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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion Thread V13 !, Le D4 is awaiting you @ 6000 bucks only

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Andy214
post Dec 20 2011, 12:47 PM

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QUOTE(Calvin Seak @ Dec 20 2011, 10:33 AM)
by Accident! Lol...

Its about RM3.3k 999USD.. A nikon refurbished lens with 90days warranty.

It happened like this..

I bought it on Friday. My transaction got rejected. Suspicious purchase according to the bank..

I receive an email from adorama that it got rejected. The CS was really friendly and helped me through the process and told me i could cancel if i would want to. So I called up the bank and asked what happened and they ask me to remake the transaction. the 2nd time didnt work so I tried the 3rd time and after that All 3 transactions went through!

Adorama Didnt cancel the 1st and 2nd order as i Emailed to them because it was during the weekend..

There you have it I have 3 16-35 F4 lenses now.. I guess ill be returning to them with just shipping charges which is very minimal since the response isnt so good as you mentioned.

Btw celiuz what filter do you use? Is the hoya hd slim enough for it on your d700??

Thanks!
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Merry Christmas!!!!!

*hint* *hint* tongue.gif

On the first day of Christmas, Santa Calvin gave me to... tongue.gif
Andy214
post Dec 23 2011, 10:01 AM

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QUOTE(eugene88 @ Dec 22 2011, 09:54 PM)
I hope I will not regret getting a 35mm instead of a 40mm macro laugh.gif
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If you appreciate the aperture, then you won't regret; But if you want the macro and don't bother about the aperture, then you better got for macro.
With the 35mm, you can still put on the Raynox DCR-250 or close up filter to get some extra close-up capability.

Andy214
post Dec 23 2011, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(Everdying @ Dec 23 2011, 12:00 PM)
i might go there around 1-2pm...see the situation around there 1st.
if shitloads of cars everywhere outside, then im turning back tongue.gif
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That'll be crazy... Last week I went there during lunch time, skip my lunch, and some time allowance from company just to drop by there to collect my things. Crazy jam before entering the parking itself! It's a Thursday, not even Friday... When got in the parking, so many cars in the parking looking for parking, madness... I'm somemore in a rush, thought wanna park somewhere non-parking slot temporary as I just need to collect but also can't find, all parked... MV really crazy nowadays...
Andy214
post Dec 27 2011, 11:40 AM

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Need help:
Anybody knows how to shoot in fog/smoky area? Some event, the stage they put up a lot of smoke, if we try to bounce the flash, the light will be distributed and the subject will loose a lot of contrast and blacks, the colours will be washed out and image look flat too.
After recover, some photos will may still not be in good condition, e.g. like powder, loss of detail...

Will flash direct help?
I notice the photos posted by Nikon Malaysia, where they shoot from the stage, shooting the model's back, the photo seems suffer from same problem and the color seems washed out too, like aged photo (which some people like and adjust the hue).

What about those stage where they use strong pink, green, orange, red spotlight, some concentrated area of the stage will have these strong tint and the person face will be affected badly. If couple with the smokes, it's even worst.

If we shoot from far (e.g. telephoto), the photo will suffer more problem;.

What I can think of is:
1. Use more direct flash
2. Get closer to the subject

Is the above the solution? Or there is other advice(s)?
Please help and share share, thanks~


ADD ON:
By the way, the Flash is in TTL mode; Do I need to increase the power? Because I think the smoke will fool the Flash compensation resulting in less power as well.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Dec 27 2011, 11:52 AM
Andy214
post Dec 27 2011, 12:40 PM

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QUOTE(jchue73 @ Dec 27 2011, 12:29 PM)
Errr... Andy214. Have you tried WITHOUT flash to see if it solves your problem?

Most ot the time when fog / smoke and different colours from stage backlighting, I don't use flash.
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Thanks.

Tried, too dark, need to bump very high ISO, and the colourful changing spotlight will fool around with the Camera Auto WB. Seems Flash give better result.

The fog/smoke is white when it first came out thick from the ground still ok, when it spread, the area become like got haze, so imagine shooting in hazy area. I notice other photogs who shoot close up seems have more clear photo and the flash head is put on direct. For telephoto shots may have problem as my telephoto shots have more issues since the light is more distributed. Colourful spotlight is another issue; how do you guys shoot concert? But concert stage the background is all black? This is small stage with a colourful backdrop.

I read up on some landscape photography on hazy/foggy environment, seems they use polarizer to help reduce the haze effect, and also for night, they seems use longer exposure to get more detail of the subject. But for event, we need to capture the moment.
Andy214
post Dec 29 2011, 04:01 PM

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QUOTE(eugene88 @ Dec 29 2011, 03:38 PM)
Which one is better overally?
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55-300mm definitely.

1. Metal mount
2. Extra 100mm
3. Sharper at 200mm.
Overall seems have improvements. You can read the review of it.

Andy214
post Jan 3 2012, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(yfyap69 @ Jan 3 2012, 10:30 AM)
Need some advise on this. Planning to upgrade my kit lens to either 24-70 or 17-55. I'm using D7000 and most of the time I'm taking photo of my son. Which is a better option?
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Personal opinion and experience (no son, but daughter tongue.gif ):
Get a prime lens, 35mm f/1.8G DX or 50mm f/1.8G.
For f/2.8, the Tamron equivalent (non-VR) 17-50mm f/2.8 (for about RM1200 or less), it will do fine for your requirement. Unless you're using it for job or you have $$$, then go for the Nikkors.


Andy214
post Jan 3 2012, 11:36 AM

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QUOTE(seather @ Jan 3 2012, 11:15 AM)
IMO, unless u plan to upgrade to FX later or u really need a f2.8 zoom with long focal length, go for the 17-55..

the 24-70 in DX will have a focal length of 36-105mm, which is almost same as ur kit lens...

plus u oledi have a 35mm f1.8... still not enough for your son's portrait pics??  hmm.gif
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Urm... kit lens is 18-105mm?

Andy214
post Jan 3 2012, 12:32 PM

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QUOTE(seather @ Jan 3 2012, 11:43 AM)
D7000 kit lens is 18-105mm no?

according to his signature... this is his current gear ->

Camera : Nikon D7000, Canon G11
Lens : 35mm 1.8, 18-105 mm
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Sorry,I mean, you mentioned focal length same as kit lens...
24-70 = 36-105mm
18-105mm = 27-157.5mm

DX or FX lens, you still need to multiply by crop factor of the sensor.
That said, even you're using M4/3 lens, you still need to multiply by the crop factor of the sensor to get the 35mm format focal length.

Andy214
post Jan 3 2012, 02:28 PM

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QUOTE(yfyap69 @ Jan 3 2012, 01:45 PM)
I already have the 35mm but I like to shoot shoulder height so not so suitable. I like the sharpness of Nikkor lens.
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It looks like you already got your own answer tongue.gif
Andy214
post Jan 3 2012, 05:52 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jan 3 2012, 05:50 PM)
okay  unsure.gif

tonight see i free to test with car head light ...i try with other filter like hoya HMC UV see got this problem or not...

by the way who own 24-70 can do this similar test or not hehe notworthy.gif
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Try with and without filter and other filter if you have and compare results lo.

I only know my friend who using this lens, complain about unable to get flare when he want to get flare.
Andy214
post Jan 4 2012, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jan 3 2012, 06:11 PM)
lol then what filter he used?  hmm.gif
go back i need check, and i try use my normal UV hoya filter from my 35mm see got or not.
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No filter I believe.


QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jan 3 2012, 09:39 PM)
with filter
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

without
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


okay false alarm doh.gif  my bad
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The one with filter, there's a blue spot on the left of the photo?

QUOTE(Isepunye @ Jan 3 2012, 11:23 PM)
my friends just did some video using dslr which quite nice to share...
feel free to watch it! its parody for move like jagger
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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My friend just posted this yesterday! Will he happen to be one of your friend? Hehehe tongue.gif


QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jan 4 2012, 09:21 AM)
is that necessary to turn all WB into into normal back...hehe i duno, because that time is very very hot, sun light is soooo strong till i pening kepala and i dont even can see what reading in view finder...so i hantam sahaja for 3rd day i get this lens  sweat.gif
so everytime i watch back those photo... i will auto leave some yellowish on that because what i see is like that  unsure.gif
(if i use auto colour in Ps, the WB will adjust to normal and whole thing somehow will turn purple-ish  unsure.gif )
see wide open all the way can get what result.

now someone say soft, hmmm i need try use f/4~ f/8 see good or not haha...

harsh light on the fast like super strong sun light will affect sharpness too right? unsure.gif
i only can say that time the shooting hour is from 12pm-4pm.... because morning need wait them make up and wait someone arrival  unsure.gif
best light is in morning right?
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Purple-ish, Green-ish, Pink-ish, etc, due to the hair/clothing; Very trouble when you trying to correct the WB, you can try to correct/recover from the "tint" part, but other parts may be affected as well. In lightroom, there is recovery option which can help to recover, some but again, it may also affect some other parts and it may make the skin looks more pale in some ways.

Not sure if others more experience pros have any good suggestions or ideas for correcting this issue.
jchue?

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 4 2012, 09:50 AM
Andy214
post Jan 4 2012, 10:58 AM

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QUOTE(0168257061 @ Jan 4 2012, 10:06 AM)
Agito, 24-70 looks weird in cropped camera view finder right ? brows.gif
Time to smack it on full frame finder and you can see different perspective when you have BIG view brows.gif
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You're provoking him to commit crime tongue.gif
Or maybe, work harder during CNY, go collect Ang Pow, lol


QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jan 4 2012, 10:35 AM)
nothing happen on me, i just got one of holy grail not even 1 week. now figuring how to use it with body without big big LCD haha.
preview my in D70s LCD and monitor is 2 big different things haha. sweat.gif
need study the WB that got "PRE" setting there... i duno my D70s got Kelvin or not. i think dont have  sweat.gif
ya whole scene is green then major blue-purple on cosplayer... so when use normal WB, she will turn into purple monster haha... so had to use back yellow tint just like that time what i see haha..
i will stick to photoshop ><
lazy wait for days to ahem* find lightroom. since i got photoshop it should will do editing job.
i think need use selection tool to edit skin tone oledi. @_@
or i just leave it  whistling.gif
YOU DEVIL ............
i got ACDsee 10 (or 9) forget which version.... there got a lot control too...i think better i stick back on photoshop so when i found solution then i can apply on my drawing work too sometimes  tongue.gif


Added on January 4, 2012, 10:50 am

of course la if not why i post my noob shot here to let all sifu arrow in my knee?  tongue.gif

buy lens first for korean trip, as for the lens actually i wan get it sooner or later...just didn't expect trip is ealier than my schedule 1 month so kinda rush to get it.
but lucky in this time gap got cosplay shoot activity to practice so ya i need grab this chance practice first...but then i practice to snap shot candid one  tongue.gif
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Not necessary must use lightroom, I think Photoshop should have everything Lightroom can do? Afterall, Photoshop is the much more powerful tool, Lightroom is just easier to manage in terms of catalog, etc. I watch some video before about why use Lightroom when Photoshop is better.
In short, for basic edit, tone adjustment, etc... Lightroom is good enough.

ACDSee? You can also try Google Picasa3, it's free and very easy to use, using slider like lightroom; Work very well too, easy to use and fast. Somemore can do photo collage. Very nice.




Andy214
post Jan 4 2012, 12:31 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jan 4 2012, 11:18 AM)
sad truth my ang pau money for this 24 years never more than MYR 500 each year sweat.gif

sifu give me ang pau la  whistling.gif

sifu got view the original non-edit shot? i still wonder what is your guys' ideal colour for PP for that kind of shot  unsure.gif
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Yup, saw before, you posted before you edit right?

I think you want to boost the hair and clothing colour, but the skin also affected, very orangy (for me). The dull face skin tone, I think you just need to increase some exposure and pump in some light to make it more "lively". That's my preference la, but usually these steps will ligthen the colour on other parts, so some people prefer colourful photos will decrease the brightness/exposure or increase more saturation/vibrance.


Andy214
post Jan 4 2012, 12:49 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jan 4 2012, 12:37 PM)
ohh, wah hard to choose haha ><
i think need shoot raw oledi for my currently skill. jpeg is killing me XD.
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Why choose when there's no restriction that you can only choose 1? Try shoot both, experiment and compare both. You'll be able to understand and see better for yourself why one is better, and next time you can determine whether you need RAW or you can ignore it for different situation.


Andy214
post Jan 4 2012, 02:26 PM

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QUOTE(0168257061 @ Jan 4 2012, 01:49 PM)
agito, shoot standard profile, shoot raw, then open up in LR3 and see the result. I don't believe D70s could make bad photo, after all, what I see people use old camera like 1DsII have great picture whistling.gif
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True, there's many amazing photos out there taken with various types of camera. If one stop looking at the device and focus on the photo, then it'll be different.

A better camera will help, but it can also cause people to rely too much on it that they don't learn much. We need to know that technology is there is make our job easier, shorter time to achieve results, etc. but not make us "no need to learn" or neglecting knowledge/skill.

Technology is good, but only if used correctly.

QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jan 4 2012, 02:12 PM)
really?  drool.gif
weekend ar? XD
i got option of RAW + JPG basic, you mean that one?  unsure.gif
i need shoot raw from now on, the cosplay shot got some shot cant boost colour due to jpg setting i set before... the shadow area will become sucks and harsh  unsure.gif
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Yes, RAW + JPG; Just explore yourself and see the difference, play around with it; No pressure, there's no exam or time-limit you need to learn fast fast. As you learn and play around, you may discover more things, something you learn before, and in later stages, you may look back and have different opinion, etc. It's just like any other things, as you grow, you look back on your previous work or review, you will notice more things, etc.
Not really good in explaining, but you may notice this from your drawing or job as well, look back at your past work, or review your past work, what skills you learn before, etc.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 4 2012, 02:27 PM
Andy214
post Jan 4 2012, 02:42 PM

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QUOTE(Calvin Seak @ Jan 4 2012, 02:25 PM)
Are you working in nikon? happy.gif You're very nice!
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Read the link and you may find your answer:

Facilitators
Among the facilitators of this workshop are Azrul Abdullah, a former photo journalist and currently owns and operate a commercial studio. Eiffel Chong, is currently a renowned contemporary photographer and also lectures on photography at private institutions. Nikt Wong is a renowned writer and travel photographer. And Alex Moh is a curator and fine art photographer and currently works at the Nikon Centre KL.

Andy214
post Jan 4 2012, 04:17 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jan 4 2012, 03:50 PM)
i use to be drag few levels for editing photo ...until i shoot cosplayer then i got urge to smooth all da skin, dodge all da skin tone and fix the teeth and liquify body all the way  sweat.gif
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What do you mean drag few levels?
Normally if you're shooting for people, you also have to consider what people like/want or preference. As with art, people may appreciate or like different kind.

QUOTE(ifer @ Jan 4 2012, 03:58 PM)
oppss... hahahaa
but i still do not work in nikon.
i am just facilitating on PHOTO 4 and some workshops and the shooting stars.

by the way: 2 more days to the D4
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Hehe, no worries, it didn't write anything about working for Nikon tongue.gif

QUOTE(gerald7 @ Jan 4 2012, 04:00 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


continuous focus with 3D matrix (only time I switch on the 3D matrix for testing purposes, have not since, too slow to be usable in most cases for me) on with my 80-200 one touch kura kura.  I would say if the condition is right, (where the car has many stickers for the AF to focus on) hunt time is less for the lens. I think was shot at f5.6 or f8 at 1/4000. Not the best photo in the world, but just saying that 80200 if got meet good condition and budget is enough why not. Lucky for me I got mine under rm1.5k super mint condition and the best part can pay 4 months installment.

If we got chance to buy all latest and bestest I'm sure we all will la. I would like to have the latest 70-200 f/2.8 VRII. But so far the kura kura has not failed me in a way that makes me wanna spend so much of my hard earned $ to invest. What more to say I'm just shooting for fun. Maybe if an affordable 80-200 2touch comes my way I might consider tho.  smile.gif
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Sometimes, we have to work-around to comprehend for the lens limitation; E.g. slow focus, we can pre-focus first, unless the focus hunt, then you'll end up with long turn-around, lol.
If have enough light (e.g. daytime outdoor) can use smaller aperture.

People back in those days doesn't have such modern lens with blazing fast focus (not to mention other limitations, like ISO, etc), still manage to capture amazing action photos, I can't imagine those using manual focus. These skillls... thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by Andy214: Jan 4 2012, 04:18 PM
Andy214
post Jan 4 2012, 11:12 PM

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QUOTE(A@ron @ Jan 4 2012, 10:45 PM)
this is where the word 'greedy' came in, he mentioned everything about the lens is brand new, just that no warranty card, the person who gave him the lens lost it, so i thought it wasnt a big deal if i can get a brand new lens. until after i received it, i check the serial number(sticker). im currently asking if i can return his lens to him or not.
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I don't think got 'fake'? 'Fake' means? Not REAL?
It's a real lens, working; Unless you're talking about some non-Nikon lens, change the logo/branding as Nikon, probably you call it 'Fake'?
Or do you mean some company out there have the technology to make the lens exactly like Nikkors? I'm not sure if there's any such case before, if have probably it's still from the same factory but someone slip/take out and sell? or something like that?

This should be genuine lens; but the problem is, why the serial is like that?
One possibility might be like what Agito mentioned... stolen unit, hence why they need to remove the serial to avoid tracking.
OR? Is there any other reason? Demo Unit? Test Unit (free that was not suppose to be sold for certain period of time; e.g. hapens for devices)? etc?

Finally, you may be able to check with Nikon on the serial and what lens is it, See if there is such serial exist for this product and if it's been registered by someone?

Andy214
post Jan 5 2012, 01:04 PM

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QUOTE(Irbean @ Jan 5 2012, 12:36 PM)
Noob question, and please ignore if u think it’s a stupid one.

Manufacturer of Nikon is Japan, and establish few factory in Thailand as well as China. The main question is, the price in these 3 countries, is it standardise? Plus when we purchased the goods from US or other countries, the price tend to increase because of the freight charges and tax imposed (if any). Looking at the distance between these countries to Malaysia, its quite nearer compared to US and the Europe sides. So does this make huge different to the price itself, or directly lower price in Malaysia compared to Europe?
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You see Nike shoes in Nike Shop made in where. We have Nike Factory here.
You go to some other country, you may see the Nike Shoe that is made in Malaysia.

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