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SUSslimey
post Jun 4 2018, 06:05 PM


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QUOTE(dchk @ Jun 4 2018, 06:03 PM)
I'm getting a new house and looking at another mini renovation.

In my previous house I've renovated, the water tank and the water pump (Grundfos) is placed on the roof.

This time around, after looking at how other countries have implemented water tank and water pump eg Thailand, I wanted to move the water tank and water pump to the ground floor just after the main water inlet.  Wanted to know if this is feasible

The way I look at it, with the water tank at the roof, I will never ever clean the tank due to safety reason and the heat. Also maintenance will be difficult for the water pump, although I've never has any issue with it.

Nevertheless, if I were to go ahead with my plan, what are the drawback. One contractor was telling me, the water pump will be working more as the water need to pump upwards before it gets distributed to the entire house.
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Name and model of pump.

Or you can just go check how much head pressure the pump can provide.

As long as height of house less than the head, all is fine.
SUSslimey
post Aug 2 2018, 05:16 PM


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QUOTE(siauann @ Aug 2 2018, 03:32 PM)
user posted image

hi all

need advise on the water piping connection for my house. the black line is originally from main source to the house. i then added water filter and water pump to use the water from water tank. blue colour is the newly added and installed by the plumber.

problems i face:-

1. after using the water pump which pump out the water from the tank into the house i somehow feel the water pressure is not as good as the original direct source. water pump capacity not good enough? now running water pump, so valve 01 is close all the while.

2.  plumber told me when i want to backflush the water filter, i need to off pump, closed valve 02 & valve 04 and open valve 01.  rclxub.gif  this is to use direct water source. he says if i didnt do this the pressure from water pump might damage the water filter

3. when there is power outage, i need to do the same for above to run direct water source. because no power, the pump not running there will be no water in the house unless switch to direct water source.

i somehow feels that this is not very convenient as u need to turn this on and off here and there. is this common for all water pump users?

there is one time at night raining heavily and suddenly power outage. i have to use umbrella go outside of house to turn all the valve to switch to direct line in order to use water inside the house  sweat.gif

anyone can advise or any modifications to be done?
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1. Checkvalve just before valve 01.
2. Checkvalve rarely spoil so can leave valve 01 open if check valve present.
3. Filter bypass and tank bypass and pump bypass. Good for maintainence and flexibility. Of course need a valve at the bypass. Tank bypass need to have a checkvalve.
4. Check the pressure reading at the pump. Check the pump model and spec and see if the pressure is at what it should be. Sometimes the automatic pump controller need to adjust the pressure setting if it is not properly set.
5. Check valve just after the output of the tank.

This with above modification, all the valves can remain open all the time with all the bypass closed all the time except for the tank bypass.
If power outage, you will have pressure of the main.
And can just backwash without on or off any valve.
SUSslimey
post Aug 3 2018, 10:09 AM


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QUOTE(siauann @ Aug 3 2018, 09:55 AM)
wow. thanks for the helpful advise.  notworthy.gif

1. & 2. - if install checkvalve do i still need to have the valve 01? or can remove/replace with the checkvalve?

3. sorry what does it means do u mean by "bypass" for the filter, tank and pump. is it another piping system?

4. ok will check on the pump model and spec
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Best to leave the valve in place. Valves are still useful for maintainence. Also check valves may fail in future thus having valves as backup is good.

Bypass means a pipe connection that bypasses something. Like a pipe connection that passes between input and output of filter without going through the filter. In case filter leaking or need to remove for maintainence, the bypass is useful. Close connection to filter, open connection of bypass and the whole filter can be easily removed for repair or maintainence.
Water tank bypass is for maintainence of water tank if needed and if pump fail, you will have pressure of mains.
Pump bypass is for easy maintainence of pump in future.

SUSslimey
post Aug 3 2018, 11:18 AM


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QUOTE(siauann @ Aug 3 2018, 10:40 AM)
oh. now i know what is bypass  laugh.gif

if i were to make a bypass line for the filter, tank and pump, the valve will be for both the line and bypass line? or the valve on the equipment itself is sufficient.
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Bypass must have valve. So both.
SUSslimey
post Aug 3 2018, 11:22 AM


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QUOTE(siauann @ Aug 3 2018, 10:40 AM)
oh. now i know what is bypass  laugh.gif

if i were to make a bypass line for the filter, tank and pump, the valve will be for both the line and bypass line? or the valve on the equipment itself is sufficient.
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And also check if pump still pumping even when all the faucet or water outlets are closed.

If pump still pumping means there is a leak or pump pumping water into tank through one of the pipes which is not supposed to happen. If pump on and off cycling means there is a slow leak.
SUSslimey
post Aug 3 2018, 12:33 PM


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QUOTE(siauann @ Aug 3 2018, 11:50 AM)
something went up my mind.

my previous connection is either 2 way:
1. main water to house (without pump)
2. using water from tank (with pump function)

from ur proposal above, both line are running. so meaning every water usage is pressure from the pump? correct me if im wrong?
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To me your current setup is already every place after tank is pump pressure.
My setup is just to allow both lines to be open at the same time with checkvalve to prevent water from pump to go to the parts before tank.
SUSslimey
post Aug 3 2018, 01:20 PM


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QUOTE(siauann @ Aug 3 2018, 01:13 PM)
have a look at the drawing.

normal daily operation is all valve open, water pump on. (except bypass line)

if no power, pump will not works, there will still water from main source into the house.
if washing filter, backflush, there will be no pressure from water pump to water filter because have check valve.

red colour line is the bypass line for water filter. if water filter damage/repair V-F1 & 2 close. V-BP1 & 2 open. normal operation V-BP1 & 2 will be close.

if water tank need repair/maintenance, V-02 & V-03 close. still will have water from main source. valve 04 need close? need install check valve here? water will go to pump?

if water pump need repair/maintenance, V-04 & V-03 close. water from main source will still go to tank. and also go to house.

is this correct? hmm.gif

user posted image
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Seems about right. But the filter bypass only need 1 valve for the bypass. No point having 2.
For tank maintainence no need close v4.
SUSslimey
post Aug 3 2018, 03:23 PM


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QUOTE(siauann @ Aug 3 2018, 02:05 PM)
another thing that still makes me wondering is on the daily operation water usage. the water will be both from water tank and also main source right? then what pressure am i getting? the pressure from the water pump or the pressure from the main source? and everytime water used in the house pump will operate right?
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That’s entirely up to you.
If you find the pressure from the main satisfactory, you may off the pump. Water pressure will be from main mostly and only if you open a lot of faucet then maybe some water from the tank will flow pass checkvalve(the one just after tank)
and pump due to pressure drop(from the water usage) until the water pressure less than pressure of water from tank. Ie, mostly from main pressure. When there is water interruption from main, water will naturally flow from water tank passing the checkvalve and pump to provide water to house.

If main not supplying adequate pressure, just keep the pump on.

If no water coming from main(water interruption).....that will depend on the water pump, make sure it has dry run protection, if it doesn’t , at least make sure there is a freaking big tank that can have enough water all the time, aka never dry run the pump.
SUSslimey
post Aug 4 2018, 10:03 AM


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QUOTE(halcyon27 @ Aug 4 2018, 08:19 AM)
Simultaneous flow creates a pressure build up along the pipes where there two flows will meet usually at the junction.

Check valves prevent contra (opposite) flow. On a cold inlet of a hot water storage heater it prevents the heater from running dry due to siphoning. In a solar heater in the roof, it prevents hot water being siphoned from its inlet into the cold water line to the end point when pump operates which can be disastrous if the cold pipe is not rated to withstand high temperature.

In all cases I've seen, check valves are located after pump but more importantly it's located at a hot water heater or solar water heater cold inlet.
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that don't really answer the questions
SUSslimey
post Mar 25 2019, 09:17 AM


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QUOTE(TopXmeN @ Mar 25 2019, 04:35 AM)
Hi there,

I’ll just intro lil bit about my situation.
House : Semi D Double Storey
Toilet : 3
User : 2
Water flow : direct pipe to kitchen and water tank to other pipes example bathroom.

My problem :
- water pressure from main pipe(gov) consider super slow
- Usually early in the morning until noon(7am-1pm) my house will get no water from main pipe.

I was thinking i could wipe this issue by adding 2 water pump To improve my water pressure, stability and flow.

My thought was :
1- add water pump from main pipe to increase pressure so it will supply into my water tank and kitchen from time to time without failed
2- add water pump near the water tank(roof). To improvise water pressure to all toilets etc.

What you guys think?

Thanks
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I think you should report to your water supply authority regarding the low water pressure

 

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