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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V8, D5100 announced !

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Andy214
post Apr 6 2011, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(ifer @ Apr 6 2011, 10:18 AM)
one question though. why would anyone want to shoot at 3200 or 12800?
well, for those who shoot at those iso (at least oftenly or constantly)

me unless emergency i will go to 3200 (since it's emergency so noise level is not something that i care)
if not, maximum is 400 only.
heck, the hasselblad H4D that i am trying now can go up to 200 max. lol
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Why not? If not then why improve the iso capability or buy camera with better iso capability?

If one is in a situation where he/she is not allowed to use flash (or some reasons), in lowlight, need to freeze motion with X shutter speed and already on wide aperture. Should he or she under-expose by using lower iso? This will just introduce more noise/grain when under-expose.

In latest Nikon provided beginner guide, it shows and explains very well on the usage of the ISO, why this shot uses ISO6400, etc. I used to limit myself at ISO, learned the hard way finding out how bad the noise/grain due to under-expose shot, affected all my shots.

Justg sharing, nothing wrong with using higher iso if you need it (e.g. when you need the fast shutter speed and certain aperture OR you need to expose the background in night shots and at same time need fast shutter speed, etc)

Andy214
post Apr 6 2011, 12:54 PM

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QUOTE(Kent3888 @ Apr 6 2011, 12:28 PM)
EH pls la.... ppl 1 70-200 VRII cover all these cheap gears ok
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17-55 not cheap (especially NEW) tongue.gif

Andy214
post Apr 6 2011, 02:33 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Apr 6 2011, 02:27 PM)
Let's see if Nikon issues an update for the D7000 to handle 30fps or not.
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And also the in-camera HDR feature tongue.gif
Still no in-camera panorama feature yet.

Btw, anybody care to share what's the rough price range for 105mm AF-S Micro Nikkor?
Andy214
post Apr 6 2011, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(s6xs9x @ Apr 6 2011, 02:34 PM)
Mocking us D90 users eh!
Can you please link me to this beginner guide please. I always have the tendency to set auto ISO but never got the nerves to really shoot with the setting on (M). Perhaps reading up the guide might enlighten me or some of us. I totally agree, underexposed shots in limiting the ISO will introduce even much higher noise than Higher ISO perfectly exposed.
Matrix metering for this case?
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This was recently posted in Nikon Malaysia FB page, and also by Agito in previous post:
http://dslr.nikon-asia.com/amateur1/

Metering is just for reference, just like the histogram... depend on situation, it may not be always correct. However the metering you can change to spot or center-weighted to accomodate different situation.

Andy214
post Apr 6 2011, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(Everdying @ Apr 6 2011, 02:41 PM)
like the fro says, its going to produce more bad HDR shots everywhere tongue.gif

105mm micro around rm2.5k used.


Added on April 6, 2011, 2:42 pm

60fps is necessary if u want to do slow motion stuff.
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Haha, the fro anti HDR because he want the camera technology to acheiebe HDR (High Dynamic Range) without using multiple image technique. Our eyes have high dynamic range, but the camera is still far away, but he did mentioned the D3X have higher/better dynamic range already.

I think its a nice feature to have. I don't like to follow Steve Jobs way, its better to have than don have, not like Mr. Jobs, giving excuses when its not provided, or like Nokia giving excuses for not giving auto-focus feature on the latest smartphone, giving reasons like its faster.All crap,... provide the feature and let the user to choose whether to use it or turn off the feature, not removing or not proividing the feature then giving lame excuses =P

Anyway, HDR is really a nice feature if they provide in camera as users don't have to wait until they go back and process it. I'm not a fan of those painting like HDR, I'm more into those proper HDR, where you properly expose both the foreground and background or similar to what human eyes see, or slightly better (e.g. wearing sunglass). I've used smartphones HDR feature few times, and the result is great, becuase its able to reproduce what I see, or more clear version. The result, not necessary people may know its HDR, it may look like a normal photo or with taken with filters.

Thanks for the price, actually I'm looking for NEW unit price. seems its around RM3.1K in many places?

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 6 2011, 03:00 PM
Andy214
post Apr 6 2011, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(Tony Stark @ Apr 6 2011, 03:02 PM)
may i ask how much cheaper will it be compared to D7000? thinking of getting one D7000 for a DX nikon camera..still under consideration hmm.gif
like that like sony aledi sweat.gif good for lazy people tongue.gif

btw bought mine for £559 here..so its equivalent to RM2750.. i think msia is around that price oso right?
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Well its a feature that is Nice to have, not a necessity. It bring convenience if you need to see the result immediately or give to people without the need to processed it first.
Anyway, eventually these feature will eventually made available, its just a matter of time. We should look forward and positively, its a nice feature to have. Just like buying car, got automatic wiper or automatic lightings, its nice to have, but not necessity, some might dont even like it and prefer less electronics. You can always choose not to use it or turn it off.

MY I think the price around RM3.1K new. Not sure if can get cheaper...

Thanks


Added on April 6, 2011, 3:15 pm
QUOTE(Everdying @ Apr 6 2011, 03:03 PM)
use this site to see updates from buyers on how much new lenses selling in malaysia...of cos if no one buying or posting on there the lens price wont be there tongue.gif

http://www.mylensdb.com/
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Thanks. Yea, I've check there, its around RM3.1K range.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 6 2011, 03:15 PM
Andy214
post Apr 7 2011, 10:14 AM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Apr 7 2011, 01:16 AM)
oh so if wan all things sharp sharp minimum aperture must be F8 or higher? hmm.gif
ohhhh ... okay... last time use my friend 50mm f1.8 i just open wide..duno lower down the aperture till whan value to make whole things sharp...

if photo like this la.... how low i need to adjust to make the 3 people only sharp sharp? (the 3 people are not same distance...)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


thanks  notworthy.gif


Added on April 7, 2011, 1:17 am

to make the colour richer?  drool.gif
cannot set to Vivid mode?  laugh.gif
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Bro, I thought you already go through the beginner guide provided by Nikon? It's very well done, they give very good example with pictures showing how the image look when you change the aperture; There's also manual mode, which you can play with the shutter speed slider and aperture slider to experiment yourself how the image will turn out. Such great effort done by Nikon leh.

Anyway, for the picture you mentioned, it depends on several conditions, e.g. focal length, subject distance, etc. You will also notice at different focal length, the distance between the 2 subject will appear differently (at 18mm you can see the distance is further away, when you zoom to 50mm, the distance between the 2 subject becomes closer).

To get the 3 person in focus, you can try with smaller aperture maybe like example: 5.6? Then you should FOCUS on the center between both the subject and play around with the aperture; you can also experiment with the FOCUS, and see how the depth of field changes if you FOCUS in the front subject and also the rear subject.
If you focus wrongly (e.g. the front subject), then if you want to get the rear subject in focus, you will need very small aperture...
You can do testing yourself, put 3 rows of books (example; OR your beloved Dam DAM = Gundam), and play with the focus point and the aperture to experiment yourself.
Also try with the shooting distance, try shooting close-up and slowly move further back, and see the difference... When you shoot closer, the depth of field is more narrow... also try different focal length...

Experience is the best teacher.

Andy214
post Apr 7 2011, 10:27 AM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Apr 7 2011, 10:22 AM)
go thought all but no experiment  sweat.gif  whistling.gif
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Go experiment with your Gundam loh, very fun one tongue.gif
When get more experience then can experiment with your T8T8 club tongue.gif brows.gif
Andy214
post Apr 7 2011, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(lpyycy @ Apr 7 2011, 03:09 PM)
hi all, may i know what tripod that u all using? can intro me? i got RM300 budget....thanks for any suggestion or comment in advance...
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Try to get those which can go low angle, so you can shoot low angle.

Got many brand available, shashinki got sell one brand from China 'Justino' which is cheaper. According to the owner, KKK, he mention the quality is as good as Benro. You can browse there and see.

You can also try look for Vanguard brand, it's not bad and looks nice. Yoo can get Espod plus model for around rm300++, the retail price is around RM600 if not mistaken.
Andy214
post Apr 7 2011, 04:34 PM

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QUOTE(opfish @ Apr 7 2011, 04:03 PM)
It's 'Jusino' bro  smile.gif

Anyway, I'm a proud owner of a Jusino. Got it from shashinki. This one:
Jusino AX-254

lpyycy, just squeeze another RM75 and I'm sure you'll get be totally satisfied with its build quality, sturdiness etc. Superb deal for a convertible tri/monopod!
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Pardon me tongue.gif
Thanks for correcting thumbup.gif
Andy214
post Apr 7 2011, 11:18 PM

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QUOTE(SSY22 @ Apr 7 2011, 08:58 PM)
Consider cheap. But the cheapest is 750
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US naik harga dah:
http://www.adorama.com/NK3518U.html?utm_te...ce=rflAID021866
Andy214
post Apr 8 2011, 10:48 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Apr 8 2011, 10:44 AM)
Want lightweight then don't complain about it being plasticky etc.  laugh.gif
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Get a compact or go mirrorless tongue.gif

Andy214
post Apr 8 2011, 11:55 AM

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QUOTE(aldosoesilo @ Apr 8 2011, 11:44 AM)
UV gives no difference in term of outcome.
cheapo filter with you worse IQ, increase the amount of flare etc etc..
expensive UV filter just nice give you no reduction of IQ.

since I am poor kid  unsure.gif I can't afford paying for rm 200++ for no IQ reduction.

it's gonna be difference case if compared to CPL, ND and the other type of filters which will give different outcome.
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no reduction or not is unknown, but you can google and read more about it, it may not be noticeable or the difference is too small and also it depends on situation. When we test, we only test in controlled situation.

In the end, its up to individual preference; are you willing to go naked? tongue.gif
Andy214
post Apr 8 2011, 10:09 PM

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QUOTE(C_Sagi @ Apr 8 2011, 09:11 PM)
Most ppl in here with eyesight 10/10 eh ? tongue.gif
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Not sure eyesight; But it's like this, usually normal person who shoot pictures, may not notice so much details; But when the person goes detail/serious into photography, he/she starts to see more details, notice more things, pixel peeps, etc. For example, before I venture into DSLR, I'm satisfied with PnS/Compact quality and didn't look into the details, sharpness, etc. and those wedding photos looks superb already; Once moved into DSLR, starts to notice this and that, the details, review back my old PnS/Compact camera photos and notice more things. It changes what and how one person see things, last time, those wedding photos I see nice, now I see, I have different opinion already. I notice the blur part, handshake, etc.
When you shoot more and have more experience, you might also notice you can roughly tell the image is a bit blur without the need to zoom in from the camera (of course, depends how serious it is); Like viewing the picture for my PC, I can tell there is some slight blur without need to view at 1:1 size, which last time I wouldn't be see it, or someone who is not into photography might not see it until I zoom in 1:1 and show them.

This don't just apply for photography, it applies for many things; As this is eyesight, now take music for example, ears; when you starts to appreciate music, you tend to notice more details on the music and so on, which previously you might not notice. And if you take up music classes, you might learn and notice much more things.

Lastly, if you're shooting for yourself, it's up to personal preference, what you can accept; For me, if possible I try to get sharp image with no blur, but sometimes, depend on situation (e.g. shooting moving subject, capturing the moment), you have to give and take; capturing the moment is more important.
If you're shooting for someone else, then you have to be more careful and try to meet your client's requirement.

QUOTE(razuryza @ Apr 8 2011, 09:11 PM)
whoever said cannot see the handshake blur...

.. shoot more than u'll know

(and not always thinking bout gear LOL)
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thumbup.gif


Andy214
post Apr 8 2011, 10:14 PM

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QUOTE(Bliz @ Apr 8 2011, 09:25 PM)
Haha that pic a bit lah, but not very terrible shake, definitely a usable shot to me  icon_idea.gif
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Yup, usable; Not big issue, I think razurya just want to inform?

Besides, the picture is for his own collection, most important is up to him; for feedback, can be taken positively.

Andy214
post Apr 11 2011, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(KTCY @ Apr 11 2011, 11:37 AM)
all nikon malaysia set is from HK smile.gif
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What about Thailand?


Added on April 11, 2011, 12:13 pm
QUOTE(junior5417 @ Apr 11 2011, 11:59 AM)
ok  thumbup.gif

But d7000's menu too many function ed  rclxub.gif
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More is good, if want less, its easy, just buy lower end.


This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 11 2011, 12:13 PM
Andy214
post Apr 11 2011, 03:39 PM

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QUOTE(junior5417 @ Apr 11 2011, 02:42 PM)
last time i use sony a230 one.. sony a230 so ez to use. but d7000 need to put in some effort  brows.gif
do i have to install the cd they gave to update the firmware?
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When you go higher end, or professional range, most of the common settings is done from the buttons instead of in the menu. It's not put in some effort, it's actually more easy and fast, it's important.
Doing in menu waste time and need you take off your eye from the viewfinder and look at the menu everytime, this also consume battery power, etc.

Those serious about DSLR, usually look for more convenient controls rather than set everything from menu. If want simple, better get compact digi cam, which now have very powerful and smaller size like those EVIL cameras. Those that "want" a DSLR because it looks cools, yet they want the ease of use, so there is this low end entry level targeted for consumers.


QUOTE(celciuz @ Apr 11 2011, 03:23 PM)
I find the entry bodies very hard to use :S. Everything need to use menu is omg -.-
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Shame on me... I don't know how to use when someone pass it to me ask me to help them shoot. Since I need to shoot immediately, no time to experiment how to set this and that...

Andy214
post Apr 11 2011, 03:51 PM

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QUOTE(junior5417 @ Apr 11 2011, 03:42 PM)
itz eazier to control but have to memorize which button do what function and main/sub dial to adjust what setting  shakehead.gif
btw, i am enjoying while discovering those function  icon_rolleyes.gif
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Don't worry, it's very easy and very fast once; same like menu, first time you also need to explore and find out. Actually, using the buttons is faster and more easy to remember because you will be using it a lot (especially if you shoot in Manual mode). First time, you just need to find out which is which, besides, the button there got 'label' already so you can know what it do; The main key is the dials on camera which does not have label.

Once you familiarize it, you move on high end Nikon cameras, it's mostly the same and you can easily, quickly familiarize and shoot in no time.
Andy214
post Apr 11 2011, 05:11 PM

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QUOTE(aspire2oo6 @ Apr 11 2011, 04:57 PM)
Girls are famous for taking self portrait.
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wahhhhh, shifu is here!!!
Andy214
post Apr 11 2011, 05:26 PM

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QUOTE(aspire2oo6 @ Apr 11 2011, 05:15 PM)
No la I no L lens so cannot be sifu.
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I'm not referring to "GEAR" type Shifu, I'm referring to "SKILL" Shifu~ thumbup.gif


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