check ur email...

Oh please....these private stuffs....promise is promise....as u ald admit in FB not to publicize it ald....now u do it here?? u dun wan me refund izzit by finding fault here? i said, no publicize...this is private stuff, so plz make it private...Jimmy ald agree, and apologize for publicize, u should too....

let me juz warn u...if u publicize this topic again, u can kick ur ass goodbye on full refund...and i m serious on this....if u wan refund, plz keep ur mouth shut till i refund, at most private message through here, facebook or sms....1 more comment ANYWHERE....u will regret the decision u made....

mine just 1 year....left wiper aluminium thingy ald start 2 come out....lucky i changed b4 it scratch my front screen

mine is old batch....new batch FC supposing way better...

my old batch ald can give me good mileage for full tank in 100% city drive...around 420+/-km for BHP/Esso/Mobil/Caltex....shell can go up 450+/-km but lesser power, while petronas can go for 435+/-....

HW i tested b4, full tank alor setar to melaka...no problem, of coz stick to 100km/h-110km/h except PG HW/Ipoh mountain winding HW = 70-90km/h

mostly stock, except simota drop-in air filter and exhaust system(better dun mod exhaust...i regretted it)

full tank usually pump @ RM90-94
currently half tank tahan for 1 week(still got another half-tank) ald clocked 266km mileage..

maybe got related to ATF problem or ECU setting...

i dunno, but my 1.6 4spd seems powerful enuf 4 me...all i did was juz proper maintenance, follow service guide to service the car....no major problem....but 4 spd i think 1st to 2nd gear, u can feel jerk, while 2nd-3rd n 3rd to 4th are smooth....i m thinking of applying AT cooling system like KFC did....cost is abit expensive, but worth it if want protect your gearbox from long run...

i m juz using normal caltex ATF oil provided by SC....

If u all wan more power, better FC...pls do some simple mod..or perhaps change stuffs :
1. Fully synthetic oil, prefer 5W-30 Petronas Syn5000 for better FC, better engine protection, and more power
2. Denso Iridium spark plug for better ignition, FC and better spark system
3. Change to Simota/K&N drop-in filter for better air flow, thus more air flow, better power
4. Change battery to larger capacity type...like from 55D(stock) to N70/75D to provide better electricity flow throughout ur car, better grounding, more power generates, as all electronic systems works better. also let ur alternator wun push dat hard due to insufficient electricity flow.
5. Make sure have proper grounding throughout whole car, especially those who had lighting mods and audio(amp/subwoofer) mods.
6. Apply Voltage stabilizer to stabilize ur battery current flow...
7. (Optional) use RON97 petrol all times or V-Power RACING petrol.
8. apply extra AT cooling system for better protection of heating ur gearbox. better cooling = Gearbox works better, thus gear shifts, torque n hp will release all out without any problems and lesser feel of jerking(can't say no jerks at all as our gb not CVT type)...
9. use ALL original KIA Hyundai parts, no local made stuffs or any other 3rd party type...i mean for spare parts...
10. Sent ur car to checkup regularly and check for updates in ECU for trial n errors detected by GDS.
11. make sure all sensors working n engine timing, idling timing all are correct.
12. check power steering oil, engine oil, ATF oil, clean spark plug, clean air filter, check air-cond filter, radiator spare tank water level and petrol level before long distance or once every 2 weeks.....

This post has been edited by XionCity: Nov 15 2011, 01:29 PM

I m selling my KIA Forte 1.6SX 4spd for 63k on January.... please let me know if any1 wans buy it....everything good, soundproof, reverse camera with monitor, simota air filter, exhaust redone....knight rider LEDs.....so sad wan let go my baby, but i m in need of cash....so no choice...plz let me knw if any1 interested.....the only thing nid 2 do is paint job(which is not included)...scratches all over the car >.<

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Added on December 8, 2011, 1:56 amall repairs will b done....b4 i go KL....plz help, as i need money...

This post has been edited by XionCity: Dec 8 2011, 01:56 AM

do 10k service not juz save ur time go SC, oso save ur labour charges cost...after 3 free labour charges, estimate for 5k intervals will be 10-11k mileage. but if for 10k service, u can extend another 10k service again, that makes 20k mileage service with free labour charges.
futuremore, after 3 free service labour, the next 5k mileage service which is 15-16k mileage, will need waste RM70-1xx for labour, then 20k-21k mileage again waste around that figure again....but if u use 10k service, ur next service is 30k-31k mileage. which only cost around that figure for 1 time service...

Then u r missing the point of getting SX version, u should get EX version instead.....
SX came with 17'' rims, bcoz of the gripness and provide more traction to the ground. 1 of the biggest point of our forte's less bodyroll and stability is from the rim itself....no matter u change light weight rim or ori heavy rim, both 17'' will serve their same purpose...I wan 17'' rims is bcoz of this very reason, my FC not high(of coz in city drive sure makan more)....
If u wan better FC, as well u get Toyota VIOS or Ford Fiesta....coz they're lighter, and engine more tune to fuel economical type.....
Forte SX is more about safety, that's why 17'' rims included, factory calculated all well....if u wan good FC for Forte, get EX...
Yes, i do agree 17'' tyres are expensive, pick-up slow, FC slightly higher.....but with it, it enhance ur safety(which something u really need and can't buy from any other shops)...

test drive n find out.

When u all get ur car in 2012, but manufacturing date is 2011, then it makes ur car 2011/12....in 2nd car shop, ur price will b going for 2011...
and of coz, price drop(resale value)....even ur car is registered 2012, but manufacturing shows 2011, means all parts and installation is ready on 2011, juz carried forward to 2012.....if u wan resale value better, plz wait till at least april or may to get manufactured year 2012 edition....
i knw this coz i work in 2nd/recond car dealer company....is best to get ur car by mid of the year...not beginning or end of the year....coz finance will determine the value of ur car through manufacturing date, not registered date....that's y u can see so many cheap recond cars around, coz of the manufacturing date...i saw a nissan skyline manufacturing 2004, but registered 2008, that makes the car only sold for RM20x,xxx in recond unit....while a R35 manufacturing 2008, register 2010.....not sure about the price, but sure will be low, coz consider it 3 years...going 4 years R35...

Depends on how fast 2011 stock clear 1st....they have to clear 2011 stocks b4 proceed to manufacturing 2012 stocks....
and not depends on 1 dealer/branch, have to depend on whole malaysia 2011 stocks....

[quote=-DarKz-,Dec 20 2011, 11:08 PM]
why don't ur SA just give away the similar freebie and why only PJ/KL have it all?? can just tell your SA wat freebie offered by PJ/KL..

[/quote]

I told him why i saw some people could get bodykit as freebies and why u dont provide it and he told me no such thing as freebies. I bought from bukit mertajam branch there.

[/quote]
no, i said....most 2012 manufactured cars will come around febuary onwards....unless very fast selling model.....
anyway, wanna let go my beloved car...any1 interested plz let me knw....RM65, no more no less, requires major paint job(outside only)

Watonk, base on ur opinion, which car's quality better?? not technology, but quality, like dashboard quality especially...

is true for city with LOTS of traffic lights....for example : Alor Setar....

yes....for 6 speed, sure came with it in SX varient...unless u get 2010/2009 batch of 4 speed...

rear mirror no reverse cam la....rear mirror is juz a monitor showing what ur reverse camera showing....btw, ur reverse camera is at rear number plate there...