Duit company....

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Added on October 26, 2011, 4:46 pmMake note of the paint chip during delivery, and insist them to mark it down as defect. Then get them to fill up a defect claim note, and get the technical manager or branch manager to sign on it. This is so that they log in the defect.

Then go to a SC that have paint shop in the compound (in KL, so far only Sect 13 PJ and COE Shah Alam has), and claim warranty by re-spray. Do take note that you have to leave your car there for re-spray.

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Added on October 26, 2011, 4:49 pmPls share your opinion, why not advisable???

This post has been edited by Poadster: Oct 26 2011, 04:49 PM

Its factory tinted by EcoTint, using their best RayBarrier 4 mil for front screen, and security+tint 6 mil for sides and back. Total cost arnd RM3000. Someone was quoted RM550 to re-tint only ONE side window recently...

Pls dont waste money on those vouchers from SA, those are cheat vouchers so that they get commission from the tint shop they recommend you to...

If you want to darken it, then add a second layer, but be aware that it will not pass JPJ blocks and you will be asked to remove the tint... and this will remove BOTH layers if you kena, ask bro zuladha....

That is the so-called OEM HU, or some even calls it "ori Lancer EX" HU.... the functions are plentiful (DVD, GPS, USB, etc) and the touchscreen is nice.... BUT AUDIO SUCKS.... been telling anyone who cares to listen (was too late to tell you, coz you already bought by the time i read about your decision), but to each his own judgement and choice, and their money...



Bro... come TT and get immersed in the poison mods, you can decided how fast you wanna kill yourself...

No la... come here and see yourself for real what others have done, and you can then decide on what you want, nothing beats seeing it yourself....

1. YOU didnt get the ori part from the proper seller.... mine have the Mitsu logo and is from OEM factory...

2. Your installer dont have the experience in installing it... you must NOT remove all screw from the bonnet to install the holder, as the bonnet will SLIDE down (due to weight) and screw up the aligment... mine is perfectly aligned...

3. Coz yours is NOT OEM, it dont hold well for YOU.... mine is perfect, the guys have seen it up and not moving at all, and even XCInspire and myself have spent much time under the bonnet doing mods... it didnt move at all...

4. I had tested mine when installing.... one damper CAN hold up the bonnet, only lifting it is heavier (but without the dampers, the bonnet is way too heavy).... again, coz you didnt buy ORI or from OEM...

So, this dont mean OEM parts (strut bars, dampers, etc) dont work as well, it simply mean you bought from the WRONG source... and lets not get to those parts you are selling....

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Added on October 27, 2011, 12:06 amOri from Japan, with a Mitsu Japan part number sticker on the part and Mitsubishi Genuine Parts plastic bag wrap...

Current is OEM, donno from where and no stickers or Mitsu plastic bag...

Sorry to kacau Sleed's sales thingy, but he need to wake up and know what is OEM and what is ORI...

This post has been edited by Poadster: Oct 27 2011, 12:06 AM

Got so BIG girth or not...!!!??? Chabutzzzzz....

This post has been edited by Poadster: Oct 27 2011, 12:11 PM

If you look at the pic, the hole is made at the opening of the air intake snorkel... this improves the volume of COLD air coming in from the nose area, making the engine breathe easier (more air)...

If you make holes in the hose or the air filter chamber, you are allowing HOT engine air to go in, and this is not good as it makes your engine runs even hotter... you will notice that the opening of the snorkel area is blocked by a small strip of rubber (stuck on the bonnet) to prevent hot engine air from going in...

For those that have done open pod air filter, steps are taken to ensure the best flow of massive COLD air is accessed by the pod (thus the term CAI - Cold Air Intake).... same principle...

ADD-ON: To try making holes in the air filter box itself, all you have to do is loosen the clips on the air filter box... u will create "holes" and you will find your engine runs louder and no power....

The engine works best when a "vacuum" flow of air is sucked in via the air filter box, not open with holes.... try sucking a straw with holes in it....

This post has been edited by Poadster: Oct 27 2011, 12:51 PM

You can change anything, the issue here is where you claim warranty and what part claimed.

If you close to the SC and the warranty officer, then you can claim anything as he approves it. If the warranty officer is damn strict, then even changing bulbs could void warranty...

For your LED tail-lamp, if you simply plug and play it, you may (over 90% chance) that your dash display will give you an error code (LED uses different watt compared to halogen bulbs).... this could void warranty...

If the seller says its "modded" and wont have dash display error, means the LED set have capacitors added to it, and this added item to the wiring could void warranty....

So change at your own risk, if anything happens, the SC could just wipe the hands clean and said you have added non-standard parts to the car, thus voiding warranty....

Can be done and have been done.... just add capacitors to increase the resistance value returned to the ECU...

Cheap, but need to know the proper value....

Sorry, its resistors coz LED will return a higher value to the CAN-BUS, so add resistors to lower the value to match halogen....

See what happens when you simply Google the replies....

Looks like those arcade / jackpot slot machine.... so many round and slotted holes....

Cut it all up to get a uniform look ma.... its still a 90K car wor....

The brake lights is connected to auto cruise via the ECU, the ECU switches off the auto cruise when the brake are pressed... so how does the ECU knows the brakes are pressed..?? By getting a return value from the bulbs in the brake lamps (the brake pedal dont have sensors, right??)

As LED uses diff watt than halogen bulb, the lit LED return value to the ECU is different and the ECU will NOT think / know that the brake pedals are pressed and thus NOT switching off the cruise control...

So, think, will this affect the cruise control???

The initial batch of LED adopters also have commented that there is an error (code) on the display, but I cant verify this....

This post has been edited by Poadster: Oct 27 2011, 04:02 PM

Simple... use the paddle (for 2.0 CVT) or the manual stick swhift (for 1.8 CVT) to drop a gear and drag the RPM to 6201 (ask Kenny why)... same feel same rush.... !!

Arrrr....!!!??? Ori sure expensive lor... u no problem coz u rich ma....

>.<

This post has been edited by Poadster: Oct 28 2011, 05:02 PM

Mine is somewhere in there????

The alarm beeping sound is also always there, this is a security feature that allows anyone from inside the car to still exit the car before it goes into full arm mode. During this beep, the alarm is cancelled if the door is opened from inside....

The red blinking light is always blinking when the car is armed, as explained by CKK.... i guess you dont sit in your car to test the alarm or door lock, nor did u note anything that happens to your car huh....

The rattling sound may come from the loosen door unlock lever wire/cable, it may have gotten loose.... either DIY by removing the door paned (carefully pull from the bottom then side and lift up) and secure the cable by tape/glue, or get the SC to help secure it....

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Added on October 29, 2011, 4:11 amNow only you macho-fied your car ka???? How much did u get the Hella??? Its TwinTones in red???

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Added on October 29, 2011, 4:20 am1. Void or not depends on the SC where you claim warranty... but most recent HID comes plug and play (no wires cut) so you can also remove them if you wanna claim any warranty....

2. You hear or you have proven it by actually weighing them?? What is the advantage of swappig 16" with 16"...?? Even if the rims are lighter BY A LOT (which i doubt), you dont get any significant savings in FC or gain any performance boost or improved stability, nor will it help in improve the looks or reduce the gap between tyres and fender.... but its your money and your choice....

This post has been edited by Poadster: Oct 29 2011, 04:20 AM

I think your other fren (2.0) not very adept in using paddle.... i have gone up and down losing only to taxi, he over took me and all i can do is tiong him within 2 car length (just follow his line, easy peasy).... hahahaaha

My friend, pls stop commenting on things that you dont know, and this makes EVERYTHING that you post here as FALSE...

A segment mini cars = Compact cars = Kancil, Kelisa, etc

B segment small cars = Vios, City, Myvi, Saga, Gen 2, etc

C segment medium cars = Inspira, Forte, Waja, Persona, Altis, Volvo S40, etc...

D segment large cars (and for entry level luxury cars) = Accord, Camry, BMW 3 series, Merc C Class, Audi A4, Volvo S60, and Volvo 850 is here...

E segment executive cars = BMW 5 series, Merc E Class, Audi A6, Volvo S80, etc

F segment luxury cars = BMW 7 series, Merc S Class, Audi A8, etc

S segment sports cars = Ferrari, Bugatti, Lambo, etc

These segment classifications are Euro standard classifications of cars based on size and usage....

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Added on October 31, 2011, 1:16 amAgree, din see your reply here.....

This post has been edited by Poadster: Oct 31 2011, 01:16 AM

No no.... its FORZA....!!! Hahahahahhaah

The current version FORZA 4 is very good with all cars having internal dash view, way better than GT5.... and before any Sony fanboys shoot me, i have both consoles....

Isk isk isk.... cle long time no cum here, once return cha other car so bad meh....??? Hahahahah

Most Inspira buyers buy it coz of the Mitsu internals (engine, ECU, GB) and tech, and for the price savings it offers over Lancer or other cars in its price segment... I doubt many bought it coz it was Proton....

SUPER POWER LAGI BEST damn good power ok.... tested Diahatsu Sircon in SG recently, very nice power.... handling and sampan feel still there, but value for money....

ADD-ON: In fact, I find the Sircon handling less sampan than local Myvi... need to test K3nny's SUPER POWER to compare... hahahahah

This post has been edited by Poadster: Oct 31 2011, 04:14 PM