ha hah ah ah .. ... By that time, most probably you are already listed in home renovation contractor association's BLACKLIST...

Yup... HR2470 drills 10mm into concrete just like child play, or like cutting butter with hot knife.. If you buy HR2470, most probably you will also get Makita brand 5 pieces masonry drill bits. 6, 6.5, 8, 10 and 12 mm.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Dec 7 2011, 10:51 PM

Guess what were lying on the floor ?



Looks like another rotary hammer... Yup, the other rotary hammer is my brother inlaw's, which I lend for my review(?).

Boyai BY2.24R
Power: 680W
RPM : 0-970 rpm
Weight : ligther than my HR2810, but not that much.
max concrete : 24 mm
Price: Around MYR200
3 mode rotary hammer: Rotary only, Rotary + Hammer, Hammer only

Quality : Decent quiality for the price.
Noise/sound : A bit louder and rougher compared to my reference rotary hammer, the Makita HR2810
Handling: Since this is a pistol grip type, the weight is distributed more at the front, and have to use 2 hands to hold comfortably, during horizontal drill, ie, wall drilling. The distance between auxiliary handle and grip is longer than HR2810's, which I felt 'awkward', might be due to the weight distribution and since I only use HR2810 all the time Nothing bad about it, just need time to adapat to it .

To be continued....

This post has been edited by bahathir: Dec 9 2011, 10:52 PM

I just published a Boyai BY2.24R rotary hammer quick review in youtube.



Both able to complete the task, drilling into concrete block using 15mm masonry drill bit. BTW, the drill bit is a cheap one, so, it may not as efficient as the branded one.
I am sure the cheap China made rotary hammer can drill 6mm very easily.

The depth gauge of the BY2-24R is already faulty, the plastic screw is being detached, and I cannot remove the depth gauge rod. So, be careful when using it.

Thank you

I also noticed the trigger switch is stiff. I need extra pressure to my fingers to hold it at desired power. In the clip, I re-apply force/presure to my fingers to keep it at maximum power, twice. So, tto maintain the power, use the 'trigger lock' feature. By contrast, HR2810's trigger switch is very comfortable and easy to maintain the position, without any needs of the 'trigger lock' feature.

Note: This time I took the 1080p FullHD video using Sony DSC-TX10 compact camera. This one also my brother inlaw's

This post has been edited by bahathir: Dec 10 2011, 05:06 PM

Before I picked Makita rotary hammer, I did lots for 're'search in Internet. I read plenty of DIY forum discussions, and both Bosch and Makita are great tool, and I picked Makita because of cheaper price. Example HR2810 is MYR640, and Bosch 3-28 series is around MYR900. The price difference is getting smaller for a smaller size... 24,26mm. So, it is up to your to choose which one you like. Even MYR200 cheap china made rotary hammer can do the drill task. , so imagine how much better the MYR500-600 good quality rotary hammer can do.

IMHO, Makita feel lighter and slightly smaller, compared to Bosch. Might be, Makita made the tools for small hands of Japanese, compared to German hands . BTW, I also proud of Bosch because some of the tools are 'made in MALAYSIA!!.

Makita has warehouse at Jasakita Berhad. So, I am quite confident they can service my HR2810 in no time. The shop staff said, they can repair it in 3 days, and simple brush replacement took several minutes, because the have stocks of the brushes for some models.

So, I you buy the Bosch DRE 2-26, please do write review in this trhead, or just post the link if you post it in other threads.

TQ.

Good question.
I started looking into rotary hammer after using my brother inlaw's Boyai BY2-24R for the first time. Initially, I want to buy SKIL 1715, and I started the 're-'search in the Internet. Even though I am using for a light weight DIY jobs, the bigger size rotary hammer 'should' be much more reliable and powerful. I also considering the Makita HR1830, a lightweight (1.7 kg only) and small too. I think my wife also can use it by herself . I didn't go for it because it doesn't has chisel mode.
I also was thinking to get HILTI TE-2 or Bosch Bulldog Extreme

Another aspect is the design itself. I like L shaped design, which most of the heavy duty rotary hammers are L shaped. Also, IMHO, it looks cool. L shape also slightly shorter than typical pistol grip rotary hammer at the same size.

It is a bit pricier compared to 24. or 24mm rotary hammer, but am glad and satisfied with the HR2810 purchase. ... I drilled more than one hundred holes, and most of it are on the concrete block which you see in my video clips Great place to 'lepas gian' To be honest, 40% of the grillings are the actual drilling in my house or removing stones from garden soil.

I am looking forward to read you Bosch DRE 2-26 review. Anyway, welcome to Loyat's rotary hammer's club....

This post has been edited by bahathir: Dec 15 2011, 10:09 PM

Looks fabulous. .

Yeah, as I said before, the price difference is smaller between Makita and Bosch, because, 24-26 mm class is much popular, compared to other size. Now, the important thing is, how easy to drill holes into wall compared to impact/percussion drill.



From this article. back in 2005;
http://www.toolsofthetrade.net/industry-ne...rticleID=501400

Hitachi rotary hammer is the most powerful, and the cheapest in it's class. but, I did not find the brand around my place. So, I think it is quite difficult to get support and service.



Since then, manufacturers are using advanced technology to make the newer models even better, in term of size, weight and power. So, IMHO, we are getting better products with more competitive pricing.

Thank you.

---

Added on December 16, 2011, 11:17 amOya, what drill bit's sizes you got ?
I can see Bosch S4L 10mm, but not sure about the other sizes.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Dec 16 2011, 11:17 AM

Eng_tat.. yup the pricing is reasonable. If I am mistaken, I saw MYR499 for HR2470 at Living Depot in Bangi , but not sure whether it got Free 5 pieces masonry bits.

For wood, there are SDS+ Auger bit, to drill big hole into wood.

But, I really like to have this adapater.. SDS+ -> 6.5mm hex shank

http://www.threewinindustry.com/zpzsdet.asp?SelectID=412

With this I can use my Makita TD0101F impact driver's drill/screw bits.

The other option is to have the sleeve like this.

http://www.dewalt.com/tool-parts/drilling-...shank-sets.aspx

If anyone here found these adaptors, please post here.

I am jusing typical small sized 'spirit-leve'/ 'timbang air' for leveling purpose, such as fixing pictures, curtain rails and fixing bathroom accessories. If you are planning to leveling large object or large area, laser leveler should be ease your job. I also found cheap China made laser leveler @MYR50 , but not sure, how good it is. Ask your hardware store the cheap leveler and how to use it.

BTW, since you don't have 6mm masonry drill bit, get Bosch X5L 6mm, for typical wall anchoring with red plastic wall plug. It is a bit expensive (MYR 29) , but, it is durable, long life and worth every cent you paid. My Makita branded 6mm, which I got free with HR2810, also nice and performs as good as the X5L, and I keep it as a spare.

X5L drill bits are using full carbide tip ,which make them very hard and can drill through rebar steel in concrete. It also make them 5x long lasting than normal masonry drill bits. I am using both Makita and Bosch X5L 6mm drill bits and, both are still in very good condition.

For 'soft' ceramic tiles, which is the typical tiles for typical bathroom, you can use SDS+ masonry bit with DRILL ONLY mode. Use masking tape to prevent dill bit from wondering or slipping. Start slowly and push a bit.

For porcelain or HARD ceramic tiles, get a DIAMOND core dill bits. Most of these drill bits are not SDS+, so, use normal impact driver or use chuck adapter. Refer to our discussions on page 2 of this thread.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Dec 19 2011, 01:39 PM

It is Living Depot ..

Hammer drill? No way... if you want to drill into concrete. There is Makita HR2470 at the store, last time I went there last month.

Hope others can list down a good hw stores here.

Thank you very much for the very valuable infos.

There several type of hammering technology.
1) Pneumatic (compressed air)
See my previous post for the rotary hammer's mechanism.
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2051914/+120#

The compressed air push the striker and hit the bolt, and transfer the punching power to the drill bit.
Originally it use compressed air from air pump, and still being used for very heavy duty task. Then, the advancement in technology, make it possible to create the similar mechanism, but using electric motor and more portable, not to mention more cheaper.
This mechanism can moves drill bit for about 5-20 mm every beat. Rotary hammer has lower bpm (beat per miinute) compared to typical impact percursion drill, but, it chisel more quantity into concrete at the same period of time.

2) Slipping gears. Percussion type hammering.



This simple ribbed gears create ripples, which mooving drill bits about 1-2mm. That why you can see 45000 ipm (impact per minute), which generate vibration which is fatiguing.

Most for the readers in this thread are DIYers and hobbyists, which have VERY LIMITED purchaing power. . Yes, I konw HILTI, Bosch is very good products, but let's customer choose. Keep us informed, and make us make a good choices and purchases.

Thank You

This post has been edited by bahathir: Dec 22 2011, 01:25 PM

Great, and welcom to LYN's Rotary Hammer's Club.

Looking forward to read more about your rotary hammer.

Actually, the diamond is the synthetic diamond. We know that the natural diamond is just a lump ofr carbon/coal that survived millions of years under pressure and heat in earth.

The material for 'diamond' cutter might be boron nitrate, or other hard combinations.

I saw 6mm diamond core drill bit, at 'Keris'or ;Tukang' harwdware stores in Bangi. The price is about MYR19. MYR250 for sets of diamond cores are reasonably cheap.



Ref
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_diamond

The B&D KR45P14 is an impact drill. If you want to driil your brick wall for typical fixing or anchoring 6,8.10mm, I think it is just enough. But, as soon you hit the concrete beam, especially when you want to drill to fix curtain rail, or concrete cement wall or ceiling, you may find it quite troublesome or difficult, like what I had demonstrated in the my youtube clip.

Yeah, the rotary hammer is more expensive, but, it really helps to make drilling work faster and less painful. Honestly, since I bought the rotary hammer, I feel very 'energetic' and very happy to do any drilling tasks and really looking forward for another hole to drill . Previously, with impact drill, I felt,'Waa.. drilling??... aaaarrgh, another hole??? Oooo...ooo.. aarrrrggh.....' it was so boring and metally frustrated. he heh he.

The major differentiate between rotary hammer and impact drill,
1) Chuck: SDS+ vs keyed/keyless chuck
2) Someof the rotary hammers have hammer only mode.
3) Most of the rotary hammers can drill concrete using drill bits bigger 13 mm. If it is 'up to 13mm', it most probably the impact drill.

Finally, it is up to you... You can use impact drill to drill holes into concrete, and just considers the benefit of the rotary hammer. If you want to drill into steel and wood. impact drill might be a better choice, because it can spin/rotate faster.

Side notes:
2 days ago, I went to Ace Harware @MINES. and I found
1) Woodcraft branded SDS+ -> 6.25mm hex adapter : around MYR30, so we can use typical power tool's bits with SDS+ rotary hammer.
2) Woodcraft branded drill dust collection attachment : mmm... around MYR300

Thank you.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Dec 26 2011, 05:02 PM

jinXXX : So how do you find the effectiveness of the envelope?

Yup, the envelope trick is better. but, if someone is doubt about the effectiveness,
my Panasonic 1500W vacuum cleaner has more sucking power

Just went there in the morning... The price for HR2470 is up already.. MYR629 !!! It is on the barcode sticker... I don't know whether you have to ask for the 'sake's price'

They also got,
Bosch DFR2-18RE (18mm) @ MYR 429
AEG 22E (?) : MYR 499

Yeah, the B&D impact drill is still good for typical wall drilling... but, a bit struggle when it hits concrete beam/slab. Example... finxing/anchoring curtain railing. If you lucky, you can use the impact drill without any problem.

Rotary hammer and impack drill can do drill job, but... the experience and feeling are completely different.

Happy holiday and be safe

This post has been edited by bahathir: Jan 20 2012, 04:15 PM

There are some youtube clips showig the 'power' of rotary hammer, and at the end, the rotary hammer wins for concrete/masonry drilling.The CORDED rotary hammer always outperform CORDLESS rotary hammer, in term of speed and PRICE.

Last holidays, I drilled more than 30 holes into the concrete block to experiment with different speed and techniques. Even after more than 100 holes into concrete, the drill bit still good as new. Compare that to impact drill.

I also drilled 2 holes to mount speaker to wall, and seriously, I flet thw wall is too 'SOFT' for rotary hammer! So, I was drilling at 1/4 - 1/2 of the full power, and enjoyng the drilling, and took 5 seconds at very relaxed paced. At full power, it only rooks less than 2 seconds.

HR2470 and DFR 2-26 are for heavy duty professional use, and it make 'small job' just like playing toys

I my case, I am using HR2810, rotary hammer to drill into concrete/wall. and Makita TD-0101F 'impact DRIVER' for screw/nut driving and hole drilling into wood and metal, so, I am covered for most of my DIY jobs.

Thank you.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Jan 27 2012, 03:39 PM

Exactly. The Impact driver is NOT same as the impact drill. it does not have the 'impact'/hammer mode. It also light weight and smaller. Previously I used the impact drill for screw driving, and it was difficult. Impact (screw) driver is much-much easier to drive screw, because of the size and weight, especially at tight spaces.

About power and torque...
My Makita TD-0101F (corded) has more than enough torque to rip/snap off the screw head. Dont be surprise, it already broke a tough Vanadium-Chrome Philips driver bit!!!. It only rated at 100N/m, which IMHO is not as torquy as 165N/m of highend CORDLESS brushless Makita impact driver. I If 100Nm have that kind power, then imagine what 165Nm can do. In contrast, impact DRILL is difficult to control it's torque, and this make screw driving much dificult. It also easily can damage screw's head.

So, based on my limited experiences, I recommend to get a good rotary hammer and impact DRIVER Its really make my jobs easier and enjoyable

This post has been edited by bahathir: Jan 28 2012, 03:58 PM