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 Discussion about watercooling and the results, Version 2

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speedrider
post Jan 3 2006, 01:16 AM

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moderno... have an advice ka?


Problem 1
Tight space when converted to SLi mode. Any ideas to improve? Thinking to upgraded the GPU heatsink... idea lost........ oops.gif

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Problem 2
I'm using TT BW SE.. Planning to upgraded to Volcano SE.. I dunno whether the casing will fit or not... It will be like Mitsubishi EVO 9 front bonnet i guest... Compact!!!!!!

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Problem 3
SATA management looks ridiculous right? I have 'sorok' all the wires as I could... But the result? Most of the power cables stucked at the front 120mm airflow [in] route... Haiya... pening lor... cry.gif

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Problem 4
Wire management. Rasa macam nak menangis dude.. Dont know what else the way to hide all the excess wires. Already 'selit' some wire under MOBO althought it so tight and sempit..

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its make me pening doh.gif
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but sometime it feels good to release my tension when looking it..... not the messy wires! grumble.gif cry.gif brows.gif laugh.gif

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speedrider
post Apr 24 2006, 01:00 AM

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pls check the iConnect kit from thermaltake. Whether 1/4 to 1/2" and so on...
speedrider
post Apr 24 2006, 01:24 AM

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Shah, the bypass switch work when we switch off the PC and turn it on without turning on the PC right?

How about the relay, 5 pins or 8 pins? The Normally Open (NO) connected to the diode, soldered to the other NO pin? Is that right....? Do you have the more specific schematic sheet for the relay box circuit?
speedrider
post Apr 24 2006, 09:12 PM

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QUOTE(Shah81 @ Apr 24 2006, 05:09 PM)
yes
i think the schematic is specific enough. you can clearly see its a 5-pin relay. incase you cannot read schematics i have draw one with photoshop smile.gif  this is how the relay looks like when you flip it up-side down to view its pins. for the value of the components, refer to my previous post.

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Thank you shah, this; I understand clearly. Thanks.
speedrider
post Apr 25 2006, 08:33 PM

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DaBaD, give us the result with the T-Line setup and with DIY reservoir...
Theoritically, the use of reservoir will help to cool up slightly a little bit the waterflow. (this based on theories of water 'spin' in the reservoir) while the T-Line will make the waterflow constantly run without 'resting'...... THEORITICALLY....

cheers.gif fpr WC users...
speedrider
post Apr 25 2006, 11:19 PM

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can We know your setup please?

1. pump-->rad--->waterblock-->pump
or
2. pump-->waterblock-->rad--->pump?

(XP90C result is similar like TT BigWater lah... the diff I used Winnie 3200+ that use higher Vcore.)
speedrider
post May 12 2006, 12:28 PM

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Hi all,

My Nirox also have leakage, But not at the trip to put the barb in. If it is there, there will be no trouble to seal it.

The leak is at the round parts ( sweat.gif alamak macam mana nak describe neh...)

menatang tu bocor dekat area keliling intake barb tu, tp bukan batang barb tu yang leak.
Yang leak, dekat tempat kita letak casing biru tu hah... kalau yang salnya untuk control berapa banyak kuantiti air yang akan diserap masuk....

(pls translate it urself.. hahahhahaa sweat.gif)


2nd question about epoxy.

I found that many hardware shops sell too many type of epoxy. Usually it must be mix 1st to use it

1. Epoxy
2. Epoxy harderner

Many types of epoxy including araldite, 2 tonne gum etc. Could anybody tell me, WHAT EXACTLY epoxy that r u using to seal the pump?
speedrider
post May 12 2006, 01:02 PM

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TQ abang zahri....


seperti yang dijangka... btol la kalau macam tu.. berlambak2 ada kat rumah.. memang kena campur rupanya... smile.gif

Thinking to put silicone at the 1st place, but silicone will tear around 2-3 month after use it.

Thanks again zahri.

 

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