hey guys, i'm about to receive my new city next week. was wondering, what kind of security is recommended? is pedal lock sufficient enough? if so, any brands recommended? thx

my dad's 4years old honda city has a weird problem..

whenever the car hits 60km/h.. the car starts to vibrate..

the vibration was like when ur car is driving over uneven surface road..

anyone experience this problem?

so are you using Connex or both steering lock & pedal lock?
thx for your feedback btw

looking from the url, it fits out steering. Since Honda City steering is universal for a few variants such as the civic FD, Fit/Jazz.

i am hitting 42k km ... average tank has always been 400 ... average 400, bad days 350, good days 500(lil bit more on highways)

mine is city driving ... always get stuck in jam ... and i tekan quite crazy at times ...

possible if you dont tekan ... keep contant 2 - 3k rpm

i dont, hit 100 on normal roads, highways 140 ... and i get 400

btw, are LDP or federal considered as highway? LOL ...

I never ever touch 500 per full tank .. even 480km ... the best is 470++ but normally around 430-450 km ..

when i drove to Penang, i can hit 300km on 1/2 tank ...

but then once reach the bridge ... gone case jam jam jam

but yeah i guess can hit 600 easy if travel highway 100%

im a New owner ........ with Car Plate WWW .... wahahah

hey guys,

SA told me i will be getting my white e-spec next week

anything i should look out for when collecting my car? and any common issues? because frankly, all cars do.

At 140 km/h on 5th gear, it's at 3000 rpm.
Yes, should be lower RPM than regular 4 speed AT.

Yes again, there's an impact on FC (when upshift too early) and can be observed on the vacuum FC meter gauge on the dash. Paddles shift works quite like manual but it has its safeguard electronics in place so that you won't go over-revving.

I find in D mode, shifting up is fast (at lower RPM) rather than my preference (in mnaual mode) at higher RPM (for more acceleration). Shifting up early is good for FC if you prefer gradual acceleration.

anyone can comment on noise insulation for FL city? does it really improve or just a marketing gimmick..

recently i test drove the new civic and am impress with the cabin quietness..

hey guys, plan to change my 15'' rim to 17'' rim

so those sifu that changed their rim to 17'', how was it? need feedback regarding pros and cons

not that i didnt had a chance, but i dont bother to test as i own the pre-FL (if improve then i'll be jelly.. hehe)
as long there is improvement, should be ok as current also not bad.. need to spend 600-700 for door and firewall SP, then ok oredi lor..

Just came back from the sc, been having this weird buzzing humming sound when ever i accelerate ... sounded very electrical like when the compressor kicked in ...

Test drove with the mechanic and he mention its like when the hybrid motor kick in .... hahahaha but he did agreed its very much electrical ...

He jacked it up and found out there is double metal shielding near the exhaust right after the engine which was sort of bent and the vibration when accelerating is causing that weird eletrical like buzzing ...

He fixed and sound was gone ...

Weird

Hi Sifu here. I heard tappett sound on my engine very loud even my car engine is hot. My car only 19k km. Is this normal to city? Thanks

Hi Winterwish, Yes the sound is exactly likdis. And after i drove about 30mins and the sound is still there was so loud, is it normal?

yes,i want to know too if anyone have change the stock 185/55 tyre to 205/50 without changing the stock rim(honda city e-spec)

HI all, I just get my new city e-spec since last week. Just saw you guys discussing about tyre, if not mistaken, the original tyre coming with is 185/55 continental brand.

If not mistaken Continental is famous on quiet, but it still quite noisy in high speed. Please advise me the brand xxx/xx (sorry dont what is this so called)

That's good to hear,i'm currently thinking to get michelin ps3 or good year eagle directional 5,seems michelin ps3 price is steeper than the one for good year.which do you think is better?

Guys, they will fit, but it will look weird. Given the offset on the E spec rims, the tyres will jut out and will not look proportional to the rims and cars. You can always ask the tyre shop to try one on for you. Go to a shop you're familiar with or a more professional one, they wont mind showing u how it looks when fitted onto rim (provided you're really going to buy a set of tyres from them). I recommend Shah Alam Tyres & Auto Accessories Sdn Bhd Look for Jeff Liow (012-2997 021) Friendly and knowledgeable chap. Their FB Page.

I replaced mine from stock tyres to Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 R205/45ZR17 (changed rims) and now 195/55 R16 87V TL YOKOHAMA ADVAN A10. (back to stock rims) Read more: here.

The wider 205 tyres will go nicely with 17" rims. However, 195/55/R16 is perfect for the E spec rims. Just slightly wider than the stock tyre, it provides protection for the rims. From my experience this 195 definitely feels more grippy when manoeuvring over corners.

Here's how the 205 will fare on our 16" rims. It does jut out abit but to my preference it is still acceptable, same as 195 it also can serve as a purpose to protect the rims too. Up to one's preference, if 205 jut out is acceptable then can consider it or else 195 is a good choice. Of coz 205 will provide better rolling resistance and the same time better cornerings and stability but wider tyre means higher FC hehe ..

Just get new car, dont't have spare money to change it. But would like to know whether the quality is good or bad

BTW just realized Honda City Pick Up is not really good as i think lol~