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 PROTON SAGA BLM & FL CLUB V13

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zeone
post Jul 15 2011, 06:44 PM

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Hi...another mini "adventure" of mine...DIY thing... wink.gif

Yup, rber the Gasket, Drain Plug item that normally SCs do NOT replace but still BILLED BLM/FL owners during services?

Discovery! This Gasket is made of Copper! Frankly such gaskets (washers, as they are also called esp if made of metal) do NOT usually need replacement unless badly crushed due2 numerous prolonged over-tightening. rclxms.gif

Here is pic I took of the Drain Plug & its "Gasket"... I had the opportunity becoz I'd just done an Engine Oil change midway between services (now @3500+ Km).

NB. I hv been doing that for all my "NEW" cars during their "early days"...haha! Since I can do so myself, it's just the cost of the oil...my own philosophy(?)...hehe... tongue.gif

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


ps. All along I'd thought the gasket was the "fibre" type...which is easily crushed/damaged. However, this "mini-adventure" has proven that wrong!! sad.gif

This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 15 2011, 06:56 PM
zeone
post Jul 15 2011, 09:42 PM

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QUOTE(budakdegilz @ Jul 15 2011, 08:52 PM)
hi blm & fl owner...
i'm quiet interest to get a NEW saga...
but one thing i don't like about FL was the front head lamp.....
is it possible without any modification to fit in BLM head lamp to the new FL??? notworthy.gif
*
Nope. Like ericmaxman said, yu gotta swap front end...So wanna accept his offer? wink.gif
zeone
post Jul 16 2011, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(rajivshm @ Jul 16 2011, 12:30 PM)
also, saw this in FL fb group. is this true?? i doubt. wat sifu's here have to say abt it?

minyak fully sintetik ni tksesuai utk enjin2 kereta yg baru..tp sebaiknya di gunakan utk kereta yg enjinnya da lebih 10 thn..sementara utk enjin2 baru [kurang dr 5 thn] sebaiknya guna jer minyak mineral biasa..
*
IMHO all types (mineral, semi or fully synthetic) can be used in all normal road use cars...as long as they fulfill the conditions set by the car manufacturers in their User Manuals, namely:

1. SAE Grade eg 5W50, 10W40, 5W30 etc;
2. API Certification eg SJ/SL/SM/SN

After that, the choice is YOURS...mainly dependent on yr budget! wink.gif
zeone
post Jul 16 2011, 03:49 PM

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QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Jul 16 2011, 02:59 PM)
yea bro.. i dun think thats right.. many ppl would go for syn oil when the car is new and moves on to semi when car gets older.. budget is another thing.. everytime service use full syn also sakit leh..
*
Yup, using fully syn oil when car is old has been found 2b one possible cause of engine seals/gasket leaks caused by more efficient cleansing properties of modern fully syn oils!! nod.gif icon_rolleyes.gif
zeone
post Jul 16 2011, 03:56 PM

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For those interested :
Mobil 1 Fully Syn 5W50 oil now on offer @Tesco - RM149 only! Also Castrol Magnatec Semi 10W40 @abt RM89(?). whistling.gif wink.gif


Added on July 16, 2011, 4:03 pm@rajivshm : Cars of "yesteryears" with carbs needed such warming-up 2bring up the engine temerature to normal running temp for a smooth drive off.
However, since intro of autochokes for carbs, that became obsolete! thumbup.gif

Now with ECU & MPI etc, what do yu think? Haha! rclxms.gif thumbup.gif rclxm9.gif

This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 16 2011, 04:03 PM
zeone
post Jul 16 2011, 06:21 PM

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QUOTE(rajivshm @ Jul 16 2011, 05:14 PM)
ya waste fuel.. thanks to all for answering..
but i thought wen car idle (park overnight) all d engine oil will back to tank, and then when u start need some time to make it cover the engine (forgot which part) again... isnt that true? so can just start n drive? LoL... 2.5 months i warm up 5 mins everyday. may b coz of tat got bad fc ... hahaha

so none of u guys warm up ur car?
*
Sound advice? Don't warm up but drive slowly till reaches normal operating temp. rclxms.gif

Reasoning?

1. Engine revs higher when cold...chk yr rev counter. More fuel also metered out by ECU for cold engine. AND to speed up yr engine warming up, it's FASTER when yu DRIVE instead of idle.
2. Your FC at idle = 0 Km/h !! sad.gif So for every sec you idle, yu are burning up fuel!! A waste! 5 mins every day? Just imagine how much fuel yu've been burning... whistling.gif
It's reported in 1 forum that a 4.3L car can burn up to 4 1/2L of fuel while idling for 2 hrs!! That is roughly almost 40ml per minute!! rolleyes.gif

Quote from 1 forum : "It appears... And an idling engine remains "cold" much longer than one that is being driven. Anything that can be done to shorten the length of time an engine runs cold will lengthen it's life and reduce fuel cost. And even in that cold, fuel wasting state, the engine can still be propelling the car down the road instead of sitting in the driveway."

Hope above info helps... icon_rolleyes.gif

ps. Re "all d engine oil will back to tank...etc", pls hv confidence that modern engine oils do stick to engine parts eg Castrol Magnatec's slogan...hehe...
So no fear, ok? Juz don't rev high when engine is cold... icon_idea.gif

This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 16 2011, 06:24 PM
zeone
post Jul 16 2011, 06:27 PM

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QUOTE(rajivshm @ Jul 16 2011, 06:23 PM)
thanks. never gona warm up after this....
lucky i checked with you guys..

now looking for info on pvc/pu seat covers... anyone using them? isit too hot wen parked under the sun?
thanks
*
UR alwaz welcomed!! biggrin.gif

Re pvc seat covers, they wld definitely be "hotter" under the sun than fabric covers... rolleyes.gif
But easier to maintain...hehe... whistling.gif
zeone
post Jul 17 2011, 07:25 AM

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QUOTE(Shahtrughna @ Jul 17 2011, 12:17)
1) The lock thing I mentioned in (4), is that normal? Also, I heard that we can get a brake-activated autolock done for the car, is there a place to do it? And will it void warranty?
*
Yup, yu can. I'm trying 2get one such PnP module 4my 1.3FL. My Accessory Shop fren is trying 2order order one 4me but no luck yet... sad.gif

And nope, it won't void warranty cos no wires wld b cut 2install it. rclxms.gif thumbup.gif
zeone
post Jul 17 2011, 02:53 PM

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QUOTE(omara86 @ Jul 17 2011, 11:32 AM)
I installed my auto-lock when brake press for RM150 including alarm system & shock sensor...
*
Replaced Ori alarm? So no more warranty on alarm system parts ( except alarm module covered by new alarm supplier )?
What alarm sys yu installed? Better than Ori?
zeone
post Jul 17 2011, 04:04 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jul 17 2011, 03:19 PM)
i think any alarm out there is better than our stock ones
our alarm is very very basic...just lock/unlock, alarm and some boot sensor only
*
Any recommendations for a PnP Alarm replacement for Ori sys BUT with xtra useful security features? Cost? TQ.
zeone
post Jul 17 2011, 07:51 PM

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QUOTE(omara86 @ Jul 17 2011, 06:24 PM)
Mine 1 is non branded china made... The most important factor when i'm choosing alarm is, shock sensor...
*
I had a kinda pendulum-activated alarm in a much older ride.

However, it became a nuisance!

When ppl knew my car had that kinda alarm, they'd keep on "bumping" it! And the alarm wld keep on blasting away...
Till I'd to turn it off!

It became useless then cos kenot activate it...or else...!! sad.gif
zeone
post Jul 17 2011, 09:07 PM

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QUOTE(sg999 @ Jul 17 2011, 08:23 PM)
1st space drop at 76km@@
*
Bars @Fuel Tank Indicator is NOT a valid nor good/reliable way to judge/measure FC... sad.gif
So pls dun b too overly concerned/worried of such stats, ok? wink.gif

If wanna keep an eye on yr avg FC, try use the more reliable steps to determine a still rough but more reliable way as previously mentioned in earlier posts/threads or other car forums. icon_rolleyes.gif
zeone
post Jul 18 2011, 08:16 AM

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Re alarms, frankly I think that car owners hv caught themselves most times than car thieves!! Agreed? rclxm9.gif

Do car alarms really deter potential car thieves? I doubt it...mayb those petty thieves BUT definitely NOT the pro ones! sad.gif

We can view lots of vids in forums & on YouTube how cars had been stolen in spite of all kinds of security eg alarms, various pedal locks & immobilizers!

So is it a waste of good $$$? rolleyes.gif

YOU tell me... whistling.gif
zeone
post Jul 18 2011, 11:12 AM

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QUOTE(k_eyezax @ Jul 18 2011, 09:31 AM)
[i]Hallo2... Goodmorning Guys...
Last week was very tiring....huhu..done a few simple mod for my BoLD 6060...hiihii..

1. Change new door rubber

2. Installed a custom padding for each door

3. Change new plastic cover for the door

4. Change new HU.
*
Tks, bro, 4sharing! rclxms.gif

Wat's most important = [B]YOU
are HAPPY! Enjoy... thumbup.gif

A few ??? :
1. Izzit difficult 2close doors after adding new rubbers like that? Thicker than ori, rite?
2. Door rubbers fitted by Seller? Cost?
3. HU Unit dun seem 2fit well...gap on the right. sad.gif

TQ in adv.

zeone
post Jul 18 2011, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(xshiro @ Jul 18 2011, 11:30 AM)
they (proton) has done break-in already at the factory...
*
I've learnt that ALL new engines are test-run after assembly b4 installation in2 vehicles.
However, anyone knows for how long? And @wat engine speed(s)? TQ.
zeone
post Jul 18 2011, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(yngchung @ Jul 18 2011, 11:58 AM)
lol, mine is auto 1.. Cant maintain the rev at 6.3k rpm constant n i drove 100kmph max for this car only.. Btw, i feel the car is very hot.. I can feel the heat when i standing at front of the car.. Even i switch off the engine for half hour.. :s any solutions? Is it radiator problem?
*
Try standing same nxt to a other cars of similar category of this generation...haha! icon_idea.gif
Dun feel the heat?

Do tell us which car, ok? icon_rolleyes.gif
zeone
post Jul 18 2011, 07:55 PM

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QUOTE(MR_alien @ Jul 18 2011, 07:24 PM)
send it back to SC
*
Yup, only way to go...sorry... sad.gif

That's the prob with modern day cars...being so "HiTech" & thus its main ops are computerised ie controlled by the ECU. nod.gif

However, that makes it nigh impossible for the "ordinary foreman" to diagnose & overcome many probs cos specific sophisticated electronic equipment is needed! rolleyes.gif

Of course, there's also the Good...not hv 2depend on & suffer fr human error? Haha! whistling.gif

ps. BTW the ECU is located near the base of the Centre Console towards the front of the car... icon_rolleyes.gif

This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 18 2011, 09:55 PM
zeone
post Jul 19 2011, 08:37 AM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Jul 19 2011, 07:49 AM)
ECU tuned, Spark plugs and air filter changed, RM123
*
RM123...Cheap? Feel spark plugs & air filter are wat's known as "collateral damage"!! Haha! whistling.gif

ps. ECU re-tuning is FOC under warranty, rite?
zeone
post Jul 19 2011, 09:46 AM

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QUOTE(sleepwalker_00 @ Jul 19 2011, 09:25 AM)
My blm will jerk for a second when I speed up to 100km/h, is that normal??

when jerk, I heard slip sound, 'cit' once.
*
My 1.3 Auto has a slight jerk if & when:
1. RPM @arnd 4k...IAFM kicking in!
2. Aircon compressor kicks in...most probably yr prob? Coz yu hv "cit" sound mayb caused by belt slipping abit?

If can reproduce sound every time, best 2send 2SC if under warranty... wink.gif
zeone
post Jul 19 2011, 01:53 PM

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QUOTE(vostro @ Jul 19 2011, 12:30 PM)
good choice.. i didn't go through the forum before my first service and the SA told me about the magentrap and made it sound so important.. that thing cost about rm68!
*
In Car Engines which were made of cast iron or similar, one can really see & wld b really surprised to see the amount of tiny metal (iron/steel) filings that were stuck onto the magnetic oil drain plugs (std fittings for such engines).
These magnetic drain plugs had 2b cleaned @each oil change. wink.gif

Now most engines are composed of various alloys (if not wrong)...and car manufacturers appear 2hv dispensed with use of such magnetic drain plugs. whistling.gif


Added on July 19, 2011, 2:36 pmps. For Pros & Cons of using magnetic drain plugs, pls visit :
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/magnetic-...pros-and-cons#b

pps. Also discovered that most modern engines are made fr Aluminium alloy & bearings fr Copper/Brass.

This post has been edited by zeone: Jul 19 2011, 02:36 PM

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