To clarify, when I say engine oil black, it is not really black. More like light or dark brown BUT still transparent. That is normal.

If it is really a non translucent black.....its time to change oil. Usually the non transparent black also comes with a bit of honeylike feel already and contaminant is over the oil suspension limit. If only 3K mileage, maybe its a low quality lube or a fake.

If used lube at 8K mileage only a bit brownish....I not sure if its detergent function or contaminant suspension is working very well. So still have doubt but maybe magnatec has a different tech for that.

Btw...I mention a few times liao. Magnatec in Malaysia is a semi. Should use up to 5K only. If FS, still debatable..

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Added on August 23, 2011, 11:52 amAutofoam add quite a lot of weight to the car....if our low end torque already underpower liao...don't know how it will turns out for your FC and pulling power after that. Gain silent, loss acceleration power?

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 23 2011, 11:52 AM

Yes.

If it is still very dark brown (almost black) BUT still transparent looking, still ok but if its black and practically non transparent, its best to start planning for oil change. If waited too long, it might start to become honeylike..

Normally if change at 5K, it will rarely hit this level unless its an old engine with lots of deposits inside. However if exceed 5K, better check constantly. Note that this relates to contaminant suspension that can form sludge. Addictives will still start to wear out after 5K in general.

Only exception should be true FS or those extended mileage FS (specifically designed for extra mileage, more longer lasting addictives).

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 23 2011, 10:08 PM

I know many mechanics use 7K lube change schedule for semi and 10K for fs. The last time when I change FS, my mechanic use 10K as next schedule. Then I ask him, he say expensive, so schedule longer. Then I ask him, how long he use FS for his own car and his best schedule change, 5K......***....he himself say 5K as fs actually last only as long as mineral but in order to avoid customer relunctant to use FS....extend lor....

So for semi, try not to exceed 5K service schedule. FS better 5K also but if no money, then 7K max, tho I advise if really no money, use either semi or mineral at service at 5K. Garantee no worries on having black non transparent oil issue.

Also note the blacky stuff is abt contaminant, addictives is still wearing out early.

2ndly, if you always got start in start/stop traffic, should change at 5K coz idling or slow speed, mileage not moving much but engine still goes on. Thus highway runs guys usually have cleaner engine than city drive guys at same milaege.

Darn sien, at CoSE now. Now CoSE implement Streamyx Zone with timed login. If no own ID and use its free internet, have to login once every 1 minute or so.

Everytime type 1 post and add reply, kena jump to login screen and then have to retype again (have to copy and paste before pressing add reply, if not lost type post).

Playing game lagi cialat, every 1 minute hang, then have to login on another screen, then continue again...

So many tar removers in the market. Used those water-based one. Immediately after clean, better wash that part with shampoo to remove any trace of the remover.

Today use internet halfway in CoSE, internet totally down. So I switch to One Piece cartoon stored in my HD. After 1 episode, fall asleep on the couch.

Anyway, I had 2 issues to fix at CoSE. 1 is the sound on right side of engine or maybe under the car coz steering vibrate klank klank when going up/downparking rough ramp. Tot is steering rack. Supposedly fix by retightening undercarriage (again) but added 1 more, refix stab bush. As of now going thru the ramp, no noise anymore.

For rear driver side windows sound....they spray silicon on ALL 4 doors rubbers. However the mechanic mention he fix by adjusting door xxx....forgot what's the word, but he adjusted 1 or both of the 2 arms attaching the door to the chassis...the want that can flex..

As of now totally no noise from going thru bump but lets wait a week to see after silicon gone, sound come back or not.

All in all, handed car in at 8am+ and done by 12:30pm. Not bad, since the mechanic I spoke to seems to know the problems (encountered before) and directly fix rather than the last 2 service mechanic dily daly...nothing fix.

I requested 3.8 liter of engine oil, even typed in the service sheet but check this evening after abt an hour rest...still 0.5 to 1cm above max. I guess, still pour everything in. Wait till 15k and 25K mileage, bring own lube and MARK the volume they should use on the bottle and take back remaining oil.

Oh...I got the syntium bag, so I guess proton really using bottled Syntium 800 rather than those barrels or tongs.

Its still under FOC service and labor. Engine oil, i no need pay, so I don't request take back...should have ask, so can be sure how much they put....just forgot although plan earlier.

The e-Voucher promotion for H-Line. Parts and labor totally FOC up to 20K....albeit 15K have to pay yourself. 20K foc also include spark plugs, brake oil, etc but I don't see atf there, so maybe have to pay for that.

On leave today, spend whole day out till now.

Weight 30 on borderline maybe ok, maybe not, can always try then see 1 or 2 years later engine need to change or not. I also don't know, so why risk it to save some FC. Not worth the price of engine. Last time i say if use weight 20, SURE 1 year later need to upgrade engine to CPS version. As Zen mentioned a few times, our engines are long stroke engine (whatever that means), high rev, higher heat generation requires at least weight 40 to be safe.

CPS uses weight 30, but its designed might have lower the heat generated by engine, so not as hot as original non CPS version.

As for recommended engine oil.....really no recommended wan, I do know even if 2 PE using same lube, they might produce slightly different result. Most swear by semi syn Castrol Magnatec. Shell they say get black fast no good (thats misconception, get black fast might also mean lube doing of of its function to clean engine and suspend contaminants). Unless car lose power before 5K change, I would say lube still working very well....as long as its still dark brown and transparent, not superblack.

Personally, I think most branded lube also ok, just don't use China-branded wan unless you're very sure of its quality and qc. Avoid buying branded popular lube in any spare part shops unless you're VERY familiar of the shops trustworthiness...coz the most damage any brand of lube can do is FAKE brand.

Engine oil are quite corrosive. Putting in thin grade 1 mineral bottle, I'm afraid of chemical seeping into the oil itself. So the best way is still mark the level at apx 0.25 liter oil at the bottle, pour oil until hit that line.

Just check the level this morning, abt 2-3mm above max, so I guess the mechanic DID pour only 3.8 liter. I think this particular mechanic is good and knows what he is doing. Since at 2nd day, both of my issue still has not appear (maybe window silicon not dry yet, will see 1 week later sound appear or not).

If issue really not appear again after a while, I'm going mark him and ask for him if I got complain...

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Added on August 25, 2011, 11:19 pmNowadays, they have the tech to clean debris and metal shard out from the lube to make it look as clean as original. So I don't think need to worry abt the debris. In such case, the worry is totally ZERO addictives. No anti-wear, not rust protection, no contaminant suspension (keeping debris apart), VI worn out so oil no viscosity change, no cold protection. Can imagine the damage even if use once for a few K mileage. If lucky, damage only, engine still runs...some have to do overhaul and changed damaged part becoz of it.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 25 2011, 11:19 PM

When you mention wall koyak, I'm assuming its the sidewall. By koyak, have either 1 of the 2 assumptions, koyak=tear or koyak=crack (small mini lines, etc).

If tear, as long as its just a surface tear, should be ok. However if its its cut deep where its near the the metalic ply cords in the inner layer of tyres, advise to change tyre ASAP. The tyres might fail and burst if that happens.

If its crack with lots of mini lines, the tyre harden and aged liao. No immediate danger but its time to change tyre. Tyres rubber have already degraded and grip will be much less effective even if the treads are still full. If more cracks appear and deepens, the aged tyres might also fail.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 29 2011, 11:36 AM

Easy fix thru SC. Don't do yourself.

That is light brown, not even dark brown. If talking abt contaminants, that color good mah. My City Idetmitsu FS used abt 1K even darker color than that liao.....still wondering if its a fake or not since buy outside. But so far engine still silent, power still there, vibration still minimal, so I guess will see if it degrade later or not.

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Added on August 31, 2011, 7:24 pmPark your car at level ground, cool engine down, then start car and warm up for a short while, then check the level. If its over max, then over max lor.

Also as mention on color, if still light color after over 5K, either your engine very clean or your lube not doing its detergent function or suspension well....

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Added on August 31, 2011, 7:32 pmHaha...if your viscosity addictives wear out only after 2K, can throw that lube away liao. Most lube including mineral can LAST 5K before addictives wear out.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Aug 31 2011, 07:32 PM

When someone tail gate me if there is another ride in front of me (meaning tail gate to force me to give way also useless coz another car in front), I always purposely slow down, 2 car distance, 3 car distance, 4 car distance, the closer they tail gate, the longer the distance, then the moment they swerve out to overtake, I tekan minyak like hell to close the distance to less than 1 car.

Of course, if there is no car in front of me, I give way since I slow speed mah..

Of course see what car tailgate lar...if golf, bmw, audi, always leave max 2 cars or less if not even I tekan habis habis also sometimes they can manage to swerve out, accelerate, swerve in dangerously lar....within 1 car gap distance.

However usually those good cars don't do such extreme dangerous stunt wan.....only myvi and saga do....even half gap sometimes also they buta buta masuk, have to brake hard...

Ya lor...thats both the disadvantage and advantages of our narrow rear windscreen. No pressure being tailgate nowadays with PE coz cannot really see how close they tailgate.

There was an instance when a myvi tailgate me on a fast lane. I'm going avg speed with no car in front. Since did not notice car behind, I kept to the fast lane, jalan a while, suddenly a myvi pop out from my car butt and pecut pass me and cut into my lane....only then I realize I've been tailgate and since he/she never horn, I never really look hard to see a car tailgating very close behind me. If only he follow 1 car away, I would have give way....who ask him/she to tailgate me so close until I don't notice..

Can only happen to PE...

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 2 2011, 01:40 PM

If you have 400K to 500K cash in your acct, you did not need a car to attract chicks....they can smell the dough....they will zero on you automatically....

Aiyoo, I know a one who usually wear a singlet with A tear some more with slipper....owns over 10 buses.

Even better, know 1 rich jap, I knows he own real rolexes and then he go buy fake pulak. Actually ask him why....he mention for more variety...and the key point he mentioned is since everyone knows he's rich, so if he wear a fake, everyone will assume its original. If you see an uncle driving a kereta lembu and wearing a rolex, chances are you will assume its fake even tho it might be original...

Pity Sam's parents if he actually do that.....unless his parents are egging him on....go son, go, don't let him cut you, how come you so slow wan, where is your balls, you know your ah pa, last time when young, ppl call king of drags ("drag race" car racing), now you want ppl to call you queen of drags kah (you know, the one wearing women's clothes)....your ma become my woman when I win her over a drag race wan...

Right on spot. I also warm up AT LEAST half a minute before driving unless I'm in a hurry. As a guide, the moment, the temp move up a bit, you can move the car. Drive and accelerate slowly until it goes to norm temp (slightly below 90). After that rev as you like.