Probably someone can stickied similar things like this in front page so that many new comers can get some information on choosing a bike.

Here we go.

Question to ask yourself before plunging the sport of Mountain Biking

1. What kinda activity I want to join?
Choices
a) Ride around my taman
b) Ride to school and buy groceries
c) Join friends and go biking in some cross country tracks. e.g. offroad road for cars. e.g. Kelapa Sawit plantation area (where usually cars can come in but need to slow down)
d) Offroad with a bit of climbing, and downhill, narrow paths (cars can't come in), a bit of drop or uneven trail
e) Fast, furious downhill with jumps and extreme cornering

After choosing 1 from the above, then the next thing you need to consider...

a) Budget
b) Budget
c) Budget

Ha! Ha! Ha!

For Question 1)
If you choose a) b) or even c)
A bike ranging from RM1500 and below is acceptable. Even bike RM700 and below will still be acceptable.

For d)
Try to fork out at least RM2k and above. Preferably RM4k.
Anything less, you most probably will end up hating yourself for making harsh decision or you will change your bike/accessories the next round.

For e)
You need RM5k minimum or preferably RM20k to start. Ha! Ha!
And you need bigger balls.

Of all the above
You will still need around RM100 minimum to buy helmet, gloves, water battle or hydration bag.
Preferably spend RM300 minimum to get some quality goods.
For info, a branded helmet will cost RM200+, a branded gloves will cost RM70 and up, a branded hydration bag wll cost around RM150 and above... usually RM200 above.

If wanna join us for weekend rides or some night rides, just let us know. We will be more than glad to assist. After you get your bike and helmet that is!

If u have not been riding MTBs before this... you won't know what u will like. Seriously!
What you see and read in the internet are just professionals doing it. We might be frighten by AM/Freeride or DH videos in youtube but heck... you'd wish you can do that.

In Malaysia... this is the explanation of the term

XC - Cross Country
Recommended Location --> FRIM, around your house.
Type - Cycle up, cycle down, cycle up, cycle down. Trail condition - double track, smooth to small bumps dirt road, gravel or tarmac.
Obstacles - Human, small humps.

AM - All Mountain
Recomendation Location --> Kiara, PCP
Type - More technical Cycle up, cycle down, push up, push down. Turn here turn there, drop less than 1 foot hill. Trail condition - Single track, double track, muddy, switchbacks, rocky, slightly bigger bumps.
Obstacles - tree branches, roots, rocks, switchbacks.

FR - Freeride
No Malaysian doing this currently.

DH - DownHill
Recommendation Location --> Kiara, Bukit Cermin, PCP
Type - Push bike up. Come downhill as fast as your balls can take. Not for pussies. TRail condition - Rocky, bigger gap jumps, muddy.
Obstacles - Your balls

Adding on...

What bike to choose ...

XC Bikes - can climb better but due to headtub angle design, fork length, you will have less confidence in going downhill.
AM bikes - It is in between XC and DH. So, climbing not as good as XC but better downhill confidence. So, you are always not the best in any discipline but you will enjoy almost every trails you come across.
DH bikes - You usually push the bike uphill as it is very heavy and headtube angle very big. Although, some DHer can cycle up steep hills better than us. But when downhill, you are quite save and confident, so, in return, u can ride faster.

What's the diff in these bikes?
XC - Light. AM, Medium weight. DH - Heavy.
Durability - Usually XC and AM bike can take most of the abuse from normal bikers in Kiara or PCP or FRIM. Unless you are riding DHer style, then probably your bike's life span will reduce. Other than that, it should be ok. After all, most forumers here change their bike frame or components every few months. Ha! Ha! Ha! Only one exceptional case, every few weeks!
No chance to see the component or frame fail.

For new comers.

Question - I want to start mountain biking but I donno what bike to buy. Please advise.

Answer -

First to consider. Budget!

Budget below RM1000.00
Answer - No need ask. Just get one you think the color suits you. Heck. They are all the same.
Choose these: Nexus, Exitway, Rockbike, Lerun and even to the extend Polygon <-- these are not really mountain bikes. Ha! Ha! Ha! icon_rolleyes.gif
Budget below RM2000.00

At this price range, there are many "branded" bikes to choose from hence making us more confusing.
Common brands in Klang Valley. Merida, Fuji, Marin, Raleigh, Norco, BH, Polygon, Giant, Scott, and probably a few more.

What are the important things to look for?

1. Fork
2. rear cassette
3. breaks

1. Fork from lowest to better fork
- SR Suntour (SRS) XCT, SRS XCM, SRS XCR, Rockshox Tora, SRS Epicon.
2. Rear cassette
At this price range, it doesn't really matter but for mountain bike, ask how many "teeth" the biggest cassette has. Preferably 34T or 32T. This is very important especially for beginner.
Having 8 cassette, 7 or 9 cassette doesn't really matter as long as your biggest is biggest! He! He! He!
3. Breaks
Wihout doubt, hydraulic brakes will be better than mechanical disc breaks and better than V breaks. Just that at lower range product, they all perform almost the same.

What is not important?

1. Frame design - At this price, all frames probably made by 2 factories. Giant and Merida. Ha! Ha! And it doesn't matter.
2. Crank - Many shops will use this as a way of telling you their products better. But at this price range, it really doesn't matter
3. Handlebar - You look and you like... get it. Doesn't matter at all.
4. Seatpost - Same
5. wheelset - No difference one.
6. Tires - Preferably branded ones like Maxxis, Tioga, Nevegal, Schwabe, Panaracer. Any other brands - Same.
7. Rear Derailluer, Front Derailuer - Again, some use branded gimmick to lure u but it doesn't matter at all.

Most important is the front fork. This is the one that determine whether you ride happily or cursing home.
Invest in this.
If your budget more than 2k, use back the same as above... and look for what you want. If I were to choose, I'll make sure I get the bike with the best fork first before looking at others.

MONOLINK FRAME TECHNOLOGY
Sometimes the most complex things are the ones that appear to be the simplest. Over the years, that’s been our story–MonoLink is too simple looking to be one of the most advanced suspension systems out there. But it’s that simplicity that’s so innovative. MonoLink doesn’t rely on complicated shocks with fancy-pants valves and springs with logos on them, because the system itself, and the bike itself, is engineered to deliver a ride quality that can’t be touched by any other concept. We call it ingenious simplicity. MonoLink means that when you are out there enjoying a ride, less can go wrong and more can go right.
That’s the soul of every Maverick.

Wheel path
All that any suspension system does is dissipate the energy that is exerted on a bike and rider by bumps. As you hit bumps, big or small, the suspension’s job is to absorb the force that is transferred to the bike. A basic study of physics at your local pool hall will tell you that when one ball hits the other, they don’t move away from each other at a right angle. They move apart AND in the direction that the striking ball was moving.
Now, translate that to suspension. The bump is the striking ball. The second ball is the bike wheel. As the bump strikes the wheel, physics says that the wheel will move up and back (the direction the bump came from). Understand that, and you understand MonoLink! That’s what it’s all about: Creating a natural wheel path for the rear wheel to travel that naturally efficiently absorbs the forces exerted on the bike. When you achieve that, your bike rolls through bumps effortlessly, and you maintain all your forward momentum. Our wheel path is so special, it’s patented. You just can’t get this feature, or its benefits, with any other system.

Efficiency
Efficiency is one of the most over-used words in suspension. It seems like every company claims to have an efficient design these days. Efficiency is such a buzz word because nobody wants to waist waste any energy that they put into riding. The problem is (remember this from above), all suspension does is dissipate energy. If your suspension isn’t designed correctly, it will naturally absorb energy that you exert on put into it. That’s what pedal bob is all about. Some designs are definitely better than others, but MonoLink stands out. It truly transfers the most energy from the rider to the trail, without losing any into the suspension. Here’s a conclusive way to prove it for yourself:
• Take any Maverick bike and roll it up to a wall, so the front wheel is touch the wall.
• Now put one foot, or both feet, on the pedals and push down hard like you are pedaling.
The bike doesn’t squish, does it? In fact, your pressure doesn’t activate the suspension at all. That means that every gram of force you are exerting on the pedals is trying to turn that back wheel. Now THAT’S efficiency!

Minimal Chain Growth
Chain growth is a killer for a bike. As the rear wheel moves, it’s critical that the path it takes creates very little variation in the distance between the chainrings and the cassette. Botch the design and the suspension’s travel could result in a rapid shortening-then-lengthening of the chain—the rider feels a sudden gap in the pedal stroke and therefore less control. The unique design of MonoLink incorporates the position of the bottom bracket into the suspension, and therefore allows for the wheel to move all the way through its travel with negligible chain growth. It’s one of the most important features that helps any Maverick to “disappear” under you, as you ride.

Get out there!
We don’t want to take too much time trying to explain and diagram why MonoLink is a better design, because none of this explanation makes a bit of difference unless you love the way it rides. We heartily recommend that you replace the time you could spend in science and math class with some time in the saddle. That’s when all the technology will makes sense…the first time you roll straight through that section you’ve never cleared before, or when you have to wait 10 minutes for your buddies at the top. Then, when they ask how you did it, just tell them that its way too complicated to explain.