The higher torque type of impact driver is call impect WRENCH. Its rated from 200 to 2000 Nm. Usually it used in automotive. A small cordLESS impact wrench also capable at 650 Nm!

This post has been edited by bahathir: Jan 28 2012, 08:06 PM

Yes, you are right.

Here is a good youtube clip explaining how impact driver/wrench works.


Impact driver in action...


Enjoy, and thank you.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Jan 29 2012, 09:58 AM

Yeah, I saw that too. Is it the L-shaped rotary hammer? It's look sold with all metal casing, and looks heavy too . If I am not mistaken it has drill and drill + hammer mode, NO hammer only mode. One of our member had a bad experience using the 'hypermarket' cap ayam rotary hammer.. I only tried Boyai brand, which seem to be a good alternative to the well branded one. How about to look at your local hardware shop, and ask them for a cheap, good and relaiable rotary hammer. If possible get the one that has 'chisel/hammer only mode. It's really comes handy...

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Added on January 30, 2012, 9:52 amWelcome to this thread, and hope you find it useful. Here, we share our experience and knowledge using power tools, especially the rotary hammer. Please do post and share your rotary hammer's review/experience here.

Yeah, get the well known brands if you have enough budget. It's really worth every cents you paid for it. You can read entire posts in this thread and find some pointers where to get rotary hammer at a very good bargain price.


Thank you...

This post has been edited by bahathir: Jan 30 2012, 09:53 AM

Congratulations and great to have another rotary hammer user here. Looking forward to read your review of your new toy

From the manual GBH 2-24 DSE (24 mm) seem to be a good choice too. It is a 3 modes rotary hammer (with chiseling mode), and should be enough for everyday use. I never seen it before, but, if it is from Bosch, then nothing will goes wrong about it. If the price is good, then go for it... and don't forget to give your view, here.

TQ

mrPOTATO : Ooo..want to get the HR2810? Great... and it kept in cabinet like precious item?... Double Great. ... HR2470 is much cheaper, lighther and enough for most of DIY tasks. If you are serious to drill a lot, why not to get the HR2810 or bigger such as this middle class heavyweight HR3210C (AVT)., which cost around MYR1k and a strong hands (4kg)

AXM brand ... mmm.. never heard of it... To make sure it is a rotary hammer ,
1) The maximum size of masonry drill bit is MORE than 13mm. Typically, it starts from 16mm.
2) It must use SDS+ drill bits, where you need to slot/slide in the drill bit and it will locked in it's place. No chuck tightening needed.
BTW, if your tool can make your jobs done, then, it is good for you.

mnhamin : MYR250 for Bosch GBH 2-24DSE? Wow, that's a great deal. Is it the new, refurbished or second hand? Ask the tokey all the details and why it is at that price.

TQ.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Feb 8 2012, 07:23 PM

Yes, it is easy to drill into concrete and even easier into typicall brick wall. Now let's do a simple calculation...

Impact drill has about 30,000 to 50,000 ipm (impact per minute) to 'vibrate' the drill bit into masonry. In the video clip, it took 1 minute to drill into the concrete block... as assume it has 30,000 bpm. So, my hands received 30,000 beats of numbing vibration.. In addition, I need to PUSH hard and this increase the feel of the vibrations.

Now, HR2810, rotary hammer, has 4500 bpm, (blows/beats per minute)... and it really blews away the concrete while drilling at full power. It took 3 seconds, and my hands received 225 beats in terms of small and feel good vibration. Rotary hammer has air cushion, which absorb most of the un-comfortable vibartions, and channels it to drill bit. I also not need to push hard. A small force just to keep the rotary hammer in place, and everything is taken care by the rotary hammer. Yes, at certain condition, it 'walks' or inches into concrete by itself.

225 vs 30k beats ... Remember it is for ONE, again, ONE hole. Imagine you need to drill 20, 30, 50 of holes into walll or concrete....

I hope I described the feeling properly.

Anyone with rotary hammer, can share your impression, comparing the 'feel' on the rotary hammer vs impact drill. here.

Thank you.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Feb 9 2012, 09:57 AM

The 150mm and longer drill bits are not that expensive. You can buy them later. Better get a high quality drill bits, such as Makita TCT, Bosch S4L or X5L, which are a bit pricier but, it really long lasting and drill more effectively.

I bought at about that figure. It is rare to find CORDED impact driver these days. Most of the impact drivers are cordless, which are more expensive and high maintenance.

Great choice. the GSR is small and lightweight cordless impact driver. Enough for most of typical screw/nut driving. If you start using impact screw driver, you may not going back for normal (electric) screw driver, or even manual hand screw driver. he heh eh . The best part of impact driver is, it did not slipping which may damaging screw head. When the impact feature kicks in, you can feel the 'power' driving the screw.

Cordless is good for light and medium duty tasks for DIYERs like us, but, if you work all day long making furnitures, corded impact driver is the best in term of econony and durability. I choose CORDED impact driver because, I don't have to buy new battery rpelacement, and I can use it anytime I wanted to use it.

Good luck and happy DIYing.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Feb 17 2012, 10:10 AM

aneip: Thank you for your review, and great to hear that. I hope the rotary hammer can ease your jobs and increases productivity in future. !0mm is still 'kacang' for HR2470.

In this clip, I showed how I drill holes into wall with ceramic tiles.

But the special thing is, I am using rotary hammer with 1/4" hex adapter to use my impact driver's screw bit. A bit awkward and difficult, but it can done...

Enjoy

Yes, it dangerous if you drill through live wires or water pipes. For the purpose, you need to use stud finder to find the location for the wires or piles.

Most of time, before I start drilling, I check for wiring by, lookling at the switches and power outlets location, and avouid them logically. If I am still not confident, I tap the wall several times to find any sound differences.

Alright...another tool to be added in my wish list.. ... the stud finder.

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Added on February 27, 2012, 10:13 amOne more thing.. I changed the topic title to reflect the way to drill into concrete and masonry.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Feb 27 2012, 11:22 AM

Ha ha ha .. yup.. exactly... the tiles are TOO HARD. We already discussed it this thread. Please do browse and hope you can find the answer.

Remember, rotary hammer is optimized for masonry/concrete drilling. It doesn mean it can drill through a hard tiles, instead it can break them into pieces in no time, if you use hammer+drill mode.

Not need to get the exact model which I am using. Most of the members here are using Makita HR2470 and Bosch GBH 2-26, but, if you like the design, then HR2810 is a very nice designed rotary hammer.

I saw the Bosch branded stud finder/scanner somewhere in KL/Selanger, so it might works... Just ask the shop keeper to demonstrate it to you.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Feb 27 2012, 11:35 AM

Good idea.. but, we are scattered around Malaysia or outside..

Actually, I really wish to have a meeting and we bring along our big toys, and let's share our knowleges experiences. If someone can sponsor concrete and wood blocks, screws, then, we can do some practices.


This post has been edited by bahathir: Feb 27 2012, 12:18 PM

Typically, we (the owner) love our tools like toys, and quite difficult to give it away, unles if we let the owner involved too.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Feb 27 2012, 12:24 PM

ozak : Excellent tips...

Mmm..the term is Wear and Tear

THere are stud finder/detector with 'live wire' detector. The live wire emints small amount of radio wave, which ewill be detected by the the specific stud finder. Mmm.. try use portable radio AM. and try put it near live wire.

Nowdays, the pipings are made from PVC, which also quite difficult for the stud finder to find pipes behind it. The highter grage Bosch detector can 'see' the PVC pipes.. but... it is big and ...expensive.