What's your number plate? lol...

IINM the 1.6 SX should be around 1,315kg, EX 1,300kg. 2.0 SX is around 1,350kg. Heavy car yo...

Yes it does.

The best way is to go for a test drive. You'll find the paddle shift faster than manual because there's no need to step on the clutch. Ultimately it all depends on what gear you are in and what you want the GB to do. You can't drop 4 gears all at once and expect the car to redline.

I don't think CVT is any slower than manual in the sense of the time it takes to engage the chosen ratio since there's no clutch involved. Unless you're talking about comparing against a short throw gearstick and racing clutch.

It's not underpowered, esp the current 6-sp version. But it's not overpowered either lol... Just nice.

Just buy a window cleaning solution and rub vigorously on the stained areas.

Maybe you'd like to consider silicon wipers that won't leave any residue? But some of them might skip a bit cos it really wipes clean unlike the useless OEM wipers. My car is 8 mths old and the wipers are already starting to fail. Summore I hardly park my car under the sun.

I suspect it's because the 4-speeder uses an older, heavier torque converter while the 6-speeder uses a lighter TC. Just a thought Furthermore, the 6-speeder is a Hyundai in-house design while the older GB was by Aisin or some other third party manufacturer. Probably still not matured as you say.

But what's this jerking that you guys are talking about? How come my 6-speeder is smooth as silk? Whenever the GB changes up the ECU is supposed to feather the throttle even if our foot is stepping on it. IMO this GB is even smoother than my previous Civic FD's 5-speeder.

This post has been edited by gregy: Nov 14 2011, 06:08 PM

I suggest you try another dealership. My family member drives a 6-sp 1.6SX and I drive a 6-sp 2.0SX. Neither of us have felt this clear jerk in between gears that you talk about. Maybe the test car had been well and truly "tested" by many prospects leading to this jerkiness.

Prior to us booking our rides, we tested a 1.6 4-sp at the Glenmarie dealership and that car was quite slow and not very responsive and boomy as we stepped on it. Three ppl in the car, my bro, the SA and I.

As for the difference between 4-sp and 6-sp in torque, yes the torque is the same but the extra gears help the engine rev up faster, i.e., bring it up to its power band sweet spot. However, that only happens if the ECU drops a cog or two as you step on the pedal. If you accelerate in the same gear, let's say 5th or 6th and you don't step on the throttle hard enough for the cogs to gear down to 4th or 3rd then there's no advantage, in fact this scenario would actually favor the 4-sp.

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Added on November 15, 2011, 10:29 amNot seasoned but matured in the engineering sense.

This post has been edited by gregy: Nov 15 2011, 10:29 AM

Did you try using synthetic ATF?

You got it right mate. Even my 2.0 feels slightly under when fully loaded with 3 or 4 passengers plus the driver, what more for the 1.6 right?

Actually it's better to top up with distilled or filtered water because tap water contains a lot of contaminants like rust, minerals etc that could clog up the cooling system.

http://www.autoclaims.com.my/agv1/home.php

Since we're on the topic of complaints. They should have added a door lock button on the centre console like what I saw in the Pug 308. More convenient for the front or rear passenger to access the lock/unlock function in case the driver needs to leave the car unattended for a while. As it is, the front passenger has to reach all the way to the driver's side to lock/unlock the car. A bit ol' skool.

Also, I would have preferred multi-link or at least McPherson struts at the rear instead of torsion beam. Handling a bit iffy around the bends.

Lastly, the GB is quite reluctant to gear down during descents. A bit dangerous esp when taking a downhill bend. There should have been an "L" position on the gear stick to allow us to switch immediately to a lower gear. It is not so much a problem for us 2.0 6-sp users as we can immediately downshift with the paddle shifters, but for the 1.6 owners they have to switch the stick over to (+ -) mode to gear down. I don't see why they had to take that function away from the 1.6SX. Of all the silly things they omitted from the 1.6, this has got to be the silliest.

I don't understand what you mean by OEM in this case. I didn't know that Naza was selling this?

It's quite simple, really. If it's not an item that they sell, they won't provide warranty for it. And if your wireman screws up the wiring somehow and causes something else to malfunction, you will lose the warranty on that. By removing the factory head unit you will have lost warranty on that straightaway. And after that you better not have any rattles or cricket orchestra playing in your dashboard area, cos if you complain after that they will blame your contractor for it.

Basically, anything you modify (except maybe Hello Kitty headrest pillows) will render that item and anything related to it, void.

Just remember this, warranty claim is a loss making concern, any manufacturer will do their best to avoid claims as much as possible.

Bro, there's a whole lot more to the SX than just the rims

No need to mention I suppose?

Besides, the rims are one of, if not the easiest to replace if one were to buy an EX. The other things in the SX package are hard to install without incurring too much cost and voiding warranty.

Looks similar to the current gen MD Elantra. Just as the current Forte platform was borrowed from the previous version HD Avante/Elantra but instead of multilink rear suspension we get torsion beam (cheaper to make but doesn't handle as well)

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Added on December 16, 2011, 6:18 pmThe fabric seats in the 1.6SX are quite comfy and soft. It's not really that important. Actually, if you compared the front seats between 1.6SX and 2.0SX, the former are actually more comfy and body hugging as they have a fuller support to wrap the passengers while the latter's seats are a bit flat.


This post has been edited by gregy: Dec 16 2011, 06:18 PM

The value as dictated by banking policy. Banks calculate loan tenures this way. Anyway the residual value difference between an end 2011 car and an early 2012 car is minimal. The additional freebies you get is to offset this difference.

Try and approach an SA for a 2012 car in March and see if you can get as many freebies as buying now? You'll find them singing a different tune cos the principal will not approve higher discounts, hence the SAs won't have much savings to pass on to their customers.

Then you should make some calls to KL/PJ SAs. There's nothing in the rule book that says you can't buy your car from an outstation branch, especially if they can give you better offers.

In your car registration card will be stated year of manufacture and date of registration.

This post has been edited by gregy: Dec 20 2011, 12:38 AM

A bit far fetched, or maybe the resale value is THAT good? LOL...

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Added on December 24, 2011, 12:53 amI have Guangdao LV, Pivot Spark Earth, Guangdao Photo Conducted, Pipercross Venom intake. Slight pickup improvement, whole lot of growl, no FC change. LOL...

Must save up for a catback exhaust and DK tuning.

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Added on December 24, 2011, 12:55 amHey, anyone here using Hyundai fully synthetic engine oil instead of that crappy Petronas Syntium 3000? An SC suggested Hyundai oil as I complained about the lousy shit they put in my car for the last two services. I enquired about BYO oil but they said kenot...

This post has been edited by gregy: Dec 24 2011, 12:55 AM