Nice or maintenance free, your choice......
Want look nice, prepare to change the flex. Hose in few month time.
I change them few time only found this DOE bidet.

But my own house still use chrome one, nice mar...... but i limit my pump pressure at 30psiﹰ

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Added on April 6, 2012, 10:01 pm

Since your main pressure not high, your solar heater/ water heater must connect to pump lar, else mana ada shok when taking shower..

seeing that a pump cost abt RM1.5k above, i'm thinking abt getting water heater c/w pump, saves the money and all the hassle of burst piping joints....

Do you know why instant water heater shower head has very tiny holes? 15A is the max to heat the water for a few degree upward instantly in the small tank and you cannot have high volume of water flow. To make you feel there is a lot of water the shower heads come with small holes spreading over. The pump of the intant water heater is not meant to have you have large volume of water. It is for houses/areas that do not have high water pressure. Instant water heater need pressure to work properly.

The tok tok sound could be due to too high pressure or faulty valve seal of the faucet/valve/taps. The banging will eventually burst your pipe and joints, not the banging but the shockwave sent by the banging.

This usually happen when you on or off the taps. What you can do is to allow air into the pipe to absorb the shock wave. One way is to have a air tank. If no air tank open the lowest tap usually the downstair toilet till it empty the whole piping water and air enter the pipe then shut it. When you turn on the pump and tap begining there will be air rushing out and later it will be ok.

If it is only one tap or two that causes the banging, replacec the rubber inside or replacce the tap.

Another method is install a pressure reducing valve some distance after the pump to reduce the water pressure rushing down the taps.

One other way is to use bigger pipe size like 3/4 than to use 1/2 inch pipe. When you turn on the tap with 1/2 inch pipe the speed of the water flow speeding like bullet and when you shut it it bang on the tap. The banging gives a shock wave throughout the piping system and can damage the joint or burst the pipe eventually. Better get it solve. With bigger pipe size it reduces the speed of the flow.

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Added on April 23, 2012, 12:10 pmWhat cause the banging is when the water flow with high speed it carries the entire volume of water in the pipe moving forward and suddently you shut the tap, the rushing of the water some 2 to 5 or 10 kg of water in the entire pipe lenght stops and bangs on the tap end.

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Added on April 23, 2012, 12:12 pmAir tank will help. Air can be compressed so it absorbs the bang. Water cannot be compressed, it hits and bangs as it collides.

Pipes are loose? This is scary... I need to check it out then. If no further hammering sound happen then should be ok, right?

About the "ladder" method. Any picture or diagram to show? I'm kind of noobs. 

, i've no idea what that bolded statement is trying to say

other than stagnant water = shit

water needs to move in the tank/cycled out.. best is as much as possible and if not 2 flushes a day.. so new water with chlorine can come in and kill what ever germs that is in there

just curious how long can the chlorine last ? 2 days ?

zheilwane, well technically QC for Italy should be better than TW right? At least that is my normal perception.

Anyhow, just check with my friend who had purchased this Gemini. He told me that Gemini material are majority plastic (good quality one), whereby Grundfos material is from steel (not stainless) and metal. So that sales people convince him that if get Grundfos, the steel will sooner or later become rusty since it's not stainless steel.

any comment?

I was wondering if the grundfos use 13A or 21A wiring?
I need to install one at top of the roof with a switch at my master bed room.

Common area now i got no place to put, hard to explain this but the switch will always ON unless i go out for vacation.
so u know the answer? 13A or 21A?
I just wonder my pipe need to change or not if i change to use the water pump.

Some submersible pumps can be installed at dry pit without any problem.

Hi all, my plumber just fix a pump for me and somehow it's not working. The pump also ON and OFF rapidly (short cycling). Water flow doesn't increase in all bathroom and worst thing is my master bedroom got stuck (worse than before, literally no water). Please take a look of the fixture and see any solution we can solve the problem. Your help and advise is very much appreciated. The diagram i drawn it based on the pipe that fixed and the picture is the real fixture. Please......hellllllllllp![attachmentid=3654173]

question: i am comparing costs at them moment. if i buy a s/s tank + pump i will have to fork out min. 3.5 to 4k incl. installation. has anyone considered (or installed) a pressurised (membrane-type) tank instead (i.e. no need for pump). price for 300 l tank (volume 150l) is around 3k from grundfos and this would allow you (or me) to store the water sealed totally hygenic and with the incoming pressure from syabas (when go better pressure it will also be "stored"). so if low pressure tank will kick in with the better pressure, if no power also no problem and if no water i have the reserve water.

anyone ever thought about it? it seems actually almost cheaper and you only have to check pressure once every two years or so and increase (just like the small tank on the pump). then can last 25+ yrs.

basically a pressured tank works with the same principle as the small pressure tank on top of the water tank. there is a membrane inside that seperates air and water and incoming water compresses the air. the tank's pressure can be preset to say 1.5 bar min. as long as syabas provides more than 1.5 bar incoming pressure, the tank will fill up and store the incoming pressure. you dont need a pump in that scenario if you're OK with incoming syabas pressure. for my place, we normally have around 2.4 bar so i could fill the tank with that pressure and enjoy the water.

my problem with the standard solution is that the storage tank is open (air vent) allowing for water contamination in the tank and as a result in the piping system. i dont want that.

so a pressure tank seems like a good idea in that sense. i was just wondering if anyone has used such a setup to hear experience. no i am direct pipe only so if got water-cut i have no water. 150l would be enough to get us through a day hence the thought.

thanks for the feedback. i also think it might be a tight squeeze if water cut. but for increasing flow etc. should be fine because you still have incoming water to support or will the tank cut me off from syabas while the tanks pressure is above syabas pressure? then you have a very valid point and the setup is not practical.

havent thought much about the slow fill. i agree - might be an issue.