Making love while the gal is looking at the stars above on a clear night.. How romantic..

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Added on August 4, 2011, 1:17 am@KKW,

Buy a van lah.. Solves ur dilemma..

This post has been edited by xandras: Aug 4 2011, 01:17 AM

Hantam d gal kaw kaw..

Anyone up for TT? Damn Sien lah.. Need to go out.. T.T

BD also.. Tie the gal to the bar & ravage her kaw kaw..

TT anyone??

So true Waiting for her to come back KL.. next week.. I cant wait any longer!!!!

Eh come la.. Join us for TT.. Probably this weekend..

Ur car is still new. Actually the OEM Bosch brake pads provides quite ok bite, but only after u've driven the car for at least a week or two. Contrary to what most ppl said, the OEM brake pads needs bedding in as well. Just drive as u usually would, but be careful with the brakes a little bit. After some time it should be fine. The downside to Bosch pads is that they wear out pretty quickly & generates a lot of brake dust around ur front rims. And of course, the cost to replace it with the same Bosch pads can easily buy u another 2-3 sets of RS 550'C high performance brake pads. But other than that, it's fine.

Gear change may be slightly harder than usual due to the fact that ur car is still new. I've got a friend who owns a Saga BLM, same case. While new his gear & clutch feels firm & hard, but after some time it began to loosen up a little. Think of it as ur virgin bride spending her first night with u. Everything is gonna be tight & firm but after some time it'll loosen up.

The wiper sound that u heard is the relay noise. At a higher speed the noise is inaudible, but at Intermittent or Speed 1 the noise is pretty obvious. This is perfectly normal & happens in all PE. It's possible to eliminate the noise totally by replacing the relay, but the solution is pretty costly & it's a no-brainer's way of spending money.

The ignition light going on & off may be a case of loose O2Sensor or loose fuel cap. Actually, the check engine light represents most, if not all of the sensors in the car from O2Sensor to crank sensor, to fuel pump sensor and even brake light switch sensor. Ur car is still new, so I assume it's still on it's 1st tank of petrol. Do the basics first; check that the petrol cap is locked tightly, and then open up ur front hood & wiggle the green cable that connects to the O2sensor to ensure that it's tight and not moving around. Then drive on for another few days. If the check engine light still comes on, drive to the nearest Proton SC to have it checked with PDT. The PDT will display the error code & the source of error that causes the warning light.

As for the knocking noise, the newer batch of PEs now comes with rubber insulation around the steering assembly pipes. But from my personal experience, the noise will come back after a few months even after the rubber insulation is installed. Just pray hard that the noise doesn't come when u're driving over uneven road. If it does, make a complain & have the SC to change the whole assembly for u F.O.C..

The air-cond hissing noise is pretty normal. That's the compressor working its' @ss off to cool the car down. Try fiddling around with the air-cond temperature setting a little bit. The hissing noise that u heard is the air cond gas being pumped in, while the 'kick' noise that u get is the compressor starting up.

For the RPM thing, check if ur idling RPM is below 1k or at exactly 1k with the air cond on. If it's any higher than that, ur RPM timing is out and this may cause ur FC to shoot up. Fret not, the RPM can be easily adjusted via the car's ECU, so u don't have to worry about anything. And as many other members here already mentioned, the CamPro engine is a high-rev engine compared to many other engines in the market right now, and the climb from 2000-4000 RPM is slightly quicker. So the RPM climb shouldn't be something that u should be worried about.

I guess that answered most, or if not all of ur questions. Happy Persona-ing, and welcome to PPLYN!

The compressor kicks in faster or slower depending on the AC temperature setting in the car. If it is switched to higher temperature (warmer), it kicks in less regularly. If it is switched to lower temperature (cooler), it kicks in more frequently and the compressor runs longer than usual.

It is highly recommended that the brake pump to be replaced, ABS & EBD to be added as well if the rear drum brakes were to be replaced to disc brakes. This is to ensure that the braking force is evenly distributed to all 4 wheels and also to prevent the wheels from locking up in an event of E-braking. The stock brake system & brake pads, however, is adequate for normal & everyday drives. If only the brake pump is replaced, the chances of wheels locking will be higher, and this is extremely dangerous especially if u're going downhill as a light tap on ur brake can lock ur wheels and cause skidding.

U're not getting used to the brake. It's the brake burning/bedding in & getting used to ur feet.

Caltex FTW.. Finally another Caltex supporter.. Caltex Havoline is a good engine oil for PEs, but sadly till now only I myself used it. I've never heard of any other members using Havoline Fully Synthetic on their PEs here yet..

U sure the dashboard not so plastic? Last time I took out the stock Wira dashboard trims around the aircond & HU to replace with new one that looks nicer & feels better. The moment I took it out, I 'accidentally' dropped it (on purpose actually, to test it's strength after 14 years). It dropped to the ground & literally shattered to a thousand bits. Just so brittle & fragile. The accessory shop fella told me that this happened because of Malaysian weather and also because the plastic used are of low grade. So make sure u tint ur car & cover it with a dashboard shade if u were to park under the sun for a long time to protect ur dashboard & ur interior trims.

This post has been edited by xandras: Aug 4 2011, 11:21 PM

Quite good lah, but only if u pair it with RS pads.

If u're driving H-line & u still feel that the dashboard is very plastic, then u obviously haven't felt the B/M-line PE dash yet. For me, I think that the PE's dashboard is already quite nice to the touch compared to the likes of the previous generation Myvi and even the Forte. Kia is smart, the Forte's dash feels nice, but only at the place that u usually touch. Try to touch the areas that u don't usually touch, like under the steering console, the middle console, the lower part of the door trim, the seat belt panel at the B-pillar. The quality of plastic they used throughout the car is uneven, and they concentrated on making the place that u commonly touch feels good & nice while everywhere else is crap. Don't believe me? Go to Kia's showroom & find out for urself. Kia had to cut costs here & there to make the Forte affordable (cheap for some), but they did it in a pretty tricky yet smart way.

RM 600 + poisoned with other things also..

VLT 63%? That's quite high actually.. xD If u wanna do something else in ur car, then settle for VLT below 60%..

VLR 20%.. This is the reflection rate.. Depends if u like ur windows to be reflective or look dark.

IRR 78%. Now.. This 1, the higher the better if u wanna protect ur dashboard & keep ur car cool. InfraRed heat Rejected. But do note that the higher this point is on ur windshield, ur SmartTag/gate remote control may not be able to work.

UHR 99%. Another important point, Ultra Violet Heat Reflected. This is important as we all know UV rays are harmful even to our skin. Can cause cancer wan lah.

VLT = The lower, the darker ur tint is. Mine is 55% VLT with 17% VLR, so it's reflective when there's light outside the car, but u can see into the car when it's dark outside. Which means during day time or under street light at night it's harder to see in the car. UHR is now at 99% for most middle to high range tint, so no worries about that. IRR higher better, but it depends what's ur priority. If u wan heat rejection only, then go as high as ur budget allows. Anything below 87% will ensure that ur SmartTag & remote control works properly from inside the car. Mine is at 85%, just nice.

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Added on August 4, 2011, 11:58 pmBrake pump? If u're a fan of locking ur wheels then go ahead la..

Yeap..

RM 450 for the rotor, RM 150 for the brake pads.

Correct wat. The comparison suits the situation ma.

This post has been edited by xandras: Aug 4 2011, 11:58 PM

U got service ur brakes or not? Brake fluid level? Change brake fluid?

Wah..Thread damn dead sia.. Nobody replying questions d..

when u coming back KL? Duwan join us for tt d?

Sei kei Lou

ABS only or the full set with disc brakes? New set with disc brakes, EBD & brake pump = RM 3.5k.

Ur Aircond vent greasy can be caused by the air from outside leaking in. Smoke from exhaust contains a bit of petrol, n u might have left the air cond to take in air from outside. Try to readjust the knob.. If problem still persists bring it to SC & have them to tighten the valve for u..

He's trying to say his forest is very thick.. in the forest got 1 tall coconut tree with 2 coconuts on the ground..

@Jason,

Caltex dun have any loyalty card.. That's the downside of it..

Wira 1.3 magma engine lah..1.5 & above where got carburettor engine.. But I still like the 1.8.. Top speed 230km/h

The oem pads are perfect whether or not it's on H line or B/M line. It's adequate, but H line better cos got ABS n 4 disc brakes.

H line dashboard has got a more leathery feel to it. B/M line feels a bit rougher.

Haha.. Should be the same engine as the iswara la..

Now on magnatec.. Last time Havoline.. Van be bought at petrol station, but expect Market price la..

Ur Persona H line?

Havoline is a controlled brand, they usually only sell it at Caltex SCs or petrol station, while Castrol n others can be bought from supermarkets n spare part shops. More of a measure to prevent counterfeiting. I think performance wise the Havoline is much better..

Standard market price for semi/fully loh.. RM 109 for semi, RM 219 for fully..

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Added on August 5, 2011, 8:34 amThat was about 4-5 months ago.. Not sure if market price has changed since.. Long time never check at petrol station d..

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Added on August 5, 2011, 8:37 amProbably balancing problem lah.. But heck, ur tyre goin to botak d u still dare to drive so fast ka?

This post has been edited by xandras: Aug 5 2011, 08:37 AM

Walao.. If PE soundproof worse than Wira they wont call it Wira Replacement Model liao..

I think PE's soundproofing, especially the H-line is very good d lah compared to most Proton models before this including the Perdana.. Of course if it's a wee bit worse than Civic, but hey, u get what u paid for.. And Proton really tried to improve their QC already..

The old City soundproof quite good, but the new Honda City soundproof sux.. Verified this by sitting in my aunt's City and then my fren's NHC.. The old City got better soundproof & wind noise reduction, but the new City wind noise really bad.. PE better..

Gay... Welcome to PPLYN!

It depends heavily on ur budget, actually. If ur budget is high, u can get better tyres for maximum performance & safety, and this can go up to RM 3k for 16 inch rim + tyre or RM4k for 17 inch rim + tyre NOT INCLUDING TRADE IN. Of course, if u're thinking of changing the rims, then please do so when ur car is still new as u can get up to RM 1200 for ur stock alloy rim + tyre trade in.. For steel rims/pasu bunga, the trade in value while new may go as high as RM 800-900 depending on ur negotiation skills.

If ur budget low, then just settle for a set of nice 16 inch rims using okok tyre such as the Continental CC5 or Yokohama C-drive by trading in ur stock wheels..

Done already? Check the receipt printout to see what is diagnosed as the problem that caused ur overheating issue..

All busy ma.. Where got like u..

U very active in these kind of topics hor?