lucky you said that because i just get my ASX!!!! YIPEE!!! Dealer told me not to modify anything during the warranty period, which is 3 years. My ASX is pear white.


But through out the purchase process I am very not satisfy with it I'm not sure is this how Mitsubishi dealer treat their customer:

1) I go to showroom book the car by giving RM500 of deposit (not down payment). That time i was deposit for a gray color ASX. I've confirm with SA that they have a stock for this gray color.

2) Then my full down payment get dragged a week due to I'm outstation on next day of the deposit.

3) Before I can made my full down payment, SA called up and said no more gray units. Immediately I fak him how come the color can be taken by others, suppose that deposit should had lock it. Find sales manager and get the answer was first come first serve base on full downpayment! WTF then what is that deposit for! I believe this never happen for other brand's car!

4) No choice but to take white color. Gray color need to wait until august. So my full down payment made, all the documents sign, JPJ get car plate number and waiting for the SA to call up.

5) Finally SA called up to collect the car 2 days after (car already tinted. The process took kinda fast really). But when I went for the car, the first look of the car is: A DEMO UNIT!!!!

I finally realise that the dealer dis honer to me! That car doesn't look brand new at all. Although there is no scratches, tyres still look new but the car mileage already hit more than 140km! And the car seat doesn't have any stickers, plastic cover, all had been rip off and i can see a lot of footstep stain appear on the internal car mat!!

Still with all these conditions, dealer told me is a brand new car.

So again I fak them (SA + manager) for getting me a demo unit. At the end, they admit the car is a display unit, but there is a different between their terms "Display" and "Demo". Display only park in showroom while demo on the road test drive. But what is the different for me? Still that car might had been touched / sit by thousands of ppl!
Also, i notice not all branch having demo unit. If that time no demo unit, they will use the display unit for customer to test drive!
WTF so means the car i get is a half display half demo!!! With that fact, I argue with my dealer until finally they admit that they are not sure is the car had been test drive before because it is taken from another branch. And that car appear as a display unit on that branch..

I'm so sure with this fact because I also been test drive the display unit ASX before i purchase it.

But when everything comes to the end, the car cannot exchange, no more discount... but dealer offered me additional 3 times free service... still i am not satisfy with the way they handler my purchase! Now i start thinking is it because they wanna hit their quarter sales so they lie to me about the no more gray color but to push out any left over display / demo unit.

So sorry for this long story of mine. I just wanna confirm with you guys is this the way mit dealer do. Also i found that the driver seat leather cover is not fully inserted into the seat (left and right side), is this same with u guy's asx ?

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Added on July 1, 2012, 9:42 amBtw, the car front part where you stick number plate, did you guys blacken it? I see that blacken it will look more garang and more sporty... if you do, how you blacken it? change that part or use black stickers or spray it to black?

This post has been edited by MitBom: Jul 1 2012, 09:42 AM

Hi MitBom,

Which dealer?????

Sorry to hear about your bad experience. Unless your car has an "older" registration alphabetic sequence, it is unlikely to be a demo car since most Mitsu showrooms' demo cars are almost always registered (they don't use the "blue" plate to demo cars for customers).

My first choice for color was actually the white but after some thought, decided to go with the gray since I don't diligently wash my car regularly

I have thought about blackening that area too but have thus far put it off. Instead of having it sprayed (permanent effect!), you could consider having a "matt" black sticker cover the area first (reversible)

I also plan to book asx, and which dealer so fxxk up, so I will skip the branch?

I brought from JM Auto Gallery, Penang...perhaps their managing style is so "outstanding" that I definitely can't accept. Until now still haven't find any abnormal on the car (2 days drive).


Your gray unit should be look just fine even without blackening it. For my white unit I think need some chemical coating to make it easier during car wash... I will go for PPS coat.

Oh ya their demo units that I saw are registered and with demo sticker on each side of the car. Only the 'display' unit in showroom using blue plates when a test drive carry out. But still the display unit shouldn't sell away just like that to end user, or at least should get approval / notice.
As far as I know, they will use 'display' unit to demo when ever there is no demo unit at that time.

So my peace of advice now is: If demo / display unit is white in colour, don't choose that colour for your new Mit. LOL

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Added on July 1, 2012, 9:53 pmOh ya I forgot to mention another thing about my SA. Early on I had a deal with my SA for a free alloy gear knob, and few accessories. But at the end non of them is given... so fak up... I will call him up to before my 1000km service!

Kinda regret to buy asx from JM Auto.. that cheebyeee sdn bhd. what a shame for MMM.

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Added on July 2, 2012, 9:22 amAnyhow talk about new car like asx, do we need to some sort like floor it on highway to burn the engine for the first 1k milleage?

I've heard a lot of these action for new cars. But how effective it is unknown to me.

My car now get about 10-13L/100km for city drive. Normal for that? Haven't try highway. My SA told me this car will get less than 20cent per km.

This post has been edited by MitBom: Jul 2 2012, 09:22 AM

scary story mitbom..lucky im in KL....

hope can land my red ASX soon..what a nice car!!

hi anyhone can teach me how to directly paste photos here? i don know how to do it so i put them in Words and attached the file here.

Question: for the front light, i saw some has got "black color" but ours is white color. wonder if how we can have this or do this.


Attached File(s)
 Doc2.doc ( 442k ) Number of downloads: 37

use a photo hosting site, like photobucket, for instance

then use the [IMG] tag


and as for the headlamp, never realized it too until today. looks more garang with black lining at the bottom

It could simply be "shadow" cast from different angle of lighting when the photo was taken.

FYI, I have toyed with the idea of having some mods done on the headlamp before ie adding LED lights or angel eye type CCFL effect but the thought of "breaking" the factory seal and not being able to get it properly resealed thereafter put that idea off.

Guys when you get your asx, did the dealer told you how fast can you drive during the first 1000km?? I'm going outstation tmr so suddenly this pops up in my mind: can i drive my new asx on highway constantly with 110km/h during the first 1000km?

drove my car to seremban during the first 1000km, push up crazily up to 160km/h to test it. i dont know whether it is appropriate or not for a new car, but hey, when i need to go, i need to go. lol.

There are actually 2 school of thoughts on pushing a brand new car from the onset:

1. Push hard! and
2. Don't push until after xxxx km/first service

I subscribe to the first school The logic being, the piston rings being new, needs to be "worn in" so as to allow them to be more efficient. Otherwise, too tight = lower engine efficiency. Of course, don't la push til red line

Hm... I just confirmed with mitsubishi mechanics about it. They prefer the second method, drive not higher than 130kmph. Drive through highway or consistence in one speed is ok. But my own method will be drive like how I drive a car

richard912,

i will choose method 1 but i want to change the engine oil after that hard rev..maybe after 200km or maybe less lol...question is..if so early go change engine oil..scared the mech will ask alot why..

reason is to remove any manufacturing debris frm the piston ring,piston bearing,etc worn in process..

so how u do it?

Maybe need to talk to mmm, via Facebook, I read and found out the are response to owner inquiry

There is the first service scheduled when you clock 1000km for this purpose. Read somewhere before that pushing hard is best done during the first 500km of getting your new car

here is some info regards to it..

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

i have done it to my motor+ car..and i do race in track before...when younger than now lol.....

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Added on July 4, 2012, 12:20 pmhere is the method for TRD engine..

How too properly break in a newly rebuilt motor!

Now remember this is not 100% correct ! and this is just a basic how to that someone has posted on line, credits are at the end!

The following is part of the Formula Atlantic Motor kit instructions, from TRD:

To ensure long life and reliability you must properly break in your freshly assembled engine.

For a high performance street motor fill the engine with a good grade 20W-50 Mineral based oil. Fill the oil filter with oil before installing it. Remove the spark plugs and crank the engine until the oil pressure comes up on the gauge.

Re-install the spark plugs. Now you are ready to start her up. Start the engine and bring it immediately to 2,000 rpm. Vary the engine speed between 2,000 – 3,000 rpm for about 30 minutes. After 30 minutes stop the engine, check the valve lash and re-torque the head bolts. Drain the oil and change the filter. Re-fill the engine with 20W-50 Mineral based oil.

Drive the car slowly for about 500 miles keeping the rpm under 4,000. Don’t lug the engine either because that’s worse for the motor than over revving it. After 500 miles change the oil and filter again. You can now use a synthetic oil if you want to. Use a 20W-50 oil and change it every 3,000 miles. Your engine is now broken in.

For a race engine broken in on the dyno the procedure is a little different. Note that this procedure is for a race clearanced engine.

For the initial run use a Mineral based 20W-50 oil. Run a hotter spark plug than you normally would run. Prime the oil system and the fuel system. Start t6he engine and bring it up to 2,000 – 3,000 rpm with no load. Watch the oil pressure and check for leaks. After 30 minutes stop the motor, check the timing, re-torque the head and check valve lash. Then, run the engine with a light load between 2,000 – 3,000 rpm for another 30 minutes. After 30 minutes change the spark plugs to the normal heat range you are going to run. Do a full throttle full load pull up to the bottom of the power band. Quickly chop the motor.

Check the spark plugs and the BSFC numbers if your dyno is equipped to do so to confirm the jetting. If everything looks good do a full throttle full load pull.

The engine is now ready to race.

from here.. http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthrea...y-rebuilt-motor!

This post has been edited by CV6149: Jul 4 2012, 12:20 PM

don't be surprised to see how clean the oil is when you change it at 200km

heck, i did my change 1.5 months after i bought thr car, at 1,000km - the oil is still sooo clean

and it's premium grade, japanese made engine oil. the mitsu mechanics even collect the used oil for them to use it later, claiming that that engine oil is still superior to most new lubricants in the market. then they fill up with syntium 3000. (not 1000).

yeah of coz it is clean bro...

my worries is the debris form the machining tolerence of engine internal...with nowdays manufacturer tend to built engine with a tight tolerence..this is the reason why some engine can take in 20weight engine oil...damn nice!

emm how la to do the hard break in engine like this....

eh..change airfilter will void warranty ka?

Btw, after my 100kmph drive on highway for 2hrs, now I heard that my car engine very loud everytime start engine during early morning...not sure what happen bcos this didn't happen before...