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 Worklog: PowerMacG5 casemod, Stopped modding this: Got the REAL THING

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TSMacDaNife
post Oct 19 2005, 05:04 AM

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QUOTE(Evogenix @ Oct 18 2005, 11:41 PM)
// MacDaNife :

IMHO, from the custom acrylic enclosure you made, the air flow will be blocked due the height of the heatsink. The heat will traped in between those heatsink, and it will shorten the lifespan of the psu if the temp is high loaded for a long run system. Its a serious problem, xpecially when the warrenty of the psu was voided
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I get what you mean. I've considered this even prior to your well illustrated post. It's a very valid point.

Don't have much of a choice as I need the PSU to be long rather than wide and that means changing the orientation of the board. It's the whole point of the acrylic enclosure.

I am making it a little taller to account for this. Will it be enough? Time will tell...
ivandj
post Oct 19 2005, 06:30 AM

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Add another fan for Exhaust on the TOP where the heat is , The other 2 fans use for intake . Would it be better ?
ianho
post Oct 19 2005, 06:49 AM

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QUOTE(MacDaNife @ Oct 18 2005, 09:50 PM)


Have not decided how to put the acrylic together... Glue? Screws? I've got the glue ready, SuperGlue is NOT a good idea as it will discolor the acrylic at the point of contact. Have tested the Selleys MultiGrip Contact Adhesive and while it takes longer to set, it provides a strong bond and will not discolor the acrylic.
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U shud haf bent the sides around using a hot airgun instead of chopping them off. But since u've chopped them off, u can get chloroform glue from hardware stores to glue it. They're commonly used to bond PVC pipe joints.
TSMacDaNife
post Oct 19 2005, 07:01 AM

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QUOTE(ianho @ Oct 19 2005, 06:49 AM)
U shud haf bent the sides around using a hot airgun instead of chopping them off. But since u've chopped them off, u can get chloroform glue from hardware stores to glue it. They're commonly used to bond PVC pipe joints.
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Actually, I've not yet fabricated the top and sides of the PSU acrylic case... Have been considering the heat/bend technique but descriptions on the web (have obviously not done this before myself) make it seem rather difficult....

Also it needs two people: One to apply heat with the gun, another to bend and as a solo modder... this may prove to be a little difficult. Can't trust my sons with either the gun (they are likely to burn me instead) nor with the bending...

So I guess the bottom line will be: screw it. laugh.gif
GoldenHawk
post Oct 19 2005, 11:13 AM

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Ever considered using really small fans (40mm or so) to drain the heatspots OFF the hot air. Don't use them as primary exhaust vents, just as an alternative way suck the hot air out.

Not good with graphics, so I hope you get my idea. "Bend" the airflow by creating negative preassure at the heat-spots sweat.gif
sooyewguan
post Oct 19 2005, 12:28 PM

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Why not using the exhaust fan to sux the heat sink hot air out.

Attached Image


May be can change to rear fan into 60mm, then could be a perfect match ?Attached Image


Just my 2 cents, i think Mac should have his idea how to solve his prob.

mADmAN
post Oct 19 2005, 12:39 PM

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^ this is actually a very good idea.... especially since u have an extra blower right?

myself i was thingking of something alone the line of goldenhawks idea.

putting a 40mm fan between the heatsinks and place it at the bottom to help push the hot air up.

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Oct 19 2005, 12:40 PM
GoldenHawk
post Oct 19 2005, 02:13 PM

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Here's another idea that just popped into my head...
Blue line denotes the airflow...

Sorry for the bad graphics sweat.gif

Attached Image
aaron_lwm
post Oct 19 2005, 05:54 PM

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@macdanife
OMG, warranty void, but its gonna be alright, good progress, cheers thumbup.gif
Gamer
post Oct 19 2005, 06:56 PM

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I think is better put the 80mm fan on top of those heatsink and blow down then another fan at back suck hot air out.
sniper on the roof
post Oct 19 2005, 10:53 PM

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QUOTE(GoldenHawk @ Oct 19 2005, 02:13 PM)
Here's another idea that just popped into my head...
Blue line denotes the airflow...

Sorry for the bad graphics sweat.gif

Attached Image
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Huh? Can turn a smooth S meh?

Don't get it dood.
pizzaboy
post Oct 19 2005, 11:23 PM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Oct 19 2005, 10:53 PM)
Huh? Can turn a smooth S meh?

Don't get it dood.
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i think he's suggesting like, two fans, one suck, one blow.
Then in such a shape, it' should theoritically move in a S motion and remove heat better.

Theories rock, practical......
TSMacDaNife
post Oct 20 2005, 06:04 AM

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QUOTE(GoldenHawk @ Oct 19 2005, 02:13 PM)
Here's another idea that just popped into my head...
Blue line denotes the airflow...

Sorry for the bad graphics sweat.gif

Attached Image
*
Looks more restrictive to me...
GoldenHawk
post Oct 20 2005, 09:06 AM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Oct 19 2005, 10:53 PM)
Huh? Can turn a smooth S meh?

Don't get it dood.
*
Well, it IS a theory...
The idea is to get the air to flow in a certain direction so that it hits the heatsink BUT doesn't get stuck in a hot-air whirlpool. At one end, the fan pushes the air in & the other, the fan pushes the air out. Sorry for not drawing the fans out sweat.gif I warned you guys that my graphics SUCK sweat.gif

It would REALL help if there were holes througgt the heatsink. This way, you'ld get a constant cooling draft going THROUGH the heatsink, which not only helps cooling, but provides some amount of unrestricted airflow...
iZuDeeN
post Oct 20 2005, 10:11 AM

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QUOTE(GoldenHawk @ Oct 20 2005, 09:06 AM)
Well, it IS a theory...
The idea is to get the air to flow in a certain direction so that it hits the heatsink BUT doesn't get stuck in a hot-air whirlpool. At one end, the fan pushes the air in & the other, the fan pushes the air out. Sorry for not drawing the fans out sweat.gif I warned you guys that my graphics SUCK sweat.gif

It would REALL help if there were holes througgt the heatsink. This way, you'ld get a constant cooling draft going THROUGH the heatsink, which not only helps cooling, but provides some amount of unrestricted airflow...
*
it will create more resistance since there is a heatsink obstructing its path...

air is not like water where it will take shape of the surrounding...

no doubt that there will be air going out through the exhaust but there will still be a whirpool in there due to the resistance...
GoldenHawk
post Oct 20 2005, 01:22 PM

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QUOTE(iZuDeeN @ Oct 20 2005, 10:11 AM)
it will create more resistance since there is a heatsink obstructing its path...

air is not like water where it will take shape of the surrounding...

no doubt that there will be air going out through the exhaust but there will still be a whirpool in there due to the resistance...
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This is why I recommended putting holes through the heatsink.... get my point? unsure.gif
junkieG
post Oct 22 2005, 09:23 AM

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drilling through the fins can be pain in the arse wink.gif
TSMacDaNife
post Oct 22 2005, 11:01 AM

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Ain't no way I'm drilling through any fins. Anyways, completed the PSU mod the way I want it. thanks for the suggestions guys but if you were to see this in person, you will realize that airflow is really quite good. The wires had to be carefully folded out of the way in order not to block the intake fan.

Note that I've place the fan control rheostat and the on/off switch at the TOP of the PSU. This is intentional as I do not intend to cut the back of the case for the PSU switches. The layout of the
G5 will be such that the side of the case would be most accessible so this placement suits the case just fine...

Without further ado, here are the pics... Now to find some nice small (but longish) screws....

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

user posted image
sherren
post Oct 22 2005, 11:57 AM

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@Macdanife
Good Work thumbup.gif cant wait to see for more updates
ckwei
post Oct 22 2005, 12:27 PM

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nice work.. question is, isnt the acrylic that ur using too thin to screw through? a thicker piece would've been easier to work with tongue.gif

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