i think that's oil pressure warning lamp, not brake related... have you checked your engine oil level? if it's low, might have a leak somewhere, try topping up and see if the warning goes away. if the engine oil level is at required levels but still lamp is on, maybe there is other fault or even sensor is faulty? best to check with your regular mechanic... don't ignore it

disclaimer: i have never encountered this issue before, and not sure but check this -

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.kiev.ua/Manua...wee9520/11A.pdf

Could be item number 22 Oil Pressure Switch... maybe you can locate it and try reseating it, or maybe even replacing it if it's not too expensive.

But I think still you should go get advise from mechanic, oil pressure no joke don't play play...

Mine also just slightly above 10km/l....

conti-like FC!!!

yeah mine also similar...

try fold down the rear seat and see if the sound goes away... if it does, you know your culprit... me i just live with it or blast the cd player

ngek ngek is caused by the linkages/hinges of the pedal. take WD40 with the long red tube, and try and aim and spray around the pedal from under the driver footwell area. should be ok after that. if not inspect the clutch cable and if sound is from there time to change i think it's around RM40 for the original.

manual usually NEVER wrong when it comes to specifications...

as prev post mentioned, make sure you start the engine and get it to warm operating temp (thermostat opened) so that coolant can circulate. there will be air pockets in the system and you don't want to find out later on the highway seeing the temp going up

that's called burping the car engine

disclaimer: i'm not a mechanic, just DIY.

my way of flushing the cooling system.

1. remove thermostat - you need to buy the thermostat gasket + some thermostat sealant in preparation
2. fix back without thermostat
3. add in radiator flush to radiator and start engine, let it run for a while until warm or follow instructions on bottle
4. let engine cool down, remove radiator plug at bottom and let all drain out.
5. fill with water, and repeat cycle maybe 2-3 times to make sure all radiator flush cleared out from system.
6. wait for engine to completely cool down (few hours!). for final 'rinse', remove top radiator hose from engine block side.
7. start engine and fill water FROM top of radiator so that fresh clean water can go through entire system, it will come out from top of engine block where you removed the hose (that's where the water goes back into radiator on top then goes back into engine block via bottom hose.
8. now flush out all coolant, install back thermostat + gasket and fill up with water + coolant.

while doing #7 above, don't hard rev the engine, just idle should do but monitor the temp. also make sure engine truly cool down, because you don't want cool water getting to hot hot engine, not a good scenario to be in.

very very elaborate, i don't even know worth the time and effort sometimes only do it very very rarely

p/s: oh to add, for step #7, please COVER the distributor with plastic to protect from water splash. otherwise after done this, your car won't be able to start. learnt this the HARD way


This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Oct 16 2011, 10:57 AM

i went from stock rim 175/70r13 to proton rim 14" with 185/60r14 and didn't notice any diff in fuel consumption. just to share this info.

I'm also using performax with standard spring, feel it's a bit hard but i think quite good but then again, i'm not a motorhead

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Oct 18 2011, 10:00 PM

Sorry bro, no idea... Only can tell you i'm using it with my standard springs and seems ok xcept a bit stiff for me. Should have gone for normal kayaba gas or something... But i guess handling is a bit better and cornering too.

this one? it's cheap that's for sure... make sure no bad history (e.g. taxi before as you said, or worse major accident before), if you're looking for cheap car/min depreciation, i think you can't go wrong with iswara but do shop around and make sure it's not a problematic car.

http://www.mudah.my/Proton+Iswara+Sedan+1+...GV-11907154.htm

This post has been edited by poolcarpet: Oct 19 2011, 07:42 AM

unfortunately i didn't measure before/after, so i don't know if lowered.... i don't feel it's lower though

ori i think around RM160. local one is about RM60. i just recently changed to local one, ok for me but i guess ori will be nicer.

quite easy to diy change. i think 2-3 screws only all visible from top when you open the bonnet. then you need to transplant the light bulb + holder from old to new housing.

does iswara have built in reverse sensor module? i bought mine from ebay (china) and installed myself. not too difficult but routing the wire from the back to the dashboard meter is difficult without removing the seat. mine has led display, showing distance and amber/red warning leds as i get close. i think around RM50 only + diy free but i personally think it's quite difficult to diy, need at least 1/2 day as you need to remove bumper and wire everything up nicely, so if you can get installer to do for you say RM30-50 i'd suggest that. on average I guess reverse sensor should cost about RM100-130 incl. installation.

it's not complicated the control box has the sockets for the power, monitor/display, and the 2 or 4 sensors. just plug and play! the complicated part is just in routing the wiring the one i'm using is EXACTLY like the one in this video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRNNxAvdiHw

More than 300? Are you serious? Wow those acc shop really making a fortune! I should also start part time install reverse sensor with lcd display...

mine is 4 point sensor but i install only 2.... RM50... so looks like big big profit for the acc shops!

fantastic and very good explanation!! just to add the entire cooling system is pressurized, so if you have a leak somewhere, it will cause a loss in pressure and that may cause problems. So check that all hoses are clamped properly, make sure there are no leaks and as I've read somewhere, one of the easiest, first thing you can do is check and replace the radiator cap. Sometimes problems are caused by an old, worn out radiator cap. Doesn't cost much go to the spare part shop and buy the correct cap and try.

seems slightly overpriced but if tip top condition i guess it's fair