Haven't done any serious shooting lately. Some of my very old photos when I was actively shooting.


85mm f/1.4




135mm f/2.0





Well, useless because most people use ACR or LR to edit in which all built-in settings (except WB info) are ignored.

Capture NX2 or View NX2 will take into account all in-camera settings.



Well, picture control, noise reduction etc does not apply if you use ACR etc. If you use Capture NX2 or ViewNX2, yes, they are applied automatically unless you switch them off inside the camera BEFORE the capture.

Well, with Capture NX2 and to a certain extend the View NX2, these settings can also be accessed and switched off inside the editor AFTER the shot.



Just a tip. You can actually shoot NEF / RAW only and later use a tool to extract the JPG embedded inside NEF / RAW file after you copy it to your hardisk. That way you save space on your CF/SD card.

Errr, Nikon's 135mm f/2.0 is also beautiful.

Wah, is that a Nikon AF 135mm f/2.0. Just got it?

Nikon may be slow but once they upgrade a particular lens, you can bet that it's a lens that everybody would benchmark against.

I rather have updated lenses that have been tested properly than updating lenses just for the sake of doing it.

Difficult to say. I notice Canon users usually up saturation and use their built-in Picture Styles which makes skintones horrible when viewed at the back of the camera LCD. Once they shoot RAW and upload it though ACR/LR, it looks ok. That's because like Nikon also, all Canon Picture Styles settings are ignored and makes skintones more pleasing when processed through ACR/LR.

The f/2.0 is the maximum aperture on the 135mm lens. As with any other lens, to have the lens sharp WIDE OPEN at f/2.0 is a mark of a good quality lens.

I started out with Lowepro. They are very good bags for the money (buy in Singapore for cheaper price) but after a while, I tried to get away with camera bags that would shout to other people that there are expensive camera equipment inside.

Then I went for Crumpler and Kata for smaller loads. But now, there's too many fake Crumplers around.

Just a few months back when I was looking for a bigger bag but compact enough for handcarry to put in the overhead compartment in the plane, I told myself I should go with Thinkthank instead. I'm glad I did and I'm very pleased with the quality and for the amount of equipment that it can carry. I hope this one does not get copied also.

LCD monitors are always on the cold side by default. Once calibrated, it should look slightly warm.

Not bad. Keep up the good work.

Nice one.

You have already answered your own question. The 24-70mm f/2.8 will be nice for wedding on FX.

Dust IN the lens element? Does it affect your pics? If not, I would just leave it.

Brand new around 5.8k?

On DX, the 24-70 is not wide anymore. I believe if you want to be into wedding photography, a wide angle lens is a necessity.

If you're primarily into DX and would foresee yourself with the D7000 for quite a while longer, the 17-55 is nice. If you upgrade FX later, the 17-55 would still hold it's value when you sell it later.

Yup. Most ideal on FX. Excellent on DX too but the 24mm end is not wide enough.

Canon had this range for the longest time when Nikon only had the old (but still excellent) AF-S 28-70mm f/2.8.

I like the lighting but IMO, I think I rather have the full figure of the model while maintaining the same framing (model on the left side) or if not, maintain same framing (model on the left side) but zoom in closer from stomach upwards and include the background on top right.

It's one of the least used features on the D700 for me at least. I don't think I've activated it.

I use the grid lines in the viewfinder to position the camera horizontal.

Yup. My Fn button is also programmed to flash off.

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Added on June 1, 2011, 11:15 amPerhaps yes if the background is included.

This post has been edited by jchue73: Jun 1 2011, 11:15 AM

You'll probably get the Blair Witch Project film effect. Some people find it desirable. But I will be mabuk after watching it.

Yeah, I thought it was a very good attempt at fixing the pic even though a rush job. Well done.

If you're comfortable with the field of view (FoV) and focal length of the old 50mm lens, then the new AF-S 50mm f/1.8G would be great. The 35mm f/1.8G offers a little bit of wider angle compared to the 50mm. Depends on the shooter, but the 35mm may be more of your type than the 50mm. Try it out and see if you like it.

Agree that at 17mm, it's almost impossible to get that kind of subject isolation.

Close to that would be a 24mm f/1.4.

I'll just hold the reflector for Celciuz.

17mm focal length is quite impossible to get bokeh like that even if there is such a thing as 17mm f/1.4 shooting wide open ! You would need to PP.

My guess is that if you can hypothetically shoot shoot at f/1.4 and 17mm focal length at that distance, you'd get almost everything in focus.

I believe colour of the ND is not important. Just get the common one (grey). If you want effects, play around with PP/WB.

Not so much if you have 2 bodies.

But yes, if I change lenses on location, I do it in the bag. When the camera body remains open while opening the lens cap, I use my hand to temporarily cover the hole on the camera body.

You have it?

When you use a monopod, you don't need a ballhead. You just screw the monopod directly to the lens foot. It's more secured. You usually carry the lens + body + monopod by holding the monopod.

Sorry, I quoted the wrong person. My post was in reference to elainor's picture.

Take the ballhead off and you'll see a stud screw. That screw can be mounted directly on the lens foot. Don't worry about scratching the lens foot. Your monopod should have some rubber padding where the surface touches the lens foot.

If you have to angle the camera body, you have the monopod too high up for the type of shooting required. I would lower the monopod so much so I can swing from left to right smoothly. Try it and you would appreciate the stability of the mount when the monopod screws directly on the lens foot.

I think we can safely say that generally those good 3rd party batteries like Photix would not create problems for the camera. I believe the issue is more to do with the battery costing just slightly less than Nikon original and does not last as long as the original Nikon. That being the case, just buy Nikon originals.

Wahlau... Very thin DoF. Opening the original pic can see misai.

Why would you want to do that?

Take out the UV filter if you want to put on ND filter.

+1 Have to wait very long que.





Nice. Less is more in this case.

The skintones are a little funky. What did you do?

Very good attempt. You used flash?

If you're serious into macros, you would need a tripod. Handheld is very frustrating especially on manual focus.

With a tripod, you can take your time to fine tune by moving the tripod / camera back or front slowly when you're in manual focus.

In my experience, using flash is very easy to get great skintones.

Nice.



What kind of reflector was that? Coloured one? What WB did you use? In Vivid mode?

Skintones much better here.

Check your screen. Looks fine here.

LOL Hell hath no fury like a woman scorned !

If these people can bash a more expensive Lambo with sledge hammers, lenses are peanuts.

Saw in the papers that there is something on at the Penang Botanical Gardens.

Base on the rubber that covers the connectors, it's a D300/D300s.

Taken with a 5DMk II with EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L USM.

Disclaimer: Don't shoot me if it does not work.

Get married fast. Have kids. Take cute baby photos with your gear that makes your wife shed a tear. Nothing will come in between you and the camera.

There are a lot of rechargeable battery operated with multiple LEDs. Saves battery and very bright. Is that what you are looking for?

Change to a higher WB so that the light source from the LED light does not look too white.

D3 FPS like machine gun? Have you tried to shoot the D700 with a MB-D10 battery grip?

I think pic soft is more towards focusing error of the photographer / equipment. Any reasonably good LCD should be able to show you if your pics are soft especially when you yourself have the original files.

The monitor you use would determine if the WB used is correct. Just have the monitor calibrated and your output should be fine.

Sometimes bulk sellers use the same photos they can get off from the internet. Just a typical photo of the product. Especially when the seller is doing volume sales. If the seller is selling his own personal items, then I would suspect the item if they have the same equipment serial number from another website.

That's not original then.

When talking about skintones, for me the colour needs to be realistic to be correct. I don't care too much if I can see pimples but the tone needs to be correct under a given lighting.

You still have the D90? What lenses do you already have?

If you already got the required lenses, upgrading to a D7000 would be a great step. D300s if you're into wildlife photography where AF performance is more important. Or perhaps if you have the necessary FX lenses, you could skip those two bodies and head up straight to a D700 body that wold reward you in abundance.

If not, investing in a proper lens like the 14-24 or the 24-70 would be ideal for your photography interest.

Errr, did I mention D300 as FX?

OT: Since when Camry 2009 got keyless function?

How you guys use your camera lah? Touch wood but I've never needed to replace any oof the rubbers on my Nikon bodies.