Got 6 controllers, all of em' are okay for me.
Including my "dead" original SIXAXIS controller.

What it means is that you use the PC as the source (bridge) for the audio.
PS3 connects to the PC, audio input.
PC audio outputs to the speakers.

This meaning that you can play music and play your games along as the audio outputs from the PC, not from the PS3.

And in this case, you don't have to disconnect and reconnect your audio cables everytime you want to play.
Just leave it there.

4 of my controllers = DS3. All working fine.
2 other controllers = Mad Catz fightpad (the SF4 one) and a PS3 Pro Elite Wireless controller (new 3rd party controller, got it for as a review unit). All working fine also.

I don't have a fragFX in-hand now, but from what I've seen on the complaints at the official PS board, it seems their fragFX isn't working correctly after 3.5 also.


Read the first page please.
You need a Y-cable of course, unless your soundcard has optical-in then in which case you need to get an optical cable.

HDMI video to your monitor.
Use the A/V cable connected to the Y-cable and then input to your PC.

Set video to HDMI.
Set audio to A/V.

Your video/image quality has nothing to do with the audio then.

Yes, of course I'm on 3.5.

Honestly, I don't know... I don't like the fightpad.
Prefer the DS3 really.

DS3 is still ages, miles, lightyears away better than that horrendous 360 d-pad....

Nah I'm just making comparisons out of the blue...

Don't have to break la..
Just modify the DS3 abit, open it up and remove the analog sticks individually from the front.

Then cover the analog holes with something so that your skin don't rub over the board.

And voila! Analog-less DS3!


I'm still waiting for MS to send me the "updated" controller to see if it works nice or not.
Wouldn't be getting one soon for sure.

Hmmmm...
I've gotten out a few guitars from GH: WT and Rockband 1 and they all worked fine.
Both third and first party even.

And all my thumbdrives (I've got 13 thumbdrives) are all usuable without issues too...

DS3 that comes with the PS3 ARE NEVER sealed.
So you are on the right track.


Some things that I have to make clear of though:

- If the paint color on the wodings (SONY, START, SELECT) are a little lighter than it was before... this is infact a very minor aesthetic change.
Sony wants the white controller to look a little more "icey", if you get what I mean. So this doesn't mean the controller is fake.

- The PS button looks darker than it was before. Now I don't know why it is darker, but again this doesn't proove that it is fake.


But right now, a few things you have to look at for is:

- The sticker on the back.
Now, no matter how good the counterfeits are the one thing they can never get correct is the sticker at the back.
Take good close look at the barcode, if they aren't digital black ink you know its fake.
Take a good close look at the sticker, it should be alligned PERFECTLY in propotion to the box.
And finally if you have a magnifying glass, look REALLY REALLY closely at the edge of the sticker, you should be able to see an underlayer of another piece there.
This signifies the sticker is original, once peeled it CANNOT be sticked back on as the barcode will be teared off.


- Open up the controller.
The sure fire way to see if its fake or real.
Unlike back in the PS1 and PS2 days, DS3 counterfeits are in such quality that even on the inside it is hard to distinguish the fake and the real.
But there are somethings to look out for. Check the vibration motors, if they aren't labeled that they're from Immersion (the same company that sued and later made an alliance with Sony), you can tell they're fake.
Look for the wordings IMI. If you don't see it, don't fret.
The next thing to look at is the soldering points on the board, if they aren't clean... you know something ain't right.
Then the battery of course, most if not all counterfeit DS3s uses refurbished batteries in which case they won't last long at a full charge.

And finally the motion controller on the DS3, it should be made by Toshiba and no one else... unless Sony changed to a different manufacturer (which I don't think they did).



Might want to add it to the front page shah.

The DS3 that comes with a PS3 is just in a plastic.
Not in a sealed box.

I'm not talking about the PS3 box being not sealead.

White, Red and black DS3s are the ones with the most counterfeits on the market.
With white leading followed by black and red.

If you really are super-paranoid, get a silver or blue.
Theres been seemingly nearly zero reports (atleast from my side) about fake silver DS3s.

Navigation controller?
Can't confirm yet, but chances are there is.

The Nav controller is way too easy to counterfeit.
But then again on the Nav case, because it doesn't have any features at all... it isn't really too big of an issue.

MGS4 launch event = RM230.
I can't belief I bought it there somemore.

Dualshock 3 = Vibration + Motion controls.
SIXAXIS = Motion controls only, no vibration.

Do quick format lol... theres nothing on the new drive, no use doing a full format.

You didn't mention in your first post...
It's more "stable" in a way that game installs or games that runs from the HDD will have no stuttering.

3-5 hours is fine, even up to 8 hours is okay as long as your room is cool.
But then again, anything may happen so... yea.

Don't worry, just play.

You can only do so much to take care of an electronic gadget.
At the end of the day, if it wants to break down... IT WILL. Nothing anyone can do about it.

Not to say we should play until we have no life, the point is to just play without worrying about anything... come on we're gaming!

So instead of putting unnessasary mental stress on one's self, just freaking play em' games and forget about everything.

You can always direct transfer from your PC to your PS3 via a media server.
Use something like Tversity or PS3 media server.