Bro, be safe Bro.. Myvi is very high, sumore u are quite high on the penang bridge, for sure alot of crosswind... Before i changed suspension n tires, only dare to go upto 140, that's also damn floaty... I tout penang bridge vey bumpy one..?? Esp at those joints...??

Bro, i drive a manual 1.5.... FC really good.. But if previously u drive VIVA, then ul spend more on fuel... Hehehe... Power wise, alot of torque in the 1.5, so need less gear changes compared with the 1.3... Top end power not so muc difference from 1.3, 10hp++ oso, so top speed not that much different.. But for sure the 1.5 will get to the top speed earlier

---

Added on November 23, 2011, 12:34 pmBro, Auto higher FC becus of that torque converter... Torque converter is the main part that causes higher FC compared with manual... Engine - tranny combo suffer some power loss becus of the torque converter that gives the car a smoother gear changes...

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 23 2011, 12:37 PM

Owh, 1 more thing, i believe the myvi is projector type headlight... But the high beam is reflector type... Take a look at ur myvi's headlight..

Yes, that one... Far left with large hole is projector, a bit right which u can see a tiny bulb is reflector type, that is the high beam one

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 23 2011, 12:48 PM

What do u mean Bro..?

Waaaa, turbo BOT izzit...?? Damn fast lar u will be then Bro...

---

Added on November 23, 2011, 3:13 pmWaaa, cool lar that saman ticket

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 23 2011, 03:13 PM

Really be different when u paired with some other modification, such as intake n exhaust... But need to tune by person who really know how lar Bro.. Otherwise will have exhaust pop pop pop...

Backfires or missfire Bro... Exhaust letup2 one

Not good Bro, unburnt fuel within the exhaust piping, that's y it letup2...

U mean u push accelerator until hit the rev limiter izzit...?? That is not misfiring Bro... That the rpm bouncing at the limiter only

Hehehe, bouncing at limiter is ok, bcuz the limiter is there to limit over rev... But, waste of fuel lar Bro... Sumore, original myvi top end not so sweet, like no use to rev that high also..

Hehehe, manual full bore start, u changed gear at around 7k rpm, sure got some wheel spin when drop clutch like crazy even when second going to third gear... Nice feeling, but very hard to the car...

---

Added on November 23, 2011, 9:56 pmU mean hard break in and slow break in izzit...??

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 23 2011, 09:56 PM

Yes, basically slow break in as per recommended by the manual

Hehehe, auto all is done for u.. If u use manual overide only then its changed from what's it programed to do.. Dun worry...

I also shift around 2k rpm only... Pocket friendly... But, if in the mood n want some adrenaline pumping, only then shift at the redline.,.. Hehehe

---

Added on November 23, 2011, 10:15 pmBut still, if going uphill and still wabt to chift at 2k rpm, that is not pocket friendly, taht is also straining the engine, so the engine still need to work xtra hard to do the work, hence more fuel...

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 23 2011, 10:15 PM

To test 0-100 is just like manual, ull need to tarik the rpm meter untill the redline only then u shift up, or sometimes when u started to feel less pulling force from the engine, and then u shift up... Do that in every gear untill u reach 100km/h... I dunno about auto, but manual ull get to 100 in early 3rd gear if im not mistaken...

Eg, start with 2(ur car will still start from 1st gear actually, but it will change gear after that without ur input), and then slam the accelerator hard until reach almost redline(remember not to hit the rev limiter, it will hurt ur 0-100 drag alot), n then change the overide stalk to 3rd and foot still hard on the accelerator continue all the wat till u reach ur desired speed... If u dont do manual overide, i think the gearbox will automaticly change the gear around 6k rpm only i guess(sister's old suzuki sport is like that, when manual overide only then can the engine bang the limiter)...

But, i think even in auto, the way to get the best sprint to 100 is still to actually start in neutral and then keep the engine rpm around 4-5k rpm n then slot into D, get the car moving n quickly overide to 2 n repeat the above method... Just same like manual, keep rmp around 4.5, drop the clutch like hell, there will be wheelspin, but only just... So need to guess the optimum engine speed to compromise between wheelspin and get away speed... This method is very hard on the gearbox... This is what we called full bore gateway... If manual, dont let the clutch go slowly, as it will slipppp aloooot n ul smell the clutch burning .. But, if too high engine speed n u drop the clutch, can also break the clutch, and ur car screaming like hell but no go... Ned to replace with new clutch then

To aid the acceleration, just put on really gripy tires up front,.. My own exp full bore acceleration before and after tyre change....

B4 change, oem tires --> Drop clutch at 4.5k, wheelspin like crazy until engine reach 6k almost redline, change into 2, still have wheelspin... Grip is not there, eventually clock 0-100 around low 10sec...

After change to potenzas ---> Drop clutch at 4.5k, wheelspin also, but not that long and the car moves forward really fast which means alot more grip though with wheelspin.. Change into second, wheelspin like half a second only...

But, after tyre change, can tell full bore acceleration when change into second, the clutch can't grip that fast, will have a bit slip before fully grip... Final figure...?? 9second flat average, n got 8.2 once

---

Added on November 24, 2011, 7:15 amSimply change to bigger piping wont really helps increase performance n hp figure and can even lead to power loss, becus all exhaust system also need some amount of back preasure in the exhaust system to perform.. But, basicly, the higher hp figure ur engine is pumping, the bigger ur exhaust diameter it can be, but also different kind of exhaust diameter also change ur engine's characteristics... Eg top end monster with low down even ur grandpa sunny 120y can cucuk u... Or crazy low end torque with very little top end or out of breath at around 5k rpm(lazy engine)...

I think for original engine with only minor mod (intake, full exhaust, plugs etc) , 1.6" diameter is optimum with myvi's engine... But, if BOT, maybe can go until 2" or a bit more...

---

Added on November 24, 2011, 7:19 amBro, D means the gearbox will automaticly change gear for u... It's the gearboz ecu which will determine which gear u should be in based on the throtle opening, engine load, engine speed etc etc... The gearbox will still go from 1 untill 4th, but u wont notice but can see the gear indicator(the new model) changing figures as per what the gearbox is doing.. But, even no indicator, still can rasa ur car slow abit n then accelerate again... N also look at the rpm meter, it will drop by quite a margin when change gear

---

Added on November 24, 2011, 7:28 amBro, look around at klang and also rawang... But, klang so many people are going there, but if u dont mind waiting or secondrate customer service, then try klang... Ive changed mine at rawang...

U r already on 15" or u are going to trade ur oem and go with 15" set...?? If trade in oem and go to 15", buy all at one shop can get crazy discount

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 24 2011, 07:28 AM

Standard is 1.5" diameter Bro.. Bro, if piping soo big, FC really bad ooo

Uve changed the extractor already ker rest...?? I also tout 4-1 more suitable for auto... IMHO, 2 piping is too big lar...
Try read here ---> Exhaust system mod many sifus there, but that forum like dead already..

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 24 2011, 10:54 AM

Waaaa... niceeee, how much it cost u...? Where did u changed it...??

U are referring to the trip computer or actual calculation...??

IMP disc n brake pad izzit Bro..?? I used that combo in my dad's myvi se 1st gen... Solved shaking problem... But now brake pad changed to vttr

---

Added on November 24, 2011, 11:17 amYeaa lar Bro.. Kweng's price damn good... Im gonna change as well.. But a bit later lar... Need to do soundproofing 1st.. Really bising lar tyre roar... Cant imagine how those extra wide n xtra aggressive thread pattern on those expensive/sports car sounded like.. But, maybe their soundproofing damn good one, so problem settled

This post has been edited by ikiey: Nov 24 2011, 11:18 AM