Use filer.

How big or wide is your filer? lol

Get those lightweight thin thin stuff. Like those mini nail clipper type. Or you can get them from Denso, comes in a set of 3.

Filing the time slowly, no need to press hard hard, else lubang too deep, you have to putty back, or gone case, since it's RG. loll

But it works.

Then get some polishing compound to smooth back the surface to shine. *sounds like car detailing only*

Yup, Daiso.

Otak think Daiso, fingers typed Denso pulak.

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Added on April 7, 2011, 5:54 pmI used TurtleWax polishing compound. lol

Used it on my CrossBone as well. Sanded (filed, then sand) places became kilat again like new. lol

But a lot of work though, took me weeks to finish X-bone.

This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 7 2011, 05:54 PM

Yup, even nippers! lol

So cheap that you can use them as disposable thing and still won't cost as much as buying Tamiya's one.

I used it for quite some time already, they are small and comes in few shapes, quite suitable for gunpla.

For flash that difficult to shave away, use filer. Don't need to go too deep. Usually, the result is a very rough surface. Then use a low grit (around 400 - 600) sandpaper to sand that area. Then sand again with finer grit one. It's smooth now, but the surface is all scarred, calar, no more shine. Finish the area with polishing compound, and voila!

Depends on how much time you spend on the polishing compound, it might turns out more kilat than the original plastic itself. lol.

Mine looked like this.

I'm staying away from SD because it's difficult to remove the part from the sprue. A little twist, the part is out and most likely the hole is on the part, rather than on the gates.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Those filers not as thin as most nail filer on clippers, but definitely same thickness, if not thinner than ice cream sticks.

They are ok, slowly file away then follow with sand paper. If you start using sand paper to smooth the flash, might turns out not even due to softness of the sandpaper, which has no flat surface.

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Added on April 8, 2011, 3:28 pmSand until the next morning, the nub mark still there. lol

This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 8 2011, 03:28 PM

MG Strike got screws one?? Wow...

The use of screws made me feel that it's closer to PG (premium), hehe.

But even my older Wing ver Ka doesn't have any screw, which felt cheap.

That 2 screws seem to be holding the arms' shoulder swing joints? Hmmm

This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 8 2011, 07:49 PM

Come to think of it, it's fine for not having screw thread, cause they can't be made during injection. Usually screw thread is post production kinda thing. Imagine so many units of MG Strike to make threads of...

Anyway, some stuff to share for people that are expecting (not babies la...)

I wonder if use hair blower would help or not. Heat it up a little then press it with cotton bud?
Maybe after cooled down, the shape would stay? Haha

Just a guess. I painted my gold anyway, easier.

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Added on April 9, 2011, 12:28 amGunpla should be treated delicately. Don't yank it dude. Yank something else instead.

This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 9 2011, 12:28 AM

Try and see?

Try solder iron.

The survey brackets "Gundam", does that mean it doesn't include other plamo, such as cars, bikes, tanks, battleships and etc.?

This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 9 2011, 01:55 PM

Seems like the new Wing EW has a slight variation on the head. Anyone else noticed?




This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 9 2011, 11:24 PM

Yeah, it seems to be like a missing part. Aren't these sample units should be correctly assembled?

How about that piece of blue behind the white fin huh? Can the original blue piece be stuck behind there?

Actually, I have most Wing kits amongst my other kits. That's why I could notice the "difference" on the head. Just that it was too long ago to remember the assembly steps already.

Oh ya, on a sidenote, I gave up on MG Freedom and bought the MG WGZC instead last time.

And a bit disappointed to find that the inner frame was almost (exactly?) the same as Wing ver Ka.

This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 10 2011, 10:44 PM

I think the No.2 there means, it's "Specialty No 2" (and there's only 1 unit). What was the first one? LED lighting?

http://prntscr.com/1q6al

This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 10 2011, 11:32 PM

3 words, patience, patience and more patience.

But for sturdiness, I think better go for any MG grade RX-78 better. The ver 2.0 is very pose-able, right? Unless you like the colour scheme on the Real Grade, which I did and why this was my first RX-78, cause I don't like the grand daddy's existing look and feel except for the RG. (1/48 is HG, I don't want to buy HG anymore )

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Added on April 11, 2011, 1:45 amLet's see how many runners there are if it doesn't justify for that price tag.

This post has been edited by Harddisk: Apr 11 2011, 01:45 AM

Every modeller should at least experience 1 unit of RG.