ohhh, i wonder how my hair look like bah, coz i cant see from mirror

feel like selling off my tamron1750 for rm900, and my tamron200400 for 1k, then fund for 1635... mmm

i know what u thinking, hahaha. later will post in sale thread.

yea, i also wan to thanks boon3, else i wont own a boom today ohyea, i gonna name my boom as boom3 after boon3 for all he has done for me

pic spam. (those who are selling it, can use my pic ^^

rean wong.... shit, i've been mesmerized by her eye -_____-

rean wong, i wan her number.... who have?

actually, playing with WL has 2 approach, the firs question is, "does background matter?". after u got the first question answered, then next is "how many lights do i need?"

usually, 1 light is enough, but for the hall, 2 light can easily do a very good job, too many will be a hassle later (to many ppl has to hold the flash, and some might not get the chance to shoot) too bad i was running up and down, else i can start my own "mini flash workshop" those who has my FB will know how i shoot with just 1 flash.

ahpingko: what u did is actually already wayy over the limit. you have to know the limit before u start shooting.

busy lately, else my blog for learning photography would be at least 10% complete... now still 0.5% lol

Melv: DRO is subjective. you suka, ON only, u tak suka, OFF it. to me, i on for general shooting, but if i am in serious shoot, i do it in raw anyway, then check DRO level with sony raw editor. usually i will turn it off when i wanted strong contrast (shadow contrast) on my shoot. its really depending you like it or not. the DRO auto will not go pass level3, so u wont have to worry bout weird HDRish skintone.

ahpingko: well, HSS is one issue, Sun/Sky is another issue. its hard to explain, because i have to get u down to Flash basic first, then only can move to here. but i just temporary answer u in point form.

i) your flash ev must match the sun ev at sync speed (1/160, or 1/250 for high end model) if the sun is F22, your flash 1/1 needs to hit F22 (which is quite near to the subject) this one, will require 4 diagram and 5 pages of writing to explain all. for those who join gary workshop, u guys should remember he mention about "light fallout". even wesley workshop also got mention. the light nearest from the source has highest intensity, it could reach up to F45 at 1/1 power.

ii) HSS will drop your flash power, the higher the HSS, the most % it will lost.

why not try this, F22, 1/160, iso100. direct flash 1/1. see u get what u wan or not.

Codyx: i never read DPreview, they have more speculation then facts. and, SLT will have "shift focus" issue (means BF, FF, yawfocus etc) because it was design to be calibrated-able in the first place. u may question my statement, but until my first success SLT calibration, ppl will spread the words

---

Added on March 16, 2011, 5:57 pm
hahahah i was typing half way when u answered

help u add some word to prevent confusion later

This post has been edited by ieR: Mar 16 2011, 05:57 PM

on special case, the focus check LV, can set to use phase detect or contrast detect AF, contrast detect will use the capturing (main) sensor to focus. so yea, it has that feature to use the electronic measurement thingie u meant.

if really sync issue, then ur circuit board inside the flash has to change, it will take some time to ship a unit from sg/hk.

wait, even u blast at 1/1, if u shoot at shutter 1/2000, the flash has to blast around 8 times... so what happen is, 1/1 divide by 8, u get around 1/8 power fired at 1/2000 sync speed. so what u actually is getting is 1/8 at 8 burst at 1/2000 sec!

also, the distance of flash to subject affect the amount of light that reach your subject.... (flash fallout) so, further your flash, the weaker the light~ nearer your flash, more light u get.

albert tested it

Albert flash on ahpingko camera = fine
ahpingko flash on Albert camera = not fine.

wei, blast 8 times at 1/2000 speed... u know how fast is 1/2000???? lmao!

---

Added on March 16, 2011, 6:15 pm what i mean, in focus check LV, u can select in menu to use phase detect or contrast detect (check for me, i dont have A55, i might be wrong) so u have 2 option.

the sensor wont move la. when sensor in focus(lens focusing), u snap also in focus, because the image memang need to be sharp towards the main sensor~ rite?

the backfocus issue because, its sharp to the focus sensor module, but not aligned/sharp to the main sensor, hence u get soft picture.

This post has been edited by ieR: Mar 16 2011, 06:15 PM

actually, codyx, the first calibration is NOT wrong. its what they say 'best suited for all general photography uses' and, no, not all are wayy off calibration, during the convention, most A550/A700/A55/A580 were in very good calibration, it seem only the older A300 batch most unit has the calibration issue.

as for how long the calibration will last, need reservicing or not, i do not have long enough experience to give statement. so i do not know.

---

Added on March 16, 2011, 6:41 pmaisks, correction... A55 do not have focus check LV. paiseh, i was wrong, thanks to codyx correcting me

This post has been edited by ieR: Mar 16 2011, 06:41 PM

dont call me sufi lehhhhh >.< i just a guy who know how to calibrate only lehhh

should i fly over for pc fair?

william: sell the T99, got some cash left to fly gua, if only i got the nex, confirm fly already muahahaha~!

Strik3: hahaha, hey, go gather people to play with next level of WL flash, color wl flash u know mixing the color can create new color too? i love it when red meets blue

This post has been edited by ieR: Mar 17 2011, 12:33 AM

albert: the wideness makes a lot distortion on the street photo, makes shape not normal, mess up my head perspective. but, oh i love that first 2 photo of the hall, so straight the scaffolding (or what do u call it?)