alright but after a while of using, the bag got out of shape. What does this mean? Your lenses don't get padded and fitted nicely. Lenses now can move inside the bag. Oh, the one that I hate most is the shoulder strap is now spongeless.

This is not a messenger type of bag but a sling type. The longest side of the bag where the pocket is at 16" thereabouts. Should be able to put your umbrella at the side pocket where the tripod goes. It will come out a little.



Jump to 7:30.

Wah... What do you expect for the price? Blazing fast AF?

Yup, most of theit series but not their Airport series.

If you're transporting your expensive gears from one place to another, you will value a good bag that gives good protection and able to carry all your gears in one piece without any incident and in comfort too.

Reason for the slightly "warm" WB when using flash during daytime is because the camera switches to Flash WB when using flash. Flash WB by default is 5400K. I believe the Auto WB used is usually slightly cooler when used during daytime.

From what I can tell the things you mentioned above, your choice would be towards the 16-35mm f/4 VR. If you're just taking landscape pictures and not so much for architechture where straight lines must be straight,

Very hard to say... Should be better than your average PnS cameras.

I take it that those performances would be held indoors? That would mean low light. For low light, you need large aperture lenses like the f/2.8. Even then, sometimes it's not enough and you need to rely on camera's high ISO. I don't know if f/5.6 on the lens is going to cut it. When you want to freeze the motion of the subject etc, you need faster shutter speed. This is where big aperture and good high ISO cameras are useful.

If you're in the press, you would not care too much for protection. Insurance covers it.

The 17-35mm f/2.8 is still a nice lens. But sharpness wise, it's still behind the 16-35mm f/4 VR while the 14-24mm f/2.8 is still king.

I think you can only get the 17-35mm f/2.8 as 2nd hand. Yes, you will need to find a good copy because there are a lot of people complaining about the AF-S motor failing. If I'm not wrong, this lens was one of the first lenses to have the AF-S motor in it (perhaps it could be the 300mm f/4 or the 28-70mm f/2.8).

Phone different. You touch the screen everytime you use it. You don't touch the lens when you take pics.

If your phone has Gorilla glass, you should be fine.

Sometimes we like to think of things that are still within our reach...

Good suggestion. Well, some people would just love to get the latest and greatest. To each his own.

Yes, the D300s would be better for what you're going to use it for.

If like that, a pro 70-200mm f/2.8 with a D90 should also be no problems.

Have you gotten your Zeiss yet? Or did you end up with Nikon's?

Did you try asking Nikon Malaysia for confirmation?

Ok. But I'm confused... If you already made up your mind on buying a new local set, why post the question?

Any comparisons or samples to show?

I find my copy of my 24-70mm f/2.8 amongst the sharpest lens I have. I have several primes (24mm f/1.4, 35mm f/1.4, 85mm f/1.4 and 135mm f/2.0) and including the AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8 and I find that it's as good if not better wide open. Just that it's not a f/1.4 or f/2.0.

Sure no vignetting at wide open f/1.8? Surely there must be some. Even 35mm f/1.4 has vignetting on the D700.

Congrats. Finally after debating so long. Does your umbrella really fit in it?

Anyway, I thought you wanted something that does not attract attention but this thing says "please, come and get me ! "

No filter for the 14-24mm f/2.8. Anyway, why do you think the 14-24mm f/2.8 can do that the 16-35mm f/4 VR cannot?

The S730 worth that much for the sound is plays?

Errr... No offence. If I was in Korea or Japan and saw somebody with that bag like that, I would expect a person with a different gender carrying it.

This post has been edited by jchue73: Dec 25 2011, 06:35 PM

Yes.



Sorry, subjects were a little dusty.

This post has been edited by jchue73: Dec 27 2011, 09:25 AM

Errr... Andy214. Have you tried WITHOUT flash to see if it solves your problem?

Most ot the time when fog / smoke and different colours from stage backlighting, I don't use flash.

Congrats Agito. Next step is FX body.

This post has been edited by jchue73: Dec 29 2011, 05:28 PM

I just got myself a Think Tank Photo Speed Racer.



Left is SB-800 with case. Right is AF-S 80-200mm f/2.8 with hood reversed. Around the same size as 70-200mm f/2.8. Looks deceiving but in the midle can put the AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8 attached with the D700. Not shown because I'm using that combo to shoot the pic.

Can be worn as a slig bag or strapped around the waist or both for best support and if required for long periods of time.

Your 24-70mm f/2.8 has 15 glass elements in 11 groups. Vastly different than your friend's Tamron. The more elements in your lens, the more susceptible it is to flare.

There are a lot of factors that can create flare. Rule no. 1, Please do not use filter when shooting night scenes.

To extract the best performance out of the D70s, you need to shoot RAW.

Most of the time, you cannot tell the difference on image quality alone. But the difference will show in the speed of focus acquisition. The AF-S motor makes blinding speeds to acquire it's target.