The vrz founder said still too earlier for april fools joke
i really hope its true since i just got my GTX560 not long ago, was planning to run SLI on the future.

Hi i am new comer, long time no post here...bad luck today...finally killed both of my luvly team sticks...now headache to rma liao...btw its ddr2...i am sad...

And gain something new...

mine only need <1.4v for 3.6Ghz stable

i suppose you need a better cooler

Shouldn't be the PSU. My father handpick this PSU himself. Back then I was under budget and my only option was wither Enlight 400w or Cooler Master Extreme 460w. We look at both and my father insist that I took the Enlight even though Cooler Master has more wattage. Reason is, Enlight is a lot heavier   

If you wondering why I listen to my father, its because he's an electrician / electronic engineer. Has been dealing with these electronic stuff for more than 20 years. Dealt with more PSU than you or I have ever touch in our lifetime

Either way, I believe the issue is not with the PSU. I don't have any other PSU to try anyway.

Well. I appreciate your kind intentions but if you did as much research as I did into PSU then you'll know that the ampere rating on those 12v rails could be best describe as the work of fiction.

There is 1 time I was obsessed by PSU and all these 12v rail rating. I'm gonna take my time to explain why 60amp on those PSU 12v rails are crazy.

Our PC runs on Direct Current. Which means that the positive and negative charge must go together in the same copper wire. This creates a more stable flow of electricity but generates a lot of resistant. Which means, in order to carry more current (known as ampere) it must have thicker copper wire.

Now if you need a copper wire to carry 60amps of 12v DC, you'll need at least 1" thick copper wire  

Have you ever see a 1 inch thick cable in any PC PSU? Neither did I. But I have seen a 12v DC 40amp PSU, but not for PC. Its for Car starter and you'll need a trolley just to move it  

Now, about wattage calculation. Watt is a very general term. It can be used to represent any form of power. Even the power required for a person to climb stairs can be measured in watt. Now for electricity, watt is easier to calculate. To get the wattage, you just multiply the volt and the ampere.

V * Amp = Watt, for example.

10v * 10amp = 100watt. Easy. But if you take the formula to calculate CPU then it all doesn't make sense. CPU is only 1.4v, so in order for it to consume 125watt it must take at least 89amps    

So for a tiny CPU to consume that much power is  

I still need some time to find the root cause for my OC setup. But I'm confident that the PSU is not the culprit.

Btw, I'm more interested in the settings. Like how will the NB frequency affect OC and other stuff like that..

I kinda agree with you on your first statement. That's why we dissect my PSU early this year to check for any fault. As I mentioned before, my father is an expert on PSU and he has handled more PSU we have ever touch in our life combined. In order to see whether aging has took place or the PSU has been stressed more than its capacity, we have to physically take a look at the components. I'll teach you how.

First of all, take a look at the capacitors. The moment you remove the cover to your PSU you'll notice 2 things, a very large capacitor and transformer. If the capacitor becomes "pregnant", or grows a bulge on top of it. Its a sign of capacitor overload. The capacitor will only become like that if its faulty or overload. If the capacitor doesn't look pregnant, it means that its still fine.

When we took out my PSU last time, my father was surprise at the capacity of the Enlight capacitor. He say it is very hard to find a capacitor with that high capacity.

Secondly, take a look at the bottom of the PCB, especially on the solder. If your solder appears blacken then it means the PSU has been overload. If tis clean and the solder haven't melted, then its all OK  

My PSU was in perfect condition when we take it out last time, even then I have been using it for more than a year. If my PSU is underpower then all the symptoms I mentioned about damaged PSU would have appear then

Yea..this is what I'm taking about. Alright, its a bit long, here goes;

FSB 200Mhz @ 18 Multiplier which gives 3600Mhz
HT is set at default at 2000Mhz
I haven't check the NB Multi, donno how, will see how..
Ram 1600Mhz @ 10-10-10-25, I think this not the most ideal timing
RAM divider at 1:4 I think

I wanna go explore these kind of setting but not sure how, Its the RAM timing that makes me go nuts  
Maybe I'll go revisit Phenom 2 overclocking thread.
Yea. Kinda agree with you. Btw, I know a lot, I mean a lot about PSU so you don't have to worry about my PSU consumption. I know what I'm doing
Btw, what do you mean when you say you won't go high vcore on that mobo? U mean my 770T mobo? Is it no good, I bought it 2nd hand from another forumer...

The thing is, electronic components don;t normally have wear and tear like mechanical components. But I suppose it has something similar though. Normally electronic components will fail completely if its time.

And you're lucky if your PC suddenly shutdown or unable to boot. It means that the PSU fail safe is working and it kept your other PC components from being damaged. Cheers to Enlight
Do you still have the old Enlight you mentioned, I'm sure it can be repaired.
Well, given their price I'm would be really really surprised if they give cheapo components lorr. They HAD to give extra large capacitors and extra powerful transformer and extra quality IC's if they want to supply more power to the PC.

What I mean when we're surprise when we saw the capacity of the capacitor is that, given its price of RM145 (if I recall correctly), the components given are quite good. I mean, you don't exactly hear praises when you mentioned Enlight. But then again, my 400W Enlight that everybody says is underpowered has served me for the past 2 years so I have no complaints.

Damn, really..Shit..But Gigabyte 4+1 phase won't be worse than my old Asus M2N68 Motherboard rite...
My RAM is at 1.66v. Stock should be 1.65 but the BIOS doesn't have 1.65v, it skips to 1.66 from 1.64   I've kept my NB and other components at stock voltage. And I've made a mistake just now, apparently I didn't over volt my CPU to 1.425v. It was running at stock 1.4v when I was testing the configuration just now. No wonder my CPU-Z shows 1.39v....

Its damn good news for me though...
Hmm..Linux also has the Memtest, maybe I should try that one later. Thanks for the info bro.
I see, well congrats on your new Deneb bro.
Btw, your RAM timing is very weird. Would it be more stable if you time your RAM like that?
And I didn't know you can OC the CPU-NB frequency to that high.

And my setting works. After 20 mins of Prime 95 and 2 hours of gaming my system is still stable. No sudden shut down or BSOD. Looks like there is more to OC than just increasing the voltage...

Time to experiment on other settings hehe.....

I see I see..thanks for the info bro. By tight timing you mean 7-7-7-10 or 10-10-10-20?

Oh yea. I didn't mention what RAM I'm using. I'm just using a low end Kingston HyperX ram. Its stated in the website that the original timing for my Kingston Ram is 1600Mhz at 9-9-9-24 at 1.65v

My current RAM setting is at 1410Mhz at 9-10-9-25 at 1.6v. Tested with Memtest and it pass 1 round. Should be OK I guess.

Any advice on my RAM timing? Can go lower? Cause I heard the lower the RAM timing the more unstable you system becomes when you OC. Especially if you're using cheapo RAM like my Kingston HyperX...

Thank you so much for the advice   Will try it out soon...

And compared to those high end Rams like Munchkin and Corsair, my Kingston HyperX is considered cheapo edi  
But will try to push it to the max  
I hope this HyperX will be friends with my chipset haha..
Hmm..I tested Prime yesterday with my side case open and the temperature max at 56c. When I closed it the temperature shoot up to 60c ++.
The ZALMAN 9500 is pretty good, it cost me RM245 back then   Its just that the air flow inside my casing sucks. But I already have plans for my casing, I will cut out 1 section of the side panel so that I can fit one 12" fan directly beside my CPU fan 

while u at it,cut a few holes for cable routing n lots of cable base tie...though tis should be going to cable management thread
y is it harder to oc with 8gb of ram compared to 4gb or fewer...???
lots of sig i read ere n overclock.net juz hv 4gb on amd platform...i hv 8gb coz system mechanic always give reminder tht my memory is low so i add another kit of 4gb...

tht...got 2 monitors...1 for watching muvee,other for firefox,ie,pdf,etc ...or gaming n muvee ...vengeance any good for amd imc?mushkin?u guys got good ripjaws,me very jelly    

Hehe..no need to go that far   As for cable routing, I'll just get me a new casing that has good cable routes and airflow. But I can't afford it yet..Haizzz...

And I've also heard about this rumours that over 4gb of Ram is a bit harder to OC. Guess it true then. My brother is planning to get 8gb as well for his next PC.
Woah...267 fsb....Fro some reason I'm quite reluctant to touch my FSB...

obviously is both...

superpi/hyperpi dont just depend on ram, still depend on other factors like cpu speed, nb speed

your rams may be overclocked, but may be bottlenecked by other factors above unless they are OC-ed as well

Or I could read the manual or refer to official AMD statement...

Well..fingers crossed

Oh yea, if given the choice of tight timing with lower frequency and loose timing with high frequency.
Which one would be a better choice?

how bout buying high freq n loose timing ram n tighten the timing?gskill sniperrrrrrrrr

u will end up disappointed. why u take high freq (i assume 2k and above) but most of rams rated on intel. and u cant get it run at 2k u will curse ur ram cuz cant even run at rated. dont even mention tightening the timings.
but if u buy a 1600mhz ram, and it runs at 1800mhz then u feel good already..cuz i will run more than rated..kekeke.thats why last time i like value rams.. 1333>1900mhz makes me feel good   

ini ape hand job...me under age lor,kenot brain this  

but wow,thts kinda toasty proc...

did memtest n pass 1 round till got this number...still khx,mind u

7-8-7-27-27-1t 1600mhz,1.65v

tht -27-27 nid to find sweet spot also ke?

IMO, prime95 is the best to test mem

memtest may pass, but can fail prime95

Hi Guys. My latest attempt at OC. This time I push it to 3.74Ghz @ 1.4v. HT Link at 2200Mhz. Increased the NB to 1.22v.
I've tighten my RAM Timing to 8-9-8-23-28 @ 1.6v. Just a tiny bit tighter this time.
Prime for 17 mins and no errors found
I have to admint there is a certain kind of unexplainable satisfaction when OC'ing and successful
Btw, screen shot below. And so sorry, I capture it once I've stop the workers. Forgot to capture it while Priming  
Only 60Mhz to 3.8Ghz

[attachmentid=2143582]