Consist of DIY waterblock and some cheap stuff.
diy wb done already...
1800l/h hmax=2.2m not nirox..
diy waterblock..hehehehe
now leak testing for 2days liao...scared the hell of me...
This post has been edited by CV6149: Dec 6 2007, 07:53 AM
Discussion about watercooling and the results, Version 2
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Dec 6 2007, 07:52 AM
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#1
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Im currently in the process of setting up my own wc kit..
Consist of DIY waterblock and some cheap stuff. diy wb done already... 1800l/h hmax=2.2m not nirox.. diy waterblock..hehehehe now leak testing for 2days liao...scared the hell of me... This post has been edited by CV6149: Dec 6 2007, 07:53 AM |
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Dec 6 2007, 10:20 AM
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QUOTE(IcEMoCHa @ Dec 6 2007, 09:32 AM) leak testing... have to run at least 7 days to be sure.... but keep ur system off... run the wc pump enuff... yeah...but for 2days non stop without a single leak and somemore the wb is sealed with silicone and same with the pump also..now i have to fabricate a bracket for my am2... |
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Dec 6 2007, 05:51 PM
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dude..i dunno about that...
but i read some info from overclockers.com http://www.overclockers.com/articles1088/ cnp here.. Myths about Water and Flow Myth: Water must slow down to fully absorb heat. Reality: In a closed loop, a given water molecule actually spends the same amount of time in the radiator, no matter how fast it is moving, as long as the water is indeed moving. If this is a difficult concept to understand, think about a race car on a track. If the track is one mile (5280 ft) long and the car is driving at 60 mph, the car will spend about one second in a 100 ft stretch. Think of the 100 ft stretch as the radiator. If the speed is doubled, the car only spends ½ a second in the 100 ft section, but it passes through that same section twice a minute, so it spends a total of one second in the 100 ft section per minute. errr i dun really understand this also..but triple read it..seems logically enough |
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Dec 8 2007, 03:50 AM
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what do the oldtimer here think about my setup below?
1st time ever got heart to try watercooling even though heard about it for the last 10years(yes im old) maybe scared also..Im abit clumsy.. Got a old oil cooler from BMW with a good design.Quite big..clean the old oil thru.. the pump aqua zonic 1800l/h waterblock design got from various site in the net with some mod done to it.2 layer with copper block and nylon bar as top layer not arcylic would be using T-Joint for the moment b4 made a reservoir or buy. Ill upload a picture if anyone request it.. and do correct me hard ..as im newbie in wc stuff. |
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Dec 8 2007, 05:09 AM
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hehhe yeah........bought it to use in my car last time..
but retired play car liao.....the thing nvr use for 2years liao... but will change to heatercore soon also.. |
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Dec 8 2007, 08:49 PM
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QUOTE(AoiNatsume @ Dec 8 2007, 10:03 AM) from my readings, oil cooler could work pretty well too Sure..I will post it up some picture of the cooler and whole setup.im really curious of your setup, mind to post a pic and some performance screenshots? For performance wise...still waiting for time to make the bracket to fit my am2 mobo... once everything ready I will post up the temp screenie. the oil cooler is a diff kind of design.Its not the same design as those u saw before.. Ill post up the picture soon.. |
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Dec 8 2007, 09:15 PM
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#7
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Here is the diy wb that i did..
hehehhee not soo impressive though sory about the pic quality. There would be some revision of it soon. Would make some more hole on the mid section part. Any advice? Here is cooler picture... No good camera phone... This post has been edited by CV6149: Dec 8 2007, 09:25 PM |
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Dec 11 2007, 01:00 PM
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here some result for my rojak system heheh..
Idle. Load temp is around 50C.Duh! Better about 10c than my old hsf same spec and vcore..BUT Im quite satisfied for the cost n setup option.Upgrade option is very wide. I believe a good result can be a achieve from better aftermarket wb or better design diy block and also radiator. Soon will try heatercore from car. not to shabby..I guess This post has been edited by CV6149: Dec 11 2007, 01:47 PM |
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Dec 11 2007, 11:41 PM
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#9
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after relocate the radiator position.manage to shave another 7c from load....
heheh now that is better hehehe |
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Dec 13 2007, 04:09 PM
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Change the radiator to triple core car heatercore.
I think the waterblock design is not too good.Just minus 4c only. ![]() |
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Dec 15 2007, 09:23 AM
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Aiih..Im not soo sure.......Suspect the waterblock design not very good.
Will attempt a 2nd design soon. |
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Dec 15 2007, 10:28 AM
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Dec 15 2007, 12:47 PM
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Emmm.........I have check..that can feel a diff btw old and warm with outlet and inlet.......Dun really understand..what is wrong with the rad..since the flow is good.couple with 12" fan too...
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Dec 19 2007, 11:52 PM
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#14
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really great result bro....looking forward for good result from ur x apogee hehehhehe
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Dec 26 2007, 01:25 AM
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Sad to hear what happen to fellow friend
Just some update from my wc journey. Bought Apgee GT from Aoinatsume(thanx bro)..I have high hope for it since its surely better than my homemade block. So install it carefully.Guess what!! Temp just low about 1-2c only...Im really sad at 1st..Nearly fedup..bu i keep my cool.I do suspect the radiator as the culprit but I wont really convince enuff about it. So today in desperate attempt to get more from my Apogee and to prove that its not radiator issue. I embarked to lap my Apogee and my beloved F3!!.Well the reason I wanted to do this is because,earlier when installing the AG(Apogee GT) I realise that the contact btw AG and my proc is rather less...Im not sure why but seems like somethingis not really flat.Im not sure if its the AG or the proc. So I did it! the wb and the proc is in a very flat and smooth.Then i realised the result we gonna get from bowed AG. So since the AG is already out.I just change the o-ring to thicker one to make it bowed. Results is very good! considering the before and after result. Before: Idle=38c Load=50-52 After: Idle 34c Load=42c I am very2 satisfied with the result |
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Dec 26 2007, 01:55 AM
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QUOTE(MetalZone @ Dec 26 2007, 01:39 AM) Hi CV6149, I'd say the reason for your temperature drop is because you lapped ur CPU IHS. I never advice lapping all recent Swiftech waterblocks as they are already precision-lapped to 0.0003" flatness by machine; better than hand/manual lapping can ever achieve. So lapping manually may probably worsen it instead of improving it. Noted it in future purchase EDIT: oh and also to add, don't lap the FuZion either. As it's designed to have a slight convex shape to the baseplate to improve contact on IHS CPU's. So if you lap it, you no longer have the convex shape for optimal IHS contact. Unless, you decide to mill a stepped area smaller than the IHS size to collaborate with the die size, don't lap it. aiih nvrmind laa already did it......make me feel bad about lapping it heheh but nvrmind Just following the step from extreme forum where they test AG and Fuzion... |
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Dec 26 2007, 02:38 AM
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QUOTE(AoiNatsume @ Dec 26 2007, 02:31 AM) good to hear your good result bro heheh no prob bro...the bowed trick is listed in swiftech site also..fyi..certainly an improvement there, i didnt notice the fuzion/d-tek shootout at the xsforum so ididnt tested out the thicker gasket oh well.. im happy with my current fuzion though |
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Dec 27 2007, 06:06 PM
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#18
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agreed..apogee is a good block....
cant understand how your apogee can leak? just put some grease on the o-ring... |
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Dec 28 2007, 03:52 AM
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Apogee GT doesnt have nozzle?
Cant we diy 1 for it??heheheh actually why nozzle?to give a jet impingement style or? |
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