Haha, Epic, wanna beat Kai? Canon lens with Nikon lens cap!
Notti Notti

Notti! Blur off Canon word =p

Sorry, but that one is for people who don't understand or don't know how to use their camera and shoot.

It's a technique, and as with technique, it depends how you use it. If there is problem, blame the user, not the technique.

Hehe, actually I'm referring to the article writer when I see the title. The focus re-compose technique is not something new, plus it's widely use, especially when there is only 1 focus point, or for point and shoot, or handphone camera. For DSLR, it more towards how the user use the camera; ESPECIALLY, when they start to explore big aperture lens, go nuts with wide open, and not understanding DOF, focus plane, etc. ended up blaming everything else but themselves.

Buy Agito's D70, so he can fund for his next body.

I guess you're shooting close-up with 35mm f/1.8 @ f/1.8?
If yes, the DOF is shallow, and if you move even a little the focus plane will change; To test this, you can try use AF-C, then focus on one area and hold it. If the lens re-focus, it means you moved a little and the focus plane changed. In this situation, using AF-C you might get less chance of OOF; BUt with AF-C, you can't focus and re-compose.

IF you're using AF-S and shooting up-close @ f/1.8, and you're using focus and re-compose, then your problem is obvious.

Another good reason is for the controls and information screen. Low End bodies which need to set many things in many are like High end compact in DSLR body, missing the feature of a complete DSLR? Not sure how to put in words... but for me, if I'm looking for a DSLR, I want the features and controls of a DLSR... but that's me, everyone has their own opinion. I believe the entry level is target for people who wanted a DSLR, but might not want to go in detail on it, they might want the easy-to-use like a compact digital camera but performance of a DSLR, hence the entry level comes with many simple interactive menu, guides, help, etc. But nowadays, compacts have started to improved, especially with mirrorless technology, and there's Sony NEX, using sensor size similar to a DSLR.

This post has been edited by Andy214: Apr 12 2011, 04:00 PM

Can... but... high chances of OOF if the focus plane changes; Also depends on the distance, when you're shooting close-up, the DOF is very shallow, slight movement at wide aperture, the focus plane will shift...

You want to experience the thrill and excitement, try shooting MACRO handheld at widest aperture....


When your DOF is shallow, you need to becareful with camera movement, even pressing the shutter button...

If you want to focus and re-compose and you're shooting close up, then try using smaller aperture, you can stop down the aperture and try. Also make sure you hold the camera steady because close up shot, your slight movement (body/hand/camera) will affect the focus plane; You might not even know you did move, because when shooting close up, usually we take our time to compose the picture and shoot.
If you use Tripod, then the movement problem is very much reduced.

For your case, if you stop down too much, then it will affect the EFFECT you want to achieve, like you want to blur out certain parts; So you need to play around with the aperture to get the EFFECT you want, and still capable of letting you focus and re-compose. When you focus and recompose, try to maintain "within" the focus plane.

When you stop down, you need to compensate with slower shutter speed or increase ISO (if it's lowlight); In this case, shooting handheld, you have limited shutter speed, you have to revert to ISO; unless you're using tripod.
WHen you increase ISO, it will affect your overall image quality and sharpness; If you really want to maximize the performance, get good lighting or use flash. If you friend have flash gun, try borrow and bounce the flash off the wall, and experience the improvement on the overall image result you will be getting.

Or more simple way, decrease clarity, make her look like an Angel

Then you can create your own lighting for your dam dam model when you shoot, so you can still use lower iso while increase the aperture.You can iPad, table lamps, etc to help you provide some lights

Try it, you might change your mind and can't wait to buy one

Er... I'm not sure Fill Flash can be categorized as a function?
Basically Fill Flash is like forcing flash to fire, even handphone can do it.
The difference is probably for Nikon DSLR, you have iTTL Balane Fill Flash which will adjust the flash power for the fill-in.

Please correct me if I mentioned anything wrong.

Agito like this type, who can spank him
Notti Notti

dun be 'kiam siap', please share

I thought you mention he share his opinion/suggestion through PM?
just kiddin, but at same time, curious what he says

Thanks! Its nice to read different opinion. It all depends on individual. It the end, it's how one utilize it and the result that matter (whether it can satisfiy the person).

Anyway, best part is, if there is a picture taken at same settings with different lens of samee focal range, how many people can actually differentiate it by looking at picture alone? More: if the picture has been PPed...

Oh, food~ Just nice, got one with me; share my noob shot:

That's the intention

Thanks~ Well, I guess, everyone has their opinion, but it's nice to read different views from people actually.

Changing System? To which System?
Care to share why change?

BKT has limitation actually, you can only take still objects and all your shots need to be the same, so you most probably need a tripid and remote trigger or use timer.

Actually, I found another feature in D7000, its in the menu called multiple exposure or something, its like HDR function BUT not complete? Basically its like BKT, BUT you set the number of exposure, then take the shot, after the X number of exposure, the camera will combine all the X different exposure for you. The different with HDR function is, HDR function you only need to take 1 shot or 1 shutter click, you get HDR result. For this, its like BKT, if you set 3 different exposure, you need to take 3 shot first, after the 3rd shot, the pictures will be combine automatically. If after 30 seconds, no action taken (no shots taken), the feature will auto turn off.

depending on situation or what kind of shot/effect you want take, histogram and metering may not be always correct, its meant to be used as a referenced.
Example: If the background is very bright, you subject/object is in front of the bright background: in this case, you have to adjust your EV for your 'preferred' metering to achive the result you want, either you want to expose the subjec/tobject properly or darken your object/subject or whatever effect you're looking for.

If you're on manual, you don't need to dial in EV as you're in manual mode, but dialing in EV can help your metering, but then you need to remember to reset back the metering else the next shot your metering will be not accurate.