Anyway..I'm referring to this and cathar's race track analogy

http://www.overclockers.com/articles1088/

Since the temps depend on water temp and that's cooled by the rad everytime it passes through, shouldn't have temp increase no matter cpu or gpu come first right?

Unless the rad being between cpu and gpu.

The only concern is the pressure drop (slowing the flow) actually because in this case, the pressure from the beginning of the loop (from pump) and the end of the loop is not the same. This wouldn't be much be much of a concern if it's an inverted BTX style case.

In my scenario, that means the pump will have to push water upwards into the GPU block (lose pressure)...then up again into the cpu block (storm= impingement= restrictive).

And in your case, although ur cpu block is quite unrestrive, ya pump still gotta go through the your restrictive maze patterned TT gpu block first then againts gravity again upwards.

Anyway, still deciding the pro's and cons of this. Anyone want to share some thoughts in this?


The amount of water and size of the reservoir doesn't do anything towards performance. It makes the temp go up slower since theres more water to heat up but after a certain period, the water temp reach an equilibrium and this equilibrium temp should be the same as having a tiny res.

Unless you're using a big a$$ copper (or other conductive metal) rad which may help remove some of the heat, otherwise its pointless.

Then ianho's gonna come in and promote his newly acquired TT alu res and how it's ok to mix alu and copper together in the loop because he's using special coolant that's advertised to prevent galvanisation

I'm just curious here...anything wrong with NOT placing the pump on the lowest part of the loop?

H20 on hold for quite a while...having a hardware disaster here.

Came back home on friday...comp off...

Reboot...doesn't detect both the pata disk and the burner

After a few mucking around...sata disk also gone

This morning...VGA pun tarak..

Brought mobo to shop.... tested ok....
Brought VGA to shop...tested tarak ok.. but they only have 300W psu.

Now plugged in an old TNT2.. no luck with any of the pata HDD.

Disaster aye..

This post has been edited by sniper on the roof: Dec 17 2005, 09:22 PM

Hahaha...after all these months (literally...almostthere can attest to it ), finally pasang my stuff.

Tunjuk ajar are most welcomed for this noobie.

How's your setup? Got a pic?

My pwm's going up the roof after moving from air.

Was just discussing with the sarjan just now...mounting problem I guess...sucky temps now.... VGA 48C load, CPU 42C load...

Winchester @ 2.4Ghz... 1.5vcore
7800GT @475/1200

Reason I said it's high is cos it's just a tiny difference from the previous Freezer64.
Those damn pwm and vga mems are burning too now with no air.

Tygons R-3603... 1/2" ID 3/4"OD 1/8" wall.
Tried thinner walled ones but kinck like mad.

Finally

Gosh...I've just ghetto-fied my rig even more!!!

At least the PWM is at a sub 40C idle and 46C load now... without the extra air, it went all the way up to 61C during gaming *sigh*

Blardy hell.... my Storm cracked..yup...the acetal cracked!!!

VGA died...burned kau kau.

Pics to follow later.

Anyway...the story is.... I just came back about an hour ago and the monitor show no VGA signal.

First thought that came to mind was....leakage.

Then I found some wetness on the VGA..... after taking out everything. Tubings were perfectly clamped...pumps working.... taking apart the Storm, there's nothing groovy inside.

It just cracked. Heck, I didn't even over tighten the darn barbs. Next time I'll invest in some of those shorter stainless steel barbs instead.

Edit: Now tengah Operation Remove Burnmark from VGA.... nicely goreng'ed sial.

Here we are:



This post has been edited by sniper on the roof: Jun 20 2006, 09:45 PM

Ain't the block that I'm worried about...can easily get a replacement. Yeah it's still expensive but wtf... Geezzz...this "could" be the 2nd vga card I killed in a row

Ain't the pump dood.... the whole system still perfectly functional. Everything ok....I was curious where the leak came from actually and only saw the crack when I took out everything.
And nope....didn't overtighten and nope...it was perfectly crack-less when I installed it.
Such is the mystery of computing.

True also.... acrylic cracks...acetal pun crack ...I need a titanium top di.

No idea man...I don't think anybody makes aftermarket tops for storms yet.

Moral of the story lagi... boss... everything is by the book lar. Leak tested and triple checked everything.

It just freakin cracked by itself.. so the moral of the story: Storm users... periodically check your block.


Pretty damn bad ler....the flipside of the gpu hangus sial. Didn't take pictures lar.. spent like 2 hours rubbing to clean it.

Waddaya think of this block? Same price as the storm...hate the 3 barb though.





This post has been edited by sniper on the roof: Jun 21 2006, 09:48 AM

Actually most of the stuffs are bought online.. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
They ship worldwide and service's pretty good too..

Metalzone... ur clamps have to delay a bit lagi..gotta go try rma my VGA first. *sigh*

Running out of choices of waterblocks di... I don't want the 6002.. the Apogee pulak scary...Storm pulak you know lar.... then there's the taiwanese blocks.

It's by KP Mod..Taiwanese thing..some doods that makes my pump top mod....also what the sarjan calls ghetto block .

It's freakin heavy and solid...molested one today while shopping for the new waterblock.

Didn't like the 3 barb design though.

This post has been edited by sniper on the roof: Jun 21 2006, 08:28 PM

Only the upper cracked....

Rest are all a-ok. PM me if you need it.. we can do contra with something later.

Guess what... went out last night to get ANOTHER Storm.

This time its a Rev2.

Mmm...interesting block.

Problem here is the lack of choice ler... only choice I have was

1) that KP5 posted above.
2) older KP3 model...not impingement
3) Apogee
4) Storm
5) the TT's and the CM's etc.