Ya lor, ya lor....had that problem since day 1 on driver rear side windows. Found the sound really from the upper part of windows. Used to keep checking the lower part. I think its the rubber in the frame where the windows close up...maybe rubber harden and gap getting bigger, so mirror a bit lose.

Please do let me know if CoSE solved the issue for you.

I'm going on next Wednesday for 5K service and particularly to solve this issue. Somemore think if can ask them to change the internal rubber frame around the windows.

That one is radio vibration wan..

What abt the one at driver rear side window where if you lower it even slightly, no noise but when close tight and go thru bump...got noise krak krak krak and it comes from the top. Nothing to do with radio vibration coz no switch radio also got sound as long as the window is close tight.

I got real leather cleaning cream (Cars brand) but not for rubber. What type of conditioner can be use for that? Is it a temporary measure or truly solve the issue?

The last time I bought in June (H-Line), my SA says 5 years....turns out only 2 years or 50K. Never going to buy from that SA again...all wrong info, even service voucher if I did not found out abt it myself, he never tell.

New car run in period of 1K to 5K, try not to rev above 3.5K rmp, and try stay within 120km/h for the parts to run in properly as a guideline. For PE, its very hard to go below 100km/h if going on highway...very very hard, so I hit 110km/h max during my 1K and b4 5K, 130km/h max.

When I complain even of the sound immediately after they change my rear side windows from Gen2 wan to PE, krak krak sound appear. They use silicon to solve the problem. No sound....but within an hour after I take car...sounds come back. Complain again at 1K, use silicon again, again many test, issue solve.....drive home again, within an hour, come back again...grrr..

So at 5K, what should I do? Have to ask them silicon no use, change rubber?

Coz speed over 200km/h, too fast, copy cannot see number properly but at 110....very clear ler..

I probably will try either rubber softener or just use my existing real leather care to see IF the rubber at the door is the culprit. That one can be change easily if really force to but if the problem comes from rubber hardening in the windows frame itself, darn cialat to change. Not sure SC has the expertise or not since last time change 1 side windows also take half day.

I suspect the gap left by Gen2 windows wrongly install last time exposed the internal rubber in the windows frame at the top (exactly the near the spot where the krak krak sound comes from). So if its not the rubber on top of the door, then sure its the rubber framing the windows, harden. Sometimes when I press the affected window inward hard, it can move in a bit. The other side window don't move at all.

I don't get what you mean by accelerate at high rpm and cruise at low rpm.

You should not use cruise control in hilly area or roads with lots of cornering. Cruise control are meant for highway drive only where its generally a straight road.

In city area with cornering, slowdown, traffics, etc will actually increase your FC consumption as the ECU struggle to maintain its desired speed by increasing and decreasing acceleration constantly and inefficiently. On LONG stretch of straight road, ECU need only increase and decrease very slightly and efficiently to maintain cruising speed....thats what cruise control are meant, not city drive.


When you want to cruise on a long straight road (with bends ok, since speed not reduce, corner cannot lar), switch on the cruise by pressing the button. Then accelerate slowly as usual until reaching your desired speed. Once you reach your target speed, set the cruise speed on by pushing it downward. Thats abt it.

Nothing to do with increasing RPM or anything. Your RPM would NOT should up to 4000 if accelerate up to 70km/h. RPM will react as usual, maybe with a initial spike of a little rpm increase before stabilizing at 70km/h rpm.

Oh...btw, travelling at 70km/h, not very FC saving. The general best is 80km/h to 90km/h. However after driving PE for a couple of months, with its weaker lower end torque but ok mid torque but need 6.8k rpm to reach max torque.....I think travelling at 100km/h save more than 80km/h. Technically wind drag will increase FC with higher speed but I think the higher end torque neutralize that disadvantage and sort of help it better than 80km/h.

Personally I would not recommend 30 weighted lube for Campro without CPS, as lube might be too thin for this revvy engine. Stick with the lube viscosity within the recommended range. That is 40 weighted. Forget abt 50, I think proton just follow old and safest spec last time without considering balance of safety and fuel economy. Even SC using weighted 40 for non CPS campro liao.

I like the radio multi-function way way better than the plain steering wheel on my 2006 City VTEC and 2008 Civic 1.8. Can change volume and station without leaning over to the radio albeit the button is a bit cheapo looking and too small but better than nothing.

H-Line brake also a bit spongy initially but by 1K should be ok liao unless he's comparing to performance brakes....

Just to clarify, I won't come out when talking abt Jelly, Durex and Vaseline coz I need not use any. So got no experience in those stuff due to my users always produce enuf lubrication without me needing to add in more oil and addictives. Since all my users are certified clean, safety is a non-issue...

100K plus civic 1.8 did not even have steering wheel multi-function, talk abt cutting cost.....thats why I say PE steering button very good liao.

If comparing with bigger rides, even H-Line not so very makan esp vs more performance oriented brake pads and system. However for if you drive City and Vios before you will notice all sort of same braking powers....not so makan, I think at most 300C pads. PE H-Line with its heavier weight perform the same as lighter City and Vios (meaning agak agak same braking performance after calc weight ratio thingy, just theory and "feel" only), so I would say the brake system and makan-ness is adequate and on par with most rides at these category.

I've done hard brakes before on both higher speed and lower, would not brake immediately but still braking is adequate enuf (similar to my other rides) that my PE still in 1 piece. Of course before pad bed in, sure scare the hell of out me when I almost bang someone since brake so spongy initially.

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Added on August 22, 2011, 2:26 pmYes....thats right. Can even use W20 weight wan...sure even better accelerate. Can enjoy 1 whole year of very good acceleration then go change engine....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 22 2011, 02:26 PM

Can switch wan...you know the right side button to scan channel forward and backward. Hold it for a couple of second, it will switch between channel that you've program within that mode.

Have to check my PE got padding or not, if not, maybe request to put. No need worry suddenly radiator koyak after warranty (only 50K, should take less than 2 years).

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Added on August 22, 2011, 4:22 pmYa kah...maybe I'll check again. Rarely switch channel thru steering. Just change mode only, 1 for CD, FM1 for 1 english channel (92.9, i think) and FMT for myFM...enuf for me already. Only bored I will switch between same english or chinese channels but thru the radio panel itself...find it mopre convenient rather than hold the button (since I rarely do that).

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 22 2011, 04:22 PM

Actually I also don't if W30 really can use for Campro but based on everyone here, Campro running a bit hot. And its a high rev engine rather than the FC based designed engine.

As most ppl know usually high rev engine require at least 40 weight due to it....so-called high rev nature that usually runs more commonly into the higher range temperature. Weight 30 does not do so well at high temp. Although FS can tolerate high temp more but ours only Group 3+ FS, not true FS, not so sure if 30 can withstand constant high temp.

CPS version used 30 liao. So I guess they alter the design, or cooling system and other specs to lower the temp or rpm ratio, etc. Our cam tak pro unfortuntely still recommend to use 40 and above. I had doubt abt our engine production tolerance after ckdenion and others case....so not dare to take risk at all.

Should be Royal Purple.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 22 2011, 11:57 PM

On Castrol Magnatec and those popular lubes in spare part shops. Banyak fake in the market especially Shell and Castrol. Unless you have a reliable spare part shop to go to, if you get cheaper than market price, there might be a chance its fake.

One of the many symptom of fake lube is .....very fast degrade. There are 2 types of oil used generally for fake. Normal cheapo engine oil put into semi and fully syn....if kena this, at most, quality degrade faster and at 5K change oil, not that much damage, not that much protection either. What most worry is reused oil. These oil when reused...no addictives liao...go thru a process to make oil clear again like new but totally no addictives....engine wear, damange is almost immediate..

I think most of you relate lube turning black = no good. After speaking to quite a few actually working in the lube industry, it is almost ascertain....BLACK got NOTHING to do with lube good or not.

If your engine got soot and contaminants, a good lube will be able to suspend those contaminant in the oil itself. Thus if your engine is a bit dirty, your oil will turn brownish black even at 2-3K mileage.

Its one of the KEY FUNCTION of a good lube to suspend those contaminant in the oil. It had no affect whatsover on the addictives and lubrication function. However when the oil START to turn honey like. Thats the symptom, its at the end of life of the lube where the contaminant is either too much or the addictives to keep the contaminant from forming sludge worn out. We should avoid honeylike oil from forming thus usually 5K mileage oil change is recommended to prevent this from happening. When it happen, some sludge might have been formed, a bit late.

So if your lube start turning black even at 2K, its might means the detergent function is doing its job and the oil is holding those contaminant in suspend...don't worry if using good lube, the addictive will keep the dirt apart from forming sludge.

Not so sure if its fake, if engine lose power or oil turn honeylike after 2-3K, then better check if not engine issue, change the lube out fast if suspect its fake.

Heard even petronas also got fake (not sure) as sometimes even spare part shops also can't differentiate thus unless you got a reliable source, you might not want to risk it. Thats why some buy from petrol station although more expensive. Peace of mind....sure no fake if buy from Petronas station for example. Hypermarket like Tesco also should not have fake coz they will be in trouble if they sell fake even unintentionally.

Tak ada lar...too expensive. Mobil 1 CAN last more than 10k, so does a few FS but the claim usually had some hidden cavaet. A true group 4 FS like redline was designed to last over 15k to 25K.....also with cavaet.

In the end, all lubes no matter what manufacturer use this term "We suggest you follow your owner’s manual recommendation".

One of the common critical cavaet is IT CAN LAST depending on engine make (really depends on what car you drive coz different engine make got different cooling system, lubrication function, etc), driving, weather, road, dust, humidity and traffic conditions.

Due to our Malaysian "severe" driving category and our so-call small and mid-size sedan engine design, I would not recommend 10K mileage. At most by 7K to 8K, should change. Personally I gonna change FS at 5K to 6K max to keep my engine performance at optimum condition (change before lube addictives even started to wear out). Yes, its more costly but if you cannot afford to change at 5K mileage for FS or semi, can always switch to mineral...engine will be even cleaner than using FS 10K change in the end.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 23 2011, 10:16 AM

One of the main reason I still in doubt on magnatec...especially many of you say even after 5K, still mostly golden....mostly golden....not much contaminant suspend in there...where does the contaminant goes. Stick to the engine? Either that or the engine very clean. So far, I have not use a lube than still remain mostly golden after 5K...even those good expensive lube will turn brownish after 5K at our weather and dusty environment...

But we don't know how good and effective is the addictive in tesco brand oil....same with china branded wan kah...

Those proprietry addictives used by branded lube is what makes us goes for them...beside the base oil, they are the one that makes each stands out from each other (brands).

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Added on August 23, 2011, 10:27 amSure its a miracle???...if so, why sell edge at even more expensive price. Edge is doing what most good lube are doing, cleaning the engine as well as suspending the contaminant. Only magnatec very special....

Mmm....maybe magnatec can pulverise the contaminant.....haha....suddenly see all contaminant stick to engine like a magnet...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 23 2011, 10:28 AM

If you ask the lube ppl, they will say viscosity matter the most. U might have the best lube but wrong viscosity, will perform worst than those cheaper lube but right viscosity. Mobil 1 is a good lube and generally quite expensive especially 0W40 (the golden bottle wan).

The one you bought is the silver bottle wan right. I think weight 50 is a bit heavy for our ride, it might be FS but still viscosity is the heavier 50 rather than our recommended balanced performance 40.

Probably more protection due to ability to withstand more heat but FC sure suffer with heavier acceleration. Can use but I would still recommend next time, use back weight 40. You can see Proton also now changing PE oil to weight 40 liliao after being batu for so long and use 50 weighted lube.

Mobil 1 more popular mah last time. It still is. Old times, those other good branded oil did not make it over here. So older ppl only got Mobil 1 to compare. Either way Mobil 1 still one of the few top range FS around.