16-80 is good, but the 16-35 has constant aperture and is BETTER... whichever way you see it..

im selling off my Sigma 24-70 f/2.8 DG though if anyone's interested

kopitiam, UGPM

its a very capable camera.. awesome video, not even found in any other brands of camera out there

looks nostalgic, would be better if added a blending layer of film dust and a slight noise

+1111111

horror movie anyone?

i for one, hates putting filters on my lenses... you pay big money on good quality glass, and then u put a cheap piece of 'plastic' in front of it. whats the point?

and expensive filters doesnt IMPROVE your pic quality is exactly the whole point of getting an expensive filter. it protects and at the same time act as though nothing is in front of the lens.

the main protection for my lenses are the lens hood. if all else fails, its up to how good/careful are you with your gears. for my CZ currently have no choice but to put a Hoya HMC on it while i can get my hands on a 77mm CZ filter, they dont come cheap, but worth its price in everyway.

errrr, cheap filters dont interfere with WB...

white balance is what you set in your camera, if there's a yellow cast, then the its the user that will need to adjust it.. custom WB anyone?

ieR, i'm looking forward for your article as well.. Go go go!!!

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Added on February 15, 2011, 7:17 pmahpingko, try this, use shutter priority at 1/30s and others (incl. flash) at auto.. See what do you get. Then, add or minus from there (u will get an approx. of aperture value)

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Added on February 15, 2011, 7:21 pmthen try shutter priority with 1/60s and 1/160s.. See the difference in the output.. Then u will learn from there, by keeping other variables constant, and only changing one part of the equation.

This post has been edited by lwliam: Feb 15 2011, 07:21 PM

800 is a good start

why are u changing multiple settings at any time?

do this, make sure your subject and background has sufficient distance to see a clearer effect.:

28mm, 1/25s, f4.5, ISO 800
28mm, 1/80s, f4.5, ISO 800
28mm, 1/125s, f4.5, ISO 800
28mm, 1/160s, f4.5, ISO 800
all these with flash set to AUTO and bounced straight up

then try this
28mm, 1/60s, f4.5, ISO 800
28mm, 1/60s, f7.1, ISO 800
28mm, 1/60s, f11, ISO 800
28mm, 1/60s, f16, ISO 800
also with same flash orientation

in that case, can replicate the same settings, but use ISO400 instead

the effect's subtle... but i think it should be visible. and i have no idea how in the world u get pitch dark..

if u see the settings used, it doesnt really matter which lens is used one ma..

bounce card's main purpose is to introduce catchlight to subject's eyes. it will make the subject's eyes look more 'alive'. and to throw in a bit of light to the subject as fill-in for the shadows beneath the eyes and nose (since the main source of light - the flash, is now directed elsewhere)

This post has been edited by lwliam: Feb 16 2011, 12:39 AM

bro, if u really interested with the sigma 2470, i can give better price geh and for the price, the sharpness is incredibly good.

This post has been edited by lwliam: Feb 16 2011, 01:34 PM

nahhh, dun regret oooo..

*catch 50mm and sells back to fishermen*

pingpong head fish...


who knows... maybe got some will catch one

going for workshop on Sunday only.. full day's course