Electrical fuses, water supply and 3 lifts all available on Monday. Yay!

However there is another thing i would like to comment,

For those who are about to install light fittings, ask your installer to check the light points. All my light points (except 1 point) DON'T HAVE A JUNCTION BOX. All they did is drill a hole in the conduit and pull the wire out.

Second, there seems to be no switch for air-con and fan. Asked the developer and they expect us to on/off it using remote only. When want to install, just turn off MCCB. They can provide a switch and water heater point but they can't provide a switch for air-con.

Finally, the switches in living room seems to be arranged funnily. Let me describe with details.

1 "3 way switch" next to 1 "1 way switch"

3 way switch [a b c] | 1 way switch [1]


a,c will be my 2 living room light points, b i'm not sure, my fan works without "b" turning on, could be balcony light (I didn't install)

Then what does the "1" do? If i off the "1", "a,c" won't work. If i on the "1", which ever "a" or "c" on will be turned on.
So.... where is my switch for fan and living room aircon? I don't know...

This post has been edited by scchan107: Feb 21 2012, 08:43 AM

Just need to drop by their office often, poke them and chat with them.

Got mine rectified in exactly 1 month time including tilling. HOWEVER, the moment i installed air-con and tested in my master bedroom, shrinkage crack between column and partition wall immediately show up, AFTER i painted my house

Need to remove the paint and repaint it (Using Nippon 3-in-1 paint to cover hairline crack)

Saw 1 unit Block B high level facing swimming pool with light, another Block C mid low level facing swimming pool with light.

Trash area saw 1 York brand air con...

Anyway, I totally agree to have strict control on location of air con condenser, HOWEVER, such idea should be communicated during construction stage earlier. As long as you provide pipe sleeve (through wall or structure beam) opening during construction, people will definately follow the easy way out via the opening.

And I wonder how many more phone calls I'll receive from them... *SIGH*

Can't comment anything without price tag and actual things to be renovated, more details the better.

Personally I manage to remove the Kleengard. You need to unscrew the chromed ring to unmount the Kleengard itself, pull out the rubber ring beneath the chromed ring to take out the chromed ring, take out magnet ring, unscrew the black ring beneath the sink and the rest will come out.

Sink wise, as long as you can get a sink with 90mm (check Kleengard manual for me pls) you should be safe.

Because sound sort of travel straight line just like light (except bounce/echo), imagine the more car you see (at higher floor), the more car you hear (at higher floor).

Lower floor you might hear a car clearly (DSL house can hear a car passby right in front of your house), higher floor you WILL hear A LOT of car with various volume.

---

Added on March 13, 2012, 4:23 pmHowever 1 thing I must add is, the gasket of the window and door in The Zest is still acceptable, once you close everything (especially main door and yard door), the noise will drop dramatically.

This post has been edited by scchan107: Mar 13 2012, 04:23 PM

Some of them are despo to the point that reno havn't finish, tenant move in already. =.=

Food grinder got electricity does not means your aircon has electricity. If your unit comes with free air-con, just complain to developer (not management), since this is consider defect.

My unit does not comes with free air-con, just bare air-con wiring, no air-con switch available so only way to on and off the air-con electricity is from the DB box, one of the MCCB that is supplying your air-con.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND PEOPLE TO DO THIS

but this is what i will test, use a test pen (screw driver with small bulb to indicate electricity), check your air-con MCCB got electricity supply or not, if MCCB ok, open in-door unit cover, look for the area where the 3 wires (Green is earth, Black is neutral, R/Y/B is live) is connected to the air-con. Normally you should see the screw that is used to tighten the wires, poke your test pen into the screw for live wire and check for electricity.

DO NOT TOUCH any wire even if the test pen does not light up, unless you remove the fuse or turn off the main switch at DB.

If electricity at aircon point is available, check whether the connection of wire is as per manual or not. From power point goes into in-door unit got 1 set wire, from in-door unit to out-door unit will have another set wire.

If electricity is ok, wiring is ok, call supplier, your air-con not ok.

Again, STRONGLY ADVICE DO NOT DIY AIR-CON unless you are experienced.