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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB V15, Saga FLX - It's EVEN Better

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coolkwc
post Oct 3 2011, 08:45 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 3 2011, 07:49 PM)
How come mine can creep along at first gear?

Also manual btw
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He is not familiar with his car ma...


Added on October 3, 2011, 8:46 pm
QUOTE(Trezzec @ Oct 3 2011, 08:29 PM)
confirm new GB..at 2.5k RPM = 90km/h and 3k RPM = 100km/h
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Huhu, good bro...

ericmaxman: Ask ur Proton engineer friend about this leh... tongue.gif

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 3 2011, 08:46 PM
coolkwc
post Oct 6 2011, 07:57 AM

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QUOTE(dares @ Oct 6 2011, 03:14 AM)
If this is true, this is perhaps the best value for money car Proton has ever offered. P2 can sau pei already.
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Even 1.3FLX now can let P2 sau pei la... laugh.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 7 2011, 12:32 PM

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Actually is your car, why not you try it yourself? no harm as long as you not over rev. Explore ur car by ur own is more satisfying than ppl told you how to do, right? Maybe after that just share ur experience with us here?


Added on October 7, 2011, 12:35 pm
QUOTE(skyspaces @ Oct 7 2011, 10:19 AM)
TOP to genting? Use L +SAT?or D?or D +SAT?
share ur experience pls.....planning go cameron.....
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This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 7 2011, 12:35 PM
coolkwc
post Oct 7 2011, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(sg999 @ Oct 7 2011, 01:48 PM)
haha
my friend blm drove 6 ppl up genting TOP
i observed the rpm
keep 3000-4000+
once<3000rpm, the car become lembik tongue.gif
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Haha, then i guess downhill no need to press throttle, becos 6 ppl momentum is enough to go down all the way. biggrin.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 7 2011, 03:19 PM

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Oct 7 2011, 03:03 PM)
7 people in a Satria. brows.gif
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Satria Convertible laugh.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 7 2011, 07:40 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 7 2011, 06:13 PM)
I'm Malaysian whistling.gif
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user posted image
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 11:19 AM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 8 2011, 11:10 AM)
Cant think of anything to DIY

sweat.gif
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Buy dampening material to sound proof your door la... biggrin.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 11:31 AM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 8 2011, 11:25 AM)
need to get from mahihi liao
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Bro, dun get insufflex la, useless and waste of money only...go buy some dampening sheet (STP or others cheaper brand ok too) and stick inside your door...The DIY effort is HUGE and CHALLENGING...
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 11:32 AM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 8 2011, 11:28 AM)
Some people install VS + Grounding Wires, 110km/h cruising RPM lower than before whistling.gif
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Becos during installation they accidentally damage the RPM counter motor, thats why lower reading. rolleyes.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 12:07 PM

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QUOTE(zeone @ Oct 8 2011, 11:41 AM)
Can pls clarify how VS & GC can damage RPM counter motor? Wld help others prevent such damage lo... TQ. notworthy.gif
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I thought this possibility is higher than addon VS and GC alone can lower RPM... unsure.gif whistling.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 8 2011, 12:09 PM)
Some of the best was that they say can improve FC whistling.gif

God know how stabilizing your voltage can increase your mileage per tank whistling.gif
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The ultimate claimed should be the headlamp is BRIGHTER after install VS... thumbup.gif whistling.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 12:17 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 8 2011, 12:13 PM)
Faster pickup? whistling.gif
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Becos VS (Voltage Stabiliser Source) can add in voltage to make the spark plug produce much more spark, thus improve pickup...same theory with brighter headlamp... whistling.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 12:27 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Oct 8 2011, 12:22 PM)
Louder/clearer sound from speakers too whistling.gif
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Increase battery life....becos once installed VS when start engine no need use battery anymore... whistling.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 01:37 PM

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QUOTE(Wuakaka @ Oct 8 2011, 12:47 PM)
i am not gonna say this much,eric,sit in my car and cruise til 140,we shall see the difference,=) only 1 layer of stp is not enuff too...u need at least 1 layer of dampening and sound absortion....used to have 3 layers in 1 single door,the insulation was amazing....well,up to your all to decide, yawn.gif
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i DIY insufflex before, and bought from you as well...

Nothing against you, just my direct comparison between ex-insufflex SP and dampening+SP setup currently.

What my observation on my Saga is this car needs dampening more rather than SP. Furthermore dampening material have SP function as well. When our car ride on those rough surface tarmac (not damage/bumpy road), the cabin inside is just like a 'midbass echo hall', the midbass from the speaker just covered by those bass noise because of car body rattling.

And one important point, rattling noise can't just solved simply by insufflex (well, maybe is my car only), i know alot of user did say it solved it, but also alot of user claim it was useless, so this is debatable. If said block some wind noise and outside vehicle engine noise from door, then acceptable for me.

Since this is DIY, i think choose something better at 1st rather than change afterward, becos i know how torture to change afterward, have to remove those glue residue applied before. If really budget constraint, at least one layer dampening + insufflex if you like, i would say it depends on user budget, just want to share my point of view only. smile.gif

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 8 2011, 01:38 PM
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 01:59 PM

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QUOTE(LittleMin @ Oct 8 2011, 01:54 PM)
DAMN my FLX hv same problem too,
i hv to close my rear boot for few times onli it can be closed properly.

But i dun think Proton wil replace new boot for us,
align it properly for us perhaps at most blink.gif
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They will adjust the arms nut for you...
coolkwc
post Oct 8 2011, 02:26 PM

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QUOTE(LittleMin @ Oct 8 2011, 02:06 PM)
Guys, for soundproofing,
my personal experience on my previous car was,
rubber seal on door frame + bitumen material (i guess tis is d dampening pad that u all mentioned) + superlon material (insufflex) did really handle their job well,
what i can say is miss one of them will affect the effect,
all of them have different uses and effects..

For me bitumen is to BLOCK all the road noise and other noises such as metal rattling noise, so called "mid-bass echo",
while superlon is to ABSORB the rattling noise produced by plastic panel, and it also can absorb some of the noise produced by plastic + metal contact too..
For me they hv different uses smile.gif

Another important thing is WIND NOISE, this one will very obvious if u drive above 100km/h (especially for my previous car which is a KENARI), what i did last time is change all the rubber seal on door frame to the one with at "D sealant",
and i squeeze some superlon inside the front fender there (there's a big hole in the fender if u see from dashboard/front door, this place can bring alot of wind noise into cabin). For my kenari after i squeezed the thing to cover the hole, the wind noise was reduced 40% at least smile.gif

Ohya forgot to mention what I did on my previous car was,
Full car bitumen soundproof which covered:
Front door dual layer, rear door one layer, rear bonnet dual layer (Kenari's rear bonnet is a door actually), plus floor whole covered including spare tyres area, and firewall area too!! Oops i did some on my A-pillar too tongue.gif
While superlon I did it for my rear door panel, some floor area, firewall area, roof top, A pillar plus B pillar. smile.gif


Added on October 8, 2011, 2:13 pmFor our Saga (or at least my FLX),
I noticed the main noise for nw is the road noise (which is killing me), and also the engine noise...
But i don't dare to take out this car's dashboard to do soundproofing la =.="
To kill road noise i guess have to do soundproofing for floor area and most important part which is tyres area dy, but I'm afraid that using bitumen material my FLX wiil heavier alot cry.gif


Added on October 8, 2011, 2:17 pm

Checked dy, I think is misalignment issue sad.gif
Yea, going to ask them adjust for me the next visit to SC doh.gif
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I did all that you did for ur Kenari on my BLM, except firewall now, becos this one can't DIY myself. Furthermore for door is quite overkill, Front door 4 layers + rear door 3 layers.

My gf own a Kenari as well, if direct compare without SP, Saga road noise tends toward midbass frequency region, which might kill ICE and long journey comfortable, and this midbass noise also very hard to kill by SP only, dampening is a must if you talking about serious SP. While Kenari is tends to high frequency range, which can covered by soundproof more than dampening.

For FLX, if you want, do a proper dampening and SP like ur previous Kenari, it will help to reduce road noise and engine noise alot, yes, only 4 doors the outcome is impressed already.

Finally, yes, the car will become heavier, my rear suspension is almost 1cm lower after done all the dampening and SP + 1 large sub at boot, FC wise, the effect is negligible, but the comfortable outcome is just unbeatable.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Oct 8 2011, 02:32 PM
coolkwc
post Oct 10 2011, 03:17 PM

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QUOTE(zeone @ Oct 10 2011, 02:21 PM)
Hi Bros!!  notworthy.gif

Another sharing post here...DIY installation juz done short while ago...finally! haha! thumbup.gif

Yup, it's my latest acquisition from Bro Sh@rty5...a 1-Touch Power Window Module (OEM)... nod.gif

A simple UNplug, plug & plug kinda DIY...

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Well, now the P Win works like my ole Saga wan...long press up/down to open/close the Driver's side window FULLY...all the way to the top and all the way down!!!  thumbup.gif  rclxm9.gif

Now my FL is a little bit more Hi-tech... brows.gif  brows.gif

Join me? rolleyes.gif
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Nice job there.

Actually no need open whole door panel, just the switch panel is enough.
coolkwc
post Oct 12 2011, 11:43 AM

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almost 1 week of driving Kenari instead of my Saga, today drive back my Saga again feel like i'm driving luxury car...hahaha... tongue.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 12 2011, 12:08 PM

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So sometimes if we are bored about our car, go to drive some lousy car for few days you will feel how gratitude we own a Saga... tongue.gif
coolkwc
post Oct 13 2011, 08:48 AM

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QUOTE(kimsim @ Oct 13 2011, 07:52 AM)
Hi, may I know your new car have the window broken issue?

End up how did your solve?

When called to SA and said this is warranty not cover, fixed back at Rm500 just the side window only.
After install at outside workshop the total cost less than <Rm150 smile.gif

Thanks
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Power windows warranty at least got 2 years...u have been conned.

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