have fun newbieee!!

Good luck! Show pics

Hi guys, I'm thinking to get either A390, A33 and NEX-3. My main concern is taking daily photos including flower, people, scene shooting. Not really need too pro function and video recording. What is your recommendation.

guys... how do you make a 2MB JPEG file become 3mb, or more?

going to submit my photos to a magazine but just realised all my files are bordering 2mb. some of my good shots are less than 2mb!

oh man i wish i had more than 10 megapixels now D:

SP90 can be portrait and bokeh is perfect for me. I like to use my sp90 to shoot portrait.

question is, who is the seller to justify claiming that it is the so called Pro1D grade? 

If you have time to go do this kind of stuff, why don't you just pay more to get a CPL from a well known brand and it'll save you some trouble 

thickness is only part of the so called "quality" factor. what about the light transmissivity (ability of the glass to allow as much light to pass through as possible)? how about tint? does the glass have any undesirable tint? inferior glass is known to have bad tinting. another important factor is flare suppressing. good filters have good coating on top of the glass to minimize flaring which affects the image badly. another point to consider is the ease of cleaning. certain manufacturers includes a top coating layer to makes the filter easier to clean once it gets smudged with grease or oil (which it eventually will). you will be surprised to know that the original Hoya Pro1D (which this guy says has the same "quality") actually is one of the most difficult and annoying to wipe clean amongst all the top brands. I know because I had used it before.

nope, i didn't submit that
it was the orang utan shot

Erm no... If you put cpl with your UV on, light transmission will be lowered as light has to travel through your CPL as well as your UV, to achieve the best results, you'll need to swap your cpl with your UV when you want to use your CPL.

not really true here, UV has minimal light lost, but CPL, is 2 or 3 stop light lost..
people swap UV and CPL is to avoid the vignetting
@newbieeeee
and CPL is not always-on filter, use when it need only, so, for me i think i'm a GWC, i wouldn't invest into an expensive stuff i don't really use often.. ordinary rm40~50 CPL filter works for me already

register online and welcome to join orange legion

bounce the flash lo...

nvm.. can gain some experienced from it. try taking pics of prime minister then u know 

Btw, zaloon got open on sunday??..i wan to get my 30mm..lol

post pictures and then we comment lo... got little bit of shadows doesn't mean its a bad picture la.. 

New or used?? Currently searching 1...

i see underexposed pics u using manual power?

Below is my 2 cents. Just saying it like it is so dun angry wokeh? 

Are you using direct flash? Can see harsh shadows in most pics behind the subject. You should really be using bounce flash. This is where I found the need to get the F58AM.    Not having enough flash power resulting in a not so good shot is really frustrating.

I noticed that in some pics, the background is dark while the subject is lighted (by the flash, I presume). This makes for an uneven pic in terms of lighting. You should try to up the ISO setting to let your cam capture more ambient light to balance the lighting.

Watch how you crop your shots. In the first pic, you've cut off the end of the pillow (it is a pillow right?). Would be nice to show the whole pillow. In the second pic - it would be better if you have shot landscape orientation so that you won't have to crop the person fixing the bride's hair out in such an unflattering manner.

Pic #7 could use some space around the couple. As it is, it is too tight for my liking.

Having said that, shooting a wedding is really difficult. You have to be on your toes at all times. You have to know the whole event's flow and how it unfolds so that you can position yourself for the best shots.

You also have to be an organizer at times and order the couple or their helpers to round up their family members and/or friends for group shots. Yes, sometimes the couple DO FORGET to take a group shot with their OWN PARENTS after getting group shots of all their friends. If you do not keep track of this, it would be bad when you deliver your pics and there is NO shot of the happy couple with their parents! Or there are pics of the couple with either one parent but none where both parents are present in the shot!

Wedding photography is not just about clicking the shutter. It's much more than that and we will be taken to task when certain 'unmissable' shots are not there - like when the couple forgets to take pics with their parents! It's a learning experience each and every time.

on the issue regarding the cap on diffusers. i had used them before. they are not the best solution for softening out shadows but they do improve the shadows a bit. however, like shootkk & lwliam had mentioned, this thing do eat up a substantial amount of power. but i don't think the issue is 100% due to your F42 not having enough power. i believe it is also a matter of your camera's TTL system not knowing that the cap is there in the first place. what you need to do is:

1) shoot at a higher ISO. if you were shooting normally at ISO200, try ISO400 or ISO640 instead. This will compensate for the loss of power due to the cap. Also, it helps to lengthen the life of your flash's battery (higher ISO, lower flash output required, hence less battery power consumed per flash fired).

2) dial in a +ve flash compensation. this is a bit of a hit and miss, depending a lot on your cap, but try +1.0ev flash compensation to begin with and continue to adjust from there.

Hope this help you to take better photos with your existing gear, before you go out and search for a better bounce / diffusing accessory.

my opinion, demb diffuser, same like other stofen (cap) or garyfong toilet bowl, all is just marketing gimmick and waste of time(ur real flash learning become off track) and money. i only find them useful when i do not have a ceiling to bounce. F42 can bounce even a 3 story ceiling (grand church), and shoot as far as 10 meter away. but with all those ojibala modifier on ur flash, ur effective distance become less then 8 meter at fullpower. useless.

throw the diffuser away la..i find it so useless & inconvenient now...if it was useful it would come with the flash anyway.. my noob 2 cents... 
the two guys in the background is distracting 

Newbieeeee : What diffuser you using? The white ones that cap onto the flash head? Should really throw it away lar... It makes your shots look like direct flash shots!!

Better to leave the flash as it is and strap a small namecard sized white card to it to throw light in front. Stupid diffuser eats up your flash power and don't work correctly.

totally agree..
furthermore, when i was using my f42 last time, its more than enough power most of the time.. indoors have no issue..
only problem is when subject is far, ie. stage/catwalks (which rarely uses flash anyway) its a matter of where you direct the flash head and how u use a bounce card. those white plastic caps diffuser really eats up a LOT of power, i dont use it unless im in a tight room, where light from the 'back' side of the diffuser have place to bounce back to the front..

if cut the diffuser like that.. why need one..

My A33 is truly weather-proof. 

wanna ask about flash gel ya. tungsten we use orange, rite? fluorescent we use green rite? then when we use blue? n what other colour gel can be use?