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 -+♦+- LYN PROTON PERSONA CLUB V24 -+♦+-, Celebrating 2 dozen threads!

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nightcat
post Oct 7 2011, 02:50 AM

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may i know why you remove the engine cover?
xandras
post Oct 7 2011, 08:12 AM

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QUOTE(nightcat @ Oct 7 2011, 02:50 AM)
may i know why you remove the engine cover?
*
So u obviously haven't seen an old campro engine before. Prior to IAFM, there are no engine cover for Campro engines.


Added on October 7, 2011, 8:13 amOr did u mean the ignition coil cover? hmm.gif

This post has been edited by xandras: Oct 7 2011, 08:13 AM
jasondotcom
post Oct 7 2011, 08:47 AM

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QUOTE(nightcat @ Oct 7 2011, 02:50 AM)
may i know why you remove the engine cover?
*
u referring to me right? if u are, then well...... i dunno, guess i like it this way... heheheh. the cover to me is a ugly design because there is no creativity in it and it looks like a box. actually the main reason for me to remove it is because i do not want my engine to have accumulated engine oil stains due to the mechanic's "accident" while pouring engine oil during oil change.

used to have it on mine is black top version tongue.gif

user posted image
user posted image

This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Oct 7 2011, 08:53 AM
dorinyeah
post Oct 7 2011, 09:52 AM

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saw 1st on the road.
Attached Image


Added on October 7, 2011, 9:53 amtheir ready stock damm fast!!

This post has been edited by dorinyeah: Oct 7 2011, 09:53 AM
TSZenGTMM
post Oct 7 2011, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(dorinyeah @ Oct 7 2011, 09:52 AM)
saw 1st on the road.
Attached Image


Added on October 7, 2011, 9:53 amtheir ready stock damm fast!!
*
Saw a lot of these around TarCollege loh.. Now im waiting to ram one of them..
Fubar20
post Oct 7 2011, 10:33 AM

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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Oct 7 2011, 10:22 AM)
Saw a lot of these around TarCollege loh.. Now im waiting to ram one of them..
*
sad.gif Why Zeng want to commit kamikaze on them? They can turtle on their own action. rolleyes.gif
dorinyeah
post Oct 7 2011, 10:49 AM

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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Oct 7 2011, 10:22 AM)
Saw a lot of these around TarCollege loh.. Now im waiting to ram one of them..
*
haha... those kiddo...

QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Oct 7 2011, 10:33 AM)
sad.gif Why Zeng want to commit kamikaze on them? They can turtle on their own action. rolleyes.gif
*
ya meh... feel the tires size is to small... we see within 3 months how many turtled??
Fubar20
post Oct 7 2011, 10:57 AM

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QUOTE(dorinyeah @ Oct 7 2011, 10:49 AM)
haha... those kiddo...
ya meh... feel the tires size is to  small... we see within 3 months how many turtled??
*
sweat.gif Need so long meh? Within 1 month can see LAGI BEST, LAGI POWER, LAGI TURTLE!! whistling.gif
Cavino
post Oct 7 2011, 11:23 AM

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Today just open up the engine for my other City (got 2 city). Up to 60K using Honda Idemitsu Mineral SL 10W30, 60K-~ 70K using Idemitsu Mineral SM 10W30, 70K to 80K using Idemitsu Semi Syn SM 10W40 and finally now using Idemitsu FS SM 5W30. In another word, from beginning till now using Idemitsu Mineral, then semi, finally FS.

Engine is super clean when open up. Just like new, very impressive, no sludge, as matter of fact, not even a single hint of contamination. Current FS 2.5K mileage, almost 6 years. My mechanic commented after open up and look inside (in order to clean intake manifold, etc), the darn engine looks like newly arrive wan...

Throttle body and intake manifold another story...had to clean and see if fix idle low rpm problem.

Anyway, that city 80% city drive. Woman driver, service every 5K without fail (I'm the one who do it...)..I think I will stick with Idemitsu till the end, super clean and currently very silent engine and good torque performance. And most importantly service every 5K even with FS....used FS coz improve silent, reduce vibration drastically...and smoother acceleration. Of course price triple that of mineral...but worth it for comfort reason.
dorinyeah
post Oct 7 2011, 11:29 AM

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QUOTE(Cavino @ Oct 7 2011, 11:23 AM)
Today just open up the engine for my other City (got 2 city). Up to 60K using Honda Idemitsu Mineral SL 10W30, 60K-~ 70K using Idemitsu Mineral SM 10W30, 70K to 80K using Idemitsu Semi Syn SM 10W40 and finally now using Idemitsu FS SM 5W30. In another word, from beginning till now using Idemitsu Mineral, then semi, finally FS.

Engine is super clean when open up. Just like new, very impressive, no sludge, as matter of fact, not even a single hint of contamination. Current FS 2.5K mileage, almost 6 years. My mechanic commented after open up and look inside (in order to clean intake manifold, etc), the darn engine looks like newly arrive wan...

Throttle body and intake manifold another story...had to clean and see if fix idle low rpm problem.

Anyway, that city 80% city drive. Woman driver, service every 5K without fail (I'm the one who do it...)..I think I will stick with Idemitsu till the end, super clean and currently very silent engine and good torque performance. And most importantly service every 5K even with FS....used FS coz improve silent, reduce vibration drastically...and smoother acceleration. Of course price triple that of mineral...but worth it for comfort reason.
*
seem like Idemitsu very good oh...
how much for FS?? FS 5W30 suitable for PE? got 5W40 or 0W40??

btw, saw tesco@scott garden selling castro edge sport selling RM199... who want faster grab!!
Cavino
post Oct 7 2011, 11:36 AM

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QUOTE(dorinyeah @ Oct 7 2011, 11:29 AM)
seem like Idemitsu very good oh...
how much for FS?? FS 5W30 suitable for PE? got 5W40 or 0W40??

btw, saw tesco@scott garden selling castro edge sport selling RM199... who want faster grab!!
*
I won't recommend 5W30 for PE. IMO, PE should go for weight 40. Idemitsu FS has 5W40. Since my PE going to service every 2.5 months vs my City 5 months (wifey driving...for me abt 3-4 months)...I think I will stick to Semi for PE. Should be switch over at 25K mileage....now only 8-9K mileage, all free parts and labor till 20K...(15K makan sendiri, but will use Petronas semi to since 10K and 20K also petronas semi)..

The semi at 10W40 does not suit the city tho...more vibration. Also want to add, car 86K mileage only...

Price for FS is abt RM198 to RM200 inclusive labor. Bought 2 cans 5W40 outside for RM140 only but still testing on both my city....hoping its original (it should be coz I think since Idemitsu only sell direct to workshop and not available on retail, it minimize potential for fakes (fakes wanted volume...parts shop sells)...but you never know...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 7 2011, 11:48 AM
jasondotcom
post Oct 7 2011, 11:45 AM

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QUOTE(Cavino @ Oct 7 2011, 11:36 AM)
I won't recommend 5W30 for PE. IMO, PE should go for weight 40. Idemitsu FS has 5W40. Since my PE going to service every 2.5 months vs my City 5 months (wifey driving...for me abt 3-4 months)...I think I will stick to Semi for PE. Should be switch over at 25K mileage....now only 8-9K mileage, all free parts and labor till 20K...(15K makan sendiri, but will use Petronas semi to since 10K and 20K also petronas semi)..

The semi at 10W40 does not suit the city tho...more vibration. Also want to add, car 86K mileage only...
*
actually xW-30 engine oil is far better than xW-40. I used xW-30 engine oil on my persona and it was fastastic. quite a lot of difference in terms of acceleration and engine response as the oil is lighter. Now i use back xW-40 in my recent oil change because i wanted to use up the remaining 4L bottle of xW-40 oil if not go to waste. And since then, i immediately felt the difference as switching from xW-30 to xW-40 i immediately felt the engine is heavier. I am gonna switch back to xW-30 in my next oil change.

how much u bought for the idemitsu oil????

This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Oct 7 2011, 11:46 AM
Fubar20
post Oct 7 2011, 11:48 AM

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QUOTE(jasondotcom @ Oct 7 2011, 11:45 AM)
actually xW-30 engine oil is far better than xW-40. I used xW-30 engine oil on my persona and it was fastastic. quite a lot of difference in terms of acceleration and engine response as the oil is lighter. Now i use back xW-40 in my recent oil change because i wanted to use up the remaining 4L bottle of xW-40 oil if not go to waste. And since then, i immediately felt the difference as switching from xW-30 to xW-40 i immediately felt the engine is heavier. I am gonna switch back to xW-30 in my next oil change.
*
How many mileage you have used this xW-30 engine oil?
Since xW-40 viscosity is higher than xW-30, it is normal to feel the engine is heavier.
Cavino
post Oct 7 2011, 11:51 AM

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QUOTE(jasondotcom @ Oct 7 2011, 11:45 AM)
actually xW-30 engine oil is far better than xW-40. I used xW-30 engine oil on my persona and it was fastastic. quite a lot of difference in terms of acceleration and engine response as the oil is lighter. Now i use back xW-40 in my recent oil change because i wanted to use up the remaining 4L bottle of xW-40 oil if not go to waste. And since then, i immediately felt the difference as switching from xW-30 to xW-40 i immediately felt the engine is heavier. I am gonna switch back to xW-30 in my next oil change.

how much u bought for the idemitsu oil????
*
Bro..of course lar its lighter. Its FC saving, light and improve acceleration vs 40 but the heat protection and thickness of 30 might not be sufficient for our PE compro. If its CPS, 30 is currently recommended coz I believe their engine mods are cool enuf for weight 30. While 30 might be lighter, smoother and accelerate better, it's proven to suffer in higher speed and PE loves higher speed drives. So sticking with 40 will be the safest bet to protect the engine especially campro high rev wan...might have runs often at 110 to 130km/h....

We're not sure how big is the piston bore gap...since Proton recommended 50 earlier then switch to 40. Manual indicate 40 to 50 weighted and I strongly suggest to keep within that range. 30 might be too thin for the existing gaps and if does not lubricate enuf, sooner or later your piston might scratch to mak also cannot recognise....can change engine liao...maybe the new cam-vvt..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 7 2011, 11:58 AM
dorinyeah
post Oct 7 2011, 11:54 AM

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QUOTE(Cavino @ Oct 7 2011, 11:36 AM)
I won't recommend 5W30 for PE. IMO, PE should go for weight 40. Idemitsu FS has 5W40. Since my PE going to service every 2.5 months vs my City 5 months (wifey driving...for me abt 3-4 months)...I think I will stick to Semi for PE. Should be switch over at 25K mileage....now only 8-9K mileage, all free parts and labor till 20K...(15K makan sendiri, but will use Petronas semi to since 10K and 20K also petronas semi)..

The semi at 10W40 does not suit the city tho...more vibration. Also want to add, car 86K mileage only...

Price for FS is abt RM198 to RM200 inclusive labor. Bought 2 cans 5W40 outside for RM140 only but still testing on both my city....hoping its original (it should be coz I think since Idemitsu only sell direct to workshop and not available on retail, it minimize potential for fakes (fakes wanted volume...parts shop sells)...but you never know...
*
QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Oct 7 2011, 11:48 AM)
How many mileage you have used this xW-30 engine oil?
Since xW-40 viscosity is higher than xW-30, it is normal to feel the engine is heavier.
*
QUOTE(Cavino @ Oct 7 2011, 11:51 AM)
Bro..of course lar its lighter. Its FC saving, light and improve acceleration vs 40 but the heat protection and thickness of 30 might not be sufficient for our PE compro. If its CPS, 30 is currently recommended coz I believe their engine mods are cool enuf for weight 30. While 30 might be lighter, smoother and accelerate better, it will suffer in higher speed and PE loves higher speed drives. So sticking with 40 will be the safest bet to protect the engine especially campro high rev wan...
*
Bro Cavino, u still miss out to reply the price! rclxub.gif
Cavino
post Oct 7 2011, 11:59 AM

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QUOTE(dorinyeah @ Oct 7 2011, 11:54 AM)
Bro Cavino, u still miss out to reply the price! rclxub.gif
*
I modified in my original post...loves to modify instead of create new post....

Any to rephrase...

Price for FS is abt RM198 to RM200 inclusive labor. Bought 2 cans 5W40 outside for RM140 only but still testing on both my city....hoping its original (it should be coz I think since Idemitsu only sell direct to workshop and not available on retail, it minimize potential for fakes (fakes wanted volume...parts shop sells)...but you never know...

Semi 10W40 is abt RM110 kuah...with labor.


Added on October 7, 2011, 12:05 pmSo far my City pistons looks ok...so I think no need magnatec kuah...coz the Idemitsu confirm super clean ASSUMING you service every 5K to 6K. I believe that is a major part of the reason for the super clean non contaminated shiny shiny internal engine...

If like Zen, always drags till no power, don't think even if use Grade 4 FS, it can maintain that cleanliness..

Haha...loves to use Zen as example....but frankly lots of ppl drag till no power only change...engine cepat die wan...but in the end depends on luck..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 7 2011, 12:09 PM
jasondotcom
post Oct 7 2011, 12:15 PM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Oct 7 2011, 11:48 AM)
How many mileage you have used this xW-30 engine oil?
Since xW-40 viscosity is higher than xW-30, it is normal to feel the engine is heavier.
*
used it for 10k. yeap, loves the lighter feel on xW-30 oil smile.gif


QUOTE(Cavino @ Oct 7 2011, 11:51 AM)
Bro..of course lar its lighter. Its FC saving, light and improve acceleration vs 40 but the heat protection and thickness of 30 might not be sufficient for our PE compro. If its CPS, 30 is currently recommended coz I believe their engine mods are cool enuf for weight 30. While 30 might be lighter, smoother and accelerate better, it's proven to suffer in higher speed and PE loves higher speed drives. So sticking with 40 will be the safest bet to protect the engine especially campro high rev wan...might have runs often at 110 to 130km/h....

We're not sure how big is the piston bore gap...since Proton recommended 50 earlier then switch to 40. Manual indicate 40 to 50 weighted and I strongly suggest to keep within that range. 30 might be too thin for the existing gaps and if does not lubricate enuf, sooner or later your piston might scratch to mak also cannot recognise....can change engine liao...maybe the new cam-vvt..
*
yea.... at this point still kinda subjective la i think. hahaha. anyway, just another review when using xw-30 engine oil. constantly going outstation long journey drives at high speed ranging from 100 to 150kmh for 6 hours. end of the OCI, i have yet to do any topping up of the oil and its still pretty clean (Toyota semi synthetic SM grade oil used).

humm... we'll see how it goes end of the day. I become the guinea pig here loh using xw-30 engine oil.... tongue.gif
Fubar20
post Oct 7 2011, 12:20 PM

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QUOTE(jasondotcom @ Oct 7 2011, 12:15 PM)
used it for 10k. yeap, loves the lighter feel on xW-30 oil smile.gif
yea.... at this point still kinda subjective la i think. hahaha. anyway, just another review when using xw-30 engine oil. constantly going outstation long journey drives at high speed ranging from 100 to 150kmh for 6 hours. end of the OCI, i have yet to do any topping up of the oil and its still pretty clean (Toyota semi synthetic SM grade oil used).

humm... we'll see how it goes end of the day. I become the guinea pig here loh using xw-30 engine oil.... tongue.gif
*
hmm.gif Then your total mileage which is? Previously using which weight of engine oil?
biggrin.gif I think you are the first one. Please update here on using xW-30 oil. Jackyap can be ur fansi too. rolleyes.gif
Cavino
post Oct 7 2011, 12:30 PM

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QUOTE(jasondotcom @ Oct 7 2011, 12:15 PM)
used it for 10k. yeap, loves the lighter feel on xW-30 oil smile.gif
yea.... at this point still kinda subjective la i think. hahaha. anyway, just another review when using xw-30 engine oil. constantly going outstation long journey drives at high speed ranging from 100 to 150kmh for 6 hours. end of the OCI, i have yet to do any topping up of the oil and its still pretty clean (Toyota semi synthetic SM grade oil used).

humm... we'll see how it goes end of the day. I become the guinea pig here loh using xw-30 engine oil.... tongue.gif
*
The only way to know if damage is done is to open open engine and see if piston or bore gap scratch due to insufficient thinkness. I think if you constantly go at 100 to 100km/h especially for long drive. Weight 40 is the one you should use, no doubt abt that. If most city drive and speed usually don't exceed 110km/h, weight 30 "might" still be manageable tho I still would go by the manual..

As I mention b4, lube clean either means your engine is clean OR it might be its not doing enuf cleaning.

My City using the FS by 1K to 2.5K, already going towards dark brown...open up engine super clean. That means IT IS DOING whats its other key function is about....cleaning and SUSPENDING contaminants in its liquid. If after 10K still light brown...I will have doubt abt the lube cleaning AND suspension capabilities....NO WAY a lube in our weather and dusty air can maintain light brown after 5-6K..

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 7 2011, 12:35 PM
TSZenGTMM
post Oct 7 2011, 12:47 PM

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QUOTE(Fubar20 @ Oct 7 2011, 10:33 AM)
sad.gif Why Zeng want to commit kamikaze on them? They can turtle on their own action. rolleyes.gif
*
I saw the Myvi, normal number plates only, but tampal those Bekas Police plague, Rela plague, those useless Negeri emblem all.. Like flower car wei... But too bad still parking at TarC roadside.. hahaha..

QUOTE(Cavino @ Oct 7 2011, 11:23 AM)
Today just open up the engine for my other City (got 2 city). Up to 60K using Honda Idemitsu Mineral SL 10W30, 60K-~ 70K using Idemitsu Mineral SM 10W30, 70K to 80K using Idemitsu Semi Syn SM 10W40 and finally now using Idemitsu FS SM 5W30. In another word, from beginning till now using Idemitsu Mineral, then semi, finally FS.

Engine is super clean when open up. Just like new, very impressive, no sludge, as matter of fact, not even a single hint of contamination. Current FS 2.5K mileage, almost 6 years. My mechanic commented after open up and look inside (in order to clean intake manifold, etc), the darn engine looks like newly arrive wan...

Throttle body and intake manifold another story...had to clean and see if fix idle low rpm problem.

Anyway, that city 80% city drive. Woman driver, service every 5K without fail (I'm the one who do it...)..I think I will stick with Idemitsu till the end, super clean and currently very silent engine and good torque performance. And most importantly service every 5K even with FS....used FS coz improve silent, reduce vibration drastically...and smoother acceleration. Of course price triple that of mineral...but worth it for comfort reason.
*
One thing good bout Japanese stuffs is that they really do proper R&D b4 marketing a product, and wont cut corners to achieve the quality standards. So when u are using a high grade stuff from Japan u can be assured of the quality and reputation of the manufacturer..

QUOTE(Cavino @ Oct 7 2011, 11:59 AM)
I modified in my original post...loves to modify instead of create new post....

Any to rephrase...

Price for FS is abt RM198 to RM200 inclusive labor. Bought 2 cans 5W40 outside for RM140 only but still testing on both my city....hoping its original (it should be coz I think since Idemitsu only sell direct to workshop and not available on retail, it minimize potential for fakes (fakes wanted volume...parts shop sells)...but you never know...

Semi 10W40 is abt RM110 kuah...with labor.


Added on October 7, 2011, 12:05 pmSo far my City pistons looks ok...so I think no need magnatec kuah...coz the Idemitsu confirm super clean ASSUMING you service every 5K to 6K. I believe that is a major part of the reason for the super clean non contaminated shiny shiny internal engine...

If like Zen, always drags till no power, don't think even if use Grade 4 FS, it can maintain that cleanliness..

Haha...loves to use Zen as example....but frankly lots of ppl drag till no power only change...engine cepat die wan...but in the end depends on luck..
*
cry.gif That time I use Magnatec for 9k cos no money to change oil.. I very sayang my car one.. Sayang more than my gf.. Last time my gf also complaint i use more care taking care of my car than her..

QUOTE(Cavino @ Oct 7 2011, 12:30 PM)
The only way to know if damage is done is to open open engine and see if piston or bore gap scratch due to insufficient thinkness. I think if you constantly go at 100 to 100km/h especially for long drive. Weight 40 is the one you should use, no doubt abt that. If most city drive and speed usually don't exceed 110km/h, weight 30 "might" still be manageable tho I still would go by the manual..

As I mention b4, lube clean either means your engine is clean OR it might be its not doing enuf cleaning.

My City using the FS by 1K to 2.5K, already going towards dark brown...open up engine super clean. That means IT IS DOING whats its other key function is about....cleaning and SUSPENDING contaminants in its liquid. If after 10K still light brown...I will have doubt abt the lube cleaning AND suspension capabilities....NO WAY a lube in our weather and dusty air can maintain light brown after 5-6K..
*
Next round I dunno which oil im going to try, another 4.5k km b4 my next service but i want to change earlier like after 3.5k mileage. Currently on my mind is Castrol Edge Titanium, Eneos fully Sync, Idemitsu Fully Sync and Mobil 1 Gold Super Sync.

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