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 Renovation Extreme Work In Progress, Sharing my house renovation journey.

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weikee
post Jul 14 2011, 09:34 PM

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How much did you burn to get the permit?
weikee
post Jul 14 2011, 10:22 PM

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Cheap woh.

weikee
post Jul 14 2011, 10:59 PM

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There is no standard pricing.
weikee
post Jul 15 2011, 12:26 AM

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Mine is about 5k, come with 1K "tong".
weikee
post Jul 15 2011, 09:10 AM

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The agent told me claim back is very troublesome so I use all the 1K deposit for dump


Added on July 15, 2011, 9:10 amThe agent told me claim back is very troublesome so I use all the 1K deposit for dump

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 15 2011, 09:10 AM
weikee
post Jul 15 2011, 10:10 AM

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Anyway, already use up the tong, and not enough. Must well spend it since already spend the money. Rely them to post and Malaysia Postal service really hopeless.
weikee
post Jul 17 2011, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Jul 17 2011, 10:54 AM)
you can just use one tong only (from Alam Flora) and for the rest of the tongs required, you can get from outside suppliers. very much cheaper
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Make sure the cheap supplier dump to the correct / approved location. If they dump roadside the authority will come after the house owner too. Read in paper few time before.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 17 2011, 09:14 PM
weikee
post Jul 18 2011, 11:53 PM

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For plaster ceiling, ask the installer to put fiberglass. In Chinese you tell them to put "Chou", is to stick between the aluminum rod and the board.
weikee
post Jul 19 2011, 12:31 AM

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Don't know. This is suggest by my BiL, he told me is common now. He is a site supervisor. The fiberglass should not be expensive. What they do just dip the fiberglass to some liquid, and just throw on top of the metal strip that screw the gypsy board. When is dry, it will hold it better, and more solid.

He told his contractor to do my house with this method too. The price i got for the plaster ceiling job is much cheaper than what i find in lowyat. (is contractor price)

When my house plaster ceiling job start i put some picture. Maybe in 3 weeks time.
weikee
post Jul 25 2011, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(tiensong @ Jul 25 2011, 11:51 AM)
for the car porch, do we need to put steel at the bottom of the floor?
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Yes, cause there chances of the concrete resting on the soil may loose up. And concrete will crack. If the floor is already RC then no need.
weikee
post Jul 27 2011, 11:31 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Jul 27 2011, 11:16 PM)
A note of interest:-
My place has become Motel de Indon  tongue.gif

Bed n Board   +  Cafe de Indon

user posted imageuser posted image
sweat.gif
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Mine too. Your worker still better. Mine live without a proper toilet as all my 3 toilet are remove and relocate. Only setup temporary WC on the un-tiles, no door toilet.

This post has been edited by weikee: Jul 27 2011, 11:31 PM
weikee
post Aug 3 2011, 02:05 PM

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You doing the RC slab for parking porch right? how many feet? the pipe insert should be sufficient. Mine is extend 6ft slab and pipe per pillar (two pillar)


weikee
post Aug 3 2011, 07:44 PM

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Just something you may want to consider. The cheap security door always jam, and end up dismantle entire door for replacement. This is from my locksmith friend.
weikee
post Aug 3 2011, 09:24 PM

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QUOTE(kochin @ Aug 3 2011, 08:48 PM)
bro,
saw your picture on the rear extension.
might be too late but it would be worth your while to have slightly higher wet kitchen area. do not have your roof to be aligned with the others. where possible, have it about a feet higher.
when you construct higher than norm, chances are your neighbour will need to construct lower than yours.
my problem was, i constructed mine first at normal height. my bloody neighbour constructed higher and his roof water spillover to mine! sad.gif
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RC or normal clay roof? if spillover is only the side water, that is ok. But if its the front portion, is the neighbor contractor responsible to add a gutter.
weikee
post Aug 3 2011, 10:33 PM

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QUOTE(ycs @ Aug 3 2011, 10:21 PM)
what is the purpose of putting pvc pipes into the columns?
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to hide the gutter, on the floor, the pipe will have a L bend out and connect to a bigger pipe under the floor and flow out to the drain.
weikee
post Aug 7 2011, 09:44 PM

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remove the conventional roof. Use RC slab. But you need to make sure you have another beam / supporting pillar around 12 to 15'


Added on August 7, 2011, 9:46 pmAhh, you remove 2 major pillars. Where you adding new one to support?

user posted image



This post has been edited by weikee: Aug 7 2011, 09:46 PM
weikee
post Aug 8 2011, 09:23 PM

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QUOTE(phoenix69 @ Aug 8 2011, 04:59 PM)
The major pillar/columm is still there, next to the door.
They are going to set up another 2 new corner pillar/columm at the new corner of the extended wall(Extreme left and right),
then put a new RC beam across joining the 2 new pillar and the existing pillar providing support.  flex.gif
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The way my contractor build is made the new pillar, wait 2 weeks before knock down the pillar.

Between end to end of the beam i hope the max is no more than 16' or less, my contractor told me better no more than 16' else very dangerous.
weikee
post Aug 8 2011, 09:37 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 8 2011, 09:27 PM)
If the structural beam has been properly designed for, it can even go up to 20' clear span. No problem.
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Tell me about it.

When my contractor remove the plaster of the old house beam and pillar. Dam we were surprise. One of the the pillar was build not tall enough, then latter add on the Concrete, We can see one pillar two difference tone of concrete and the top part was like 1 feet of difference color concrete before the beam is land on.
weikee
post Aug 8 2011, 10:00 PM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 8 2011, 09:49 PM)
That could also mean that the 1st concreting of the column was not high enough. Thus a 2nd casting of the column and therefore you see the different in colour. All this is OK provided the column's steel bars are extended into the concrete beam.
However, if the column was stopped short and the gap between the top of the column and the bottom of the beam was patch up with cement mortar/ with bricks, then it is a cause for concern.
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Yeah, my contractor told me too, but funny the concrete so easy to peal out. I can use screwdriver and push out the cement and rock.

Anyway, we never want to hack and see the bar, but instead add another pillar in front (below my parking porch), and extend the beam. So now my house center beam is support with 3 pillars. <6feet beam>+<4feet beam>+<16feet beam>+ ("+" represent pillar)


weikee
post Aug 9 2011, 10:39 AM

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QUOTE(kelvyn @ Aug 9 2011, 10:28 AM)
Am not sure what your contractor have done. I am not implying that what he has done is wrong or anything. smile.gif
Introducing additional supports at the wrong location can be detrimental as the structure could behave differently from it original intention.

e.g. This is a case that I have come across in a house renovation project years back.
Some car porch are designed as a cantilever structure. Meaning that there is no support at the extreme end. (for aesthetic reason) The contractor then added a support as the house owner wanted to add a RC slab over the car porch. The structure collapse but luckily no one was around when it happened.

For safety sake, I really hope your contractor knows what he is doing.
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Yes, there is additional on both end my 6' parking porch RC Slab, and one in the center. I told my contractor i need the Beam to support additional load for future 6' skylight temper glass, and minimal weight is about 1 Ton for the beam need to support.

The new center beam, and pillar is additional support to my house center beam, and first floor extension out.

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