Google around, mudah, masterbuy, etc. You can roughly see the average selling price for 2nd hand. But if many people are selling, then it's harder to sell.

70-300G will be hard to sell; Some people may not know about VR...

18-70mm kit you might need to wait for people who know, value and appreciate it. Can try post in those photography forums, like photomalaysia, shutterasia, etc. for more reach.

Mudah.my no need to register, just post; but it'll take up to 3 working days for them to verify and publish it.

What settings do you usually shoot?

If using smaller aperture with combination of low ISO, sure will utilize more flash power and if you're bouncing, it'll depend on the ceiling, etc.

I suppose these settings are mainly use for group photo? If you're using wider angle, I suppose you can try to maintain around f/4?

I think it depends on preference; If you prefer to use lower ISO, then you'll need to sacrifice more flash power provided you need to maintain the aperture and shutter speed. Those area that didn't receive enough light (dark areas), underexpose, may generate much more noise and muddy result.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Nov 30 2011, 05:11 PM

If you restrict the ISO and shooting at small aperture with restricted/limited shutter speed, then with i-TTL, the flash will try to compensate for the exposure and use more power. So, it depends on your preference and shooting style.

Depends on ballroom, and depends how one uses the flash and pointing the flash; bouncing with high ceiling, low ceiling, big/small ballroom, etc.

My situation is almost similar like yours too.

If you shoot way under-expose and in TTL mode, the flash will try to compensate for it, also depending on the environment, how you bounce (if you're bouncing), etc. On manual, you can choose to control or lower the power; That said, it really depends on your preference; Most people shoot with subject lit up while the environment is dim (not necessary totally dark, but dim with nice mood, etc), the settings used can be different with another.


I'm don't really like the diffuser somehow, prefer to use bounce card, better with demb flit-it bounce, bigger bounce car and more control.

TTL you can still control, use Flash Compensation for easy adjustment, can lower the power or increase the power.

So, do you happen to know if the rumors of the specs is true (or close)? Or is the pic true (or close)? The shutter button especially...

This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 6 2011, 01:03 PM

Thanks. It seems it goes off what most people expected or predicted, and also the surprising silver shutter button (hope that wasn't real, or was something different).

Anyway, guess we'll just have to see what's the outcome at the end.

Some shops charge extra. Some don't; Or sometimes they do sometimes they don't, depends on customer, or depends on what price they offer.
Usually for installment, they will say, follow RRP, some just charge a certain amount or %. Those larger retail shop usually have no such things as extra %, etc.
All really depends on the shop, the person dealing, and various factor.

700 have diffuser; but I never like the effect, too direct and harsh.

The foam thing, haha, I have a few, DIY. Got the idea from
http://www.abetterbouncecard.com

DEMB Flip-It gives more control of the direction and so on, and you can modify it with this foam thing to make bigger bounce card.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 8 2011, 05:58 PM

If you're shooting in studio or portraits where there is fix lighting/condition/etc, and you have the time to fine tune in camera, then it's less of an issue;
If you're shooting for an important event, e.g. weddings. I think it's not about trying to show professionalism, but it's more about having to be safe. Of course, nothing wrong with Jpeg only. It all depends on what type of quality you want to produce, how well you want to do, how you feel is good enough, how your client's demand, etc.

There's nothing wrong to shoot Jpeg or RAW, shooting RAW, you get to produce JPEG; But with Jpeg, you cannot get RAW. So, which to choose?

Sometimes, some people may try to tease and make people shoot jpeg so they don't learn or shoot raw; maybe they don't want the person to "climb" or "advances" or "learn"; Or sometimes you may see it as, they want the person to learn to get it right in camera first. It really depends how you see it, there's many ways to see certain things, but it doesn't mean shooting raw, you don't need to get it right in camera. (same applies for editing)
Why choose only 1? When you can shoot raw (or raw+jpeg), and still try to get it right in camera and have options to choose raw or jpeg output, edit or non-edit. It's all up to you, there's no rules that say you can only choose 1.



This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 13 2011, 05:51 PM

Don't just stop there; don't be binded by the rules and thoughts of others, explore and think outside the box. There's always room for improvement, learning and exploring.
No editing doesn't makes the person a better photographer or professional, nor editing makes anyone inferior, it's more like the thoughts of people who want to feel proud of themselves.

Everyone has different level of requirement, satisfaction, demand, etc. One may be happy with the results product, while another may seek to improve further or "not good enough".

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Added on December 13, 2011, 8:49 pmIt won't really go "empty", it will cut off the power when it's below certain level; Thus for handphone, you will notice you can still turn it on, but if you keep doing that, you're doing damage to the battery. Li-Ion is unlike the older battery which you need to use until low then only re-charge; for Li-Ion, you should keep it charge happy, you can charge it anytime and it won't over-charge, there is a cut off point. If it's full or above the cut off point, it won't charge even you plug in the charger. For handphone, you may see it says "battery full" when you try to charge even it's not.

I didn't know this when Li-Ion battery first introduce in handphone... I kept draining it and just right after 6 months, the battery went dead, the voltage dropped. Finally, read up and learned about Li-Ion...
You can also read about it, and how to keep battery performance tip top.


This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 13 2011, 08:49 PM

Whichever it is, it's each person preferences. Don't be confined or limited to something when we have options and flexibility. It doesn't mean choosing either way a person cannot be better. Most true professionals or expert can get it right and do everything perfectly in camera, but do you think they don't agree in doing editing or shooting raw?

Yes, Nikon has their own profile, so does other manufacturer. For lightroom, default colour profile is Adobe, you can change to Camera Standard, Camera Vivid, etc and see different colour, and you can also make further adjustments, it all depends on how you like to tweak to your liking and preferences; there's a lot of explore and learn/know. Even from your camera itself, choosing different profile will give your different colour output (e.g. portrait, standard, etc). If you want Nikon colour, there's Nikon Capture NX.

Anyway, it's all about preference; Even exposure, some prefer darker, some prefer brighter; which both have it's uniqueness, so how do you define RIGHT or WRONG? You may shoot with correct WB, but some people prefer the warmer colour (yellow lighting feel), again is it right or wrong? This is an art, not science, it's not 1 + 1=2.
BUT, if it's a good photo is a good photo, it's just how good to each person.
Given 100 photos to 100 people, not everyone may like the same photo, but there maybe one photo which more people choose.
Given 1 single photo edited with different exposure/style/colour/tone/etc to 100 people, not everyone may choose the same one, but there maybe one that most people prefer.

Look at froknowsphoto, see how many different editing can produce by different person given a raw file and how different people will like different result. With RAW, you have more flexibility of producing many different output for a given raw file.

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Added on December 13, 2011, 10:13 pmBefore digital era, if RAW is like Negative, then Jpeg is something like those Polaroid that produce/print picture right away.

That why I say depends on condition, if shooting for wedding/actions, etc. there maybe no time to adjust this and that, even shooting in manual is also not easy, even shooting in A/S/P mode, it doesn't mean it can be correct as well, the metering can still be fooled, in the same room, just changing different angle or moving slightly may affect the camera WB settings. I believe those who have experience it will understand what I'm talking about; if you're editing the raw file, you may notice a certain photo suddenly require major adjustment to the WB from the rest, it's just so happen that you're at the spot that may have produce warmer or cooler tones, even you're in the same room/place.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 13 2011, 10:13 PM

True, impress people and/or also prevent people from shooting raw and learning and exploring further (e.g. advance)

Well, not everyone is like this; Some people they simply just prefer jpeg as they don't want to spend time to edit raw files. The above statement applies mainly for those that want to show off or trying to keep people away from shooting raw.

It's famous, there're many people talk about usually in this 2:
1. Shoot right in jpeg mode, no need correction in raw. It makes them feel proud and satisfied.
2. No editing required, SOOC (straight out of camera); Like Jpeg VS Raw, there's also people who likes challenge or say about no editing required, getting it right in camera.

Above 2 points, somehow makes people think that it makes the person a professional or a better photographer and those that didn't (not cannot) is inferior.
As I said, why choose when you're not bounded/limited to choose only 1? It's not like, you can only shoot RAW or JPEG, you cannot do both? Does shooting raw means the person is inferior?
Similarly, does editing makes anyone inferior? It's all depends on the persons requirement, demand, satisfaction, etc.
In short, don't be binded by the rules or words people say, just enjoy and have fun.

Yup, no need to show or prove which is better, plus everyone has different preferences and taste; Just enjoy and have fun.

SB-700

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Added on December 16, 2011, 5:48 pmDepend what you want to do more, Macro?
Or normal + portrait? Indoor or Outdoor?
The aperture does make a lot of difference indoor or lowlight and the DOF.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 16 2011, 05:48 PM

50mm f/1.8G is better overall, plus it's FX lens. The only drawback is the range for indoor, it can be tight. Even 35mm, sometimes you may find it tight, especially if you want to shoot landscapes.
Using indoor shopping malls and shooting those christmas deco, 35mm will excel over 50mm due to the focal length, but if you have wider, even better.
For portraits and bokeh, you'll probably favor the 50mm, but doesn't meant thr 35mm can't do it.

In the end, whichever you choose, it's how you use the lens. Sometimes, I also use 35mm instead of the zoom especially when I need the large aperture.

If you took the 35mm or 50mm and you need extra macro capability, you can consider Raynox DCR-250 Close-Up filter.


Better to get the G version.

Not redundant cause 50mm f/1.8 will give you larger aperture, nice for portraits or when you need the larger aperture in low light or thin DOF. It all depends what you shoot, what effect you want, etc.

Got 35, no 50, my friend have 50 f/1.8D version. I prefer 35, more usable.
For portrait, I feel 50 on DX is like "not there yet" kind of feel; but the 50mm f/1.8G does seems very tempting with it's performance and value..... good for normal portraits.

If you don't really take portraits, the 35 should suit you more as if give you wider angle, but still may not be enough if you prefer wider. You can try out and determine it yourself.
But once you put on, you may/wiill eventually try to adjust and accommodate for the lens focal range, unless if you met situation where there is no more room, then you can't do much.

I guess it depends how picky you are with the "bokeh". For me, it's acceptable. For the price, it's a good lens with good performance. Usable wide open, in low light, you can use f/1.8 all the way and if the distance is far enough, you can still get a lot in focus; can still shoot landscape at f/1.8.

Example below is shot with 35mm f/1.8G @ f/1.8 handheld:


This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 19 2011, 03:35 PM

Previous case is Lens Cup
So this is DSLR Cigarette holder?