Bro Poodle,

The rim too common on trucks laaa... Look for something more stylo... like truck version of TE37.. yummy Always love JDM rims.. hahaha

woot? i stand corrected, i didnt know much about diesel engines but i thought they basically work the same, thanks for the info!

Pros

Wider tyres = more surface area = more traction and grip
Larger rims = lower profile = sportier ride = better cornering response

Cons

Higher rolling resistance = higher fuel consumption
Bigger diameter = Higher moment of inertia = Higher torque needed achieve same acceleration as smaller rims

That's the reason diesel is lack of room to mod. Only can trick the ECU with those sensors...
No spark plug on diesel bro ! hehehe

+1

Bro victor, you are using 18 inch rim with 265/60/18 tyres? How do you feeel about the acceleration when you change from 16 to 18inch, did you felt a great reduce in the acceleration? I dont want to change to 18 and lose the pick up.. Then regret and change back to 16'...

This post has been edited by Poodlepaddly: Jan 26 2011, 04:07 AM

if no power, increase ur boost pressure and remap ur ecu can d laa...

dont feel like doing internal engine modding because: 1. Not much knowledge on car engines 2. Want stay stock for warranty 3. havent finish modding the exterior

This post has been edited by Poodlepaddly: Jan 26 2011, 06:41 AM

[quote=alpha0201,Jan 25 2011, 05:01 PM]
The car is still powerful. It's just that it needed to more power to roll that bigass wheels. Unless if you get those lightweight rims.

[/quote

Agree with our friend saying that using a light rims and quality rims but let me tell it will be not cheap !
Ask around the price before u consider

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Added on January 26, 2011, 10:09 am[quote=Poodlepaddly,Jan 26 2011, 04:06 AM]
+1
Bro victor, you are using 18 inch rim with 265/60/18 tyres? How do you feeel about the acceleration when you change from 16 to 18inch, did you felt a great reduce in the acceleration? I dont want to change to 18 and lose the pick up.. Then regret and change back to 16'...

[/quote]

I agree with u some more. The rims easy to get damaged too if we accidentally hit the hole of the rd tell u very sensitive the bigger rims that looks very nice n sexy, but when driving on the rd have to avoid those damm hole

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Added on January 26, 2011, 10:19 am[quote=kampoon,Jan 25 2011, 08:56 PM]
one more thing very important....18" tyre price is sky high

[/quote]

Yar lor big rims is always like that if Japanese or European rims lagi expensive


This post has been edited by sfotsy: Jan 26 2011, 10:19 AM

Power? abit la. not much different. My truck upgrade off set rim from ori to -20. Tyre from 245/70/16 to 275/70/16. Fc little bit more. But cornering more stable. Look fierce coz four tyre is half outside the body.

With bigger rims, u need extra power. Try adding Vector, a common rail interceptor. Will up power from 136hp to 160hp. I'm using it. 4x4 with large rims not worth it. U need to slow down for bad road.

No la bro.. Stock rim only.. Add Vector Tuning Kit la.. Lai pm me for best price wont void ur warranty at all !

Dear all, thank you so much for your informative replies. Many of you stated the pros and cons and also your experience with sport rims and it was helpful to help me make the decision.

Before





After


Summarized pros and cons, credit to all the forumers in this thread:

Pros
1. Ganas beautiful 18' rims
2. Better cornering with 265/60/18 low profile tyres - confirmed
3. Better stability (traction and grip) on the road.

Cons
1. While max power remains the same, the acceleration decreases (by 10~20%?) Bigger diameter = Higher moment of inertia = Higher torque needed achieve same acceleration as smaller rims << Really potong stim!
2. The steering feels heavy/more stiff to turn with 285/60/18 or 265/60/18 tyres because more tyre surface is gripping the road - confirmed during my test drive today
3. Accelerometer inaccurate by slightly but isnt obvious
4. 18 inch rims are 'slightly' more expensive
5. Brake efficiency will be affected slightly
6. Higher rolling resistance = higher fuel consumption

This post has been edited by Poodlepaddly: Feb 11 2011, 02:38 PM

Wish you have a happy brand new rims, and happy for you!!

nice ride bro.. thinking about it for my future wife car (she kinda like it).. but want to change smaller rims with large n bulky tyres..

you want make up your car of course need some sacrifice on your performance.

ie: custom bodykit is cun but heavy so (probably) underpower.

just trade in that roll bar for a canopy and it looks nice already for urban area.

+1

White Triton with cool canopy

Bro,Diesel does have Air Filter,and it will make a huge difference to replace it with a performance filter if compare to a Petrol engine~ because Diesel engine ignite the fuel by compressing the air til it's get real hot "800C and above" with a compression ratio of 21:1 or greater,do air is more important to diesel than a petrol engine,more air equal more hotter the air can be compressed to and more fuel can be burnt,more fuel can be burnt equals more power.....if a Diesel no extractor or manifold how does the engine route the exhaust gas to drive the turbine??? u must be joking.....the correct method is Extractor-Turbo-Wastegate ~

AND Diesel doesn't have to smoke alot after the ECU had been chipped unless the guy who responsible for the reflash doesn't have experience on Diesel,when a Diesel smoke it can be bad to the engine itself coz when it emit black smoke it indicate that the engine had a too rich mixture,it is completely different to the petrol engine,when petrol engine runs rich it cools it down,but when a diesel engine running rich it get heat up so it is dangerous to diesel.......and i repeat DIESEL SMOKE ALOT IS MEAN THE MIXTURE IS TOO RICH,NO SMOKE MEANS THE MIXTURE JUST RIGHT AND IF THE EXHAUST SOUND SPLASHY MEANS IT GOT LEAN MIXTURE ~

Btw do u drive a Diesel powered vehicle before?

All thing i said in here is not to offense anyone,just to share out the correct thing

And sorry if i does offence anyone ~

Nice ride. Mine is the bluish version with stock rims, front bug guard, aeroklas sportdeck, bodywraps, aeroklas mudguards and some thai-made stabilizer bar at the rear axle. Now, with Vector... truck will spin wheels on 1st gear and hit 180kph easily.

Still have a Taiwanese 16" rims in the office. Will spray matt black before installing it after CNY.

Bro, i am not joking. We all know diesel engine runs with Air Filter. Huge difference bro? Why not u get over my workshop and i show u the difference between K&N filter with my stock filter with my stock MAF sensor?

Huge difference? Like how? faster acceleration like 1-2 sec off the stock? For me, huge difference, NO. Better air flow = Yes, but useless if your MAF still allowing the same air flow setup to be flowed in.

Before fitting an K&N filter, power delivery was smooth and eagerly to rev until redline.

After fitting K&N, power delivery was so poor. 800rpm > 2k = no pull at all, and it consume more time to reach 2k rpm for my turbo to boost, once it reach 2k rpm, the boost came and it will hit the redline like normal did ! I was like you back then, refuse to believe. Tried resetting the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes (but i left it for a few hours). Clean the stock MAF sensor.. And all what i've did is futile, it's still the same until i remove the K&N and replace back with my stock filter.

Most of the diesel nowadays runs on strict MAF sensors from vary manufacturer like Bosch,Pierburgh,Hitachi and etc.. so putting a high flow or free flow won't work much because it's the MAF sensor controlling the air flow. It's all the same on all commonrail diesel that runs on MAF. But mine run like this, still don't believe? Get over here and test drive mine and i'll prove you so wrong ! I even sent an complain to K&N, guess what they don't even dare to reply my mail at all after a second reply from me !

Try taking off the MAF sensor from any commonrail diesel engine, and see if the engine will rev.

I, myself of course know that diesel engine run on high compression, that is why diesel tends to have better FC than petrol engines, and lower redline compare to petrol engines.

Yes, air is important in diesel engine, but fuel is important too ! But since commonrail engine has enough pressure in injecting fuel to the engine, what those tuner need is trick the commonrail sensor to inject more fuel.

Thus that's why tuning kit / tuning box is introduce to nowadays commonrail engine, what they did is override the ECU reading on the MAF sensors and Commonrail sensor. They trick on them to suck more air and inject more fuel, hence faster acceleration, more torque and more smoke.

Black smoke coming out from diesel = tuner problem? Depends actually, if tuning is done right and no damage on the injector, PCV valves and turbo, IT SHOULD SMOKE more than stock. That's indicating sufficient of air and fuel.

Black smoke on turbodiesel may be symptoms of having clogged PCV valve, faulty MAF sensor, faulty injector and faulty turbo actuator/wastegate. These are the major problem. Also, not replacing the diesel filter for long time will cause black smoke on your diesels too !

All of my tuned turbodiesel smoke and they smoke ALOT if you did an hard acceleration from standstill !

p/s: not everyone will go and tune their stock ecu to run rich / lean... There's no need to ! It's completely different with petrol engine, so stop comparing ! On diesel engine, it's all air and fuel matters !!

Commonrail diesel nowadays run on EGR. Exhaust gas > EGR > Turbo > Engine. (Not happening on your Pajero since you don't run on EGR)

I understand the working concept of wastegate / actuator, hence i don't need to waste my time explaining here.

Diesel cars with extractor? Bro, i'm not joking and i found non of them in my Rover 75 CDTi, ISUZU DMAX 3.0 Ddi ITEQ, Rexton RX290 and my previous Isuzu Rodeo.
It's call exhaust manifold if you're talking about diesel engines, not extractor which u find on petrol engines. Dieselhead mod their manifold probably due to upgrading their turbo !

In case you don't catch my words, here's the pic for your ref:


Extractor on petrol engine:


If i'm not a diesel-head, i wouldn't have 3 commonrail in my car pouch right now.

So far one of my commonrail is up to 75% mod. Air intake mod to allow more air to flow in easily, tuning kit, replace stock Bosch MAF with Pierburgh, replace uprated PCV valve, decatted exhaust, EGR removed and installed a Bypass, uprated o-rings for the intercooler, aftermarket Jetex high flow air filter (order along with new MAF sensor and tuning kit). I did it all myself. It's a commonrail anyway


I'm not proving i'm a pro or anything, as i'm still learning from all the sifus oversea. Talking about modern commonrail diesel?
I noticed u owned a old mechanical fuel pump Pajero, which is not commonrail. If that's the case, you might be right in certain point, because i'm speaking of commonrail engine here.. Commonrail vs not commonrail, now that's huge difference as they are completely different technology.. Like those diesel forklift we did, difference is they don't have turbo.

This post has been edited by victor87: Jan 28 2011, 02:08 AM