u still can shift gear, but ur GB will overheat and losing some power from engine...

burning smell will not cause a problem.. u clutch plate still can be used as long the plate is still thick lor.. =)

so to say... even if you go for touge you use this method? Heel on the brake and toes on the pedal?

I see I see

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Added on July 8, 2011, 2:04 pmif the clutch is totally burnt, the friction material is screwed. No matter how thick is it, it just wont grip anymore. Once you take the clutch out of the tranny you'll see a rainbow'ish color along the friction plate.

If it's fine now, then it'll be fine until the clutch disc finishes

This post has been edited by ThunderGod_Cid: Jul 8 2011, 02:04 PM

read carefully bro...TS already stated the burning smell come out from front engine bay while he stopped aside

new method kot..

that was only a one-off time. and the car was find after that, no?

MY own car I drive and got stuck in Karak jam for 4hours, so gruesome and brutal that I boiled the clutch fluid and tat I basically had no more clutch and stopped by the road side and that the clutch discs were also fried and burning up at that period at that time and still, it's fine today?

So you're saying your brake pads fade once, and then must throw away already? Probably, if you brake with your heels hahhahaha

I'm facing same problem,
Luckly i found this thred..

But one more question..
after 2 or 3 days used..the burn smell still there even on normal driving..
Is this consider as a problem?
But there were no slip problem..

i was hopping after certain period..the smell can be faded after the burning area come back to normal by the friction..

It going to caused me 700++ to change it..😭

when was the last tie you changed you clutch?

Its Clutch burning smell, I kena also..until smoking...with my old Benz...old car handbrake tak makan, so had to balance the clutch on an small hill during jam..but after that can drive normally...no probs..

I used to drive manual tranny for years.

Don't do clutch balancing for more than 2 seconds.
Clutch is either fully pressed, or fully released.

If need to stop, step on brake and FULLY depress clutch (or disengage gear). Do not depress it halfway.
If not pro enough, then use hand-brake.

When need to creep/move forward, then only release clutch, balance it, immediate swap right leg from brake and balance the accelerator for a smooth go. All in, it should just take 0.5-1.0 seconds for any average Joe drivers like me.
When done properly, the car will not roll back. Or, the car may start to roll back (feel it), but within that 0.5 seconds, once clutch is engaging/engaged, the car will move forward but not surge too much also.

Never have any burning smell on my manual tranny car before, even Genting/Cameron/etc. or stuck in continuous jam.

It is persona, milage about 50K..consider still early for having changes..

Hey bro... better get the rear brake service/fix, you'll never know when you need to park your car the the slope, unless u use a brick to press on the foot brake.

You are right, moving between brake and accelerator has to be fast, and always fully engage/release the clutch, or else need to use hand brake. Using excessive friction at the clutch to hold the car will generate heat and it is quite damaging.

Maybe can lazy a bit, just stop, wait for space for 2 cars then only start moving slowly again... i don't think driver behind will be cruel enough to horn you gua...

Anyway, i once followed an auto car craw up the spiral multi-level car park in very slow speed (no jam + 100% clear) till my car engine about to die off at 1st gear @#$%. Hope auto drivers be considerate for their driving speed...

Haha...sold the car off oledi..