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 -+♦+- LYN OFFICIAL PROTON PERSONA THREAD V9 -+♦+-, Our pride, our ride!

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jasondotcom
post Nov 12 2010, 04:51 PM

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anyone had oil leaks to the engine oil dipstick guide seal at the bottom of the engine block???

mine had some. discovered at 5k mileage (now 26k mileage). initially was hard to determine if it is because it was very very slight causing dark marks due to oil + dust. it is not soo bad so it does not drip. So i let it be till now and it is quite obvious on where it came from.

anyone had these problems before???

This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Nov 12 2010, 04:59 PM
jasondotcom
post Nov 13 2010, 10:01 AM

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QUOTE(arfaie @ Nov 13 2010, 12:39 AM)
today installed power steering fluid pipe assembly at Juru SC..and so far, very satisfied with the result..no more metal knocking sound when cornering on uneven road... thumbup.gif

[attachmentid=1882244]
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is this the latest new solution??? because last time they add in the orifice valve i think solve 90% of the sound only. still have the sound at certain driving conditions while cornering...
jasondotcom
post Nov 15 2010, 10:37 AM

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Factory fitted air filter faulty??? Seems like it shrunk a lot... creating gap for UNFILTERED air to bypass. That means, when placing it back to the box, you need to place it really at the center rather than just drop it in.
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This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Nov 15 2010, 10:38 AM
jasondotcom
post Nov 15 2010, 10:38 AM

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New replacement filter. Look at the size. It fits tightly into the box. Just right. No gaps.
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jasondotcom
post Nov 15 2010, 10:42 AM

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old filter at 25k KM. Cannot see through

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new replacement filter.

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Added on November 15, 2010, 10:45 amEngine oil leak. Leakage detected during 5k KM service but i purposely left it untouched till 25k KM. Reason was because it was not that obvious from the beginning as it was just leaking a bit. No drips. Just feeling greasy in the said area. Going to claim it under warranty.

Location of leak: Engine oil dipstick guide tube o-ring seal gone.

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Added on November 15, 2010, 10:48 am
QUOTE(chteh0721 @ Nov 15 2010, 10:41 AM)
what's so special compare to the original proton unit ? last longer ?
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nothing special. just showing how the factory filter looked like as it is out of shape and shrunken at 25k KM usage. Not soo good. And just sharing to all that replacement air filter is needed at least 20k KM or twice a year as u can see my other photo following that post shows the dirty filter cannot see through already as it is too dirty.



This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Nov 15 2010, 10:48 AM
jasondotcom
post Nov 16 2010, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Nov 15 2010, 11:37 PM)
Went to tinker with my car just now .. and look what i found. vmad.gif

My air filter bengkok semacam..  mad.gif The rubber lining is totally deformed. Cant even push or hold it back into shape.
PS: Savor my super clean untouched engine bay..  drool.gif
[attachmentid=1887188]
[attachmentid=1887193]
[attachmentid=1887190]

Btw is this the master brake pump??

[attachmentid=1887198]

Proof that there is a rear fog lamp to be placed below our reverse light at the back.

[attachmentid=1887214]

Is our oil dipstick memang bent like this ah?? I have never seen any other car having a spiral like dipstick like this b4.

[attachmentid=1887207]

Sorry for poor quality pics.. All pics were taken in an eerily empty and shadily lit car park. The blur in the pic was also due to me shaking in fear that i might get buttrape too..  whistling.gif
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See that is why i said.... you all as consumer must be aware of your own property... cannot harap purely on mechs to check and do ur car. Most mechs are very very irresponsible and also useless. Regardless of power pokok style or dealers or service centres... All the same. Unless u drive continental cars and service / repair at those very high end workshops then its different story. (Through my years of experience with different car makes)

Ur engine all these while been ingesting unfiltered air la dude. Change the filter. It cost around RM14 only.

Yes that is the master brake pump.

Yes the dipstick is normal. Some cars have such designs.
jasondotcom
post Nov 16 2010, 04:00 PM

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QUOTE(DaBestOne @ Nov 16 2010, 11:48 AM)
Hmmm goof point, then I must start to learn how to look into my hood already.... It's a good thing to learn that hmm.gif
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actually its good to learn what is under ur car's skin. so that you are not prone to depend on hear say and bullshits put up forward by mechs and SAs.

thats why a lot of owners got bullshitted into adding this and that to their cars and ultimately pushed up their servicing bill to pay. kena con all the time. hahahaha...


Added on November 16, 2010, 4:02 pm
QUOTE(chteh0721 @ Nov 16 2010, 12:52 PM)
i always check my car ( oil level / radiator coolant / air filter etc) serviceable parts before left the sc. just want to makesure they had done what i had paid tongue.gif
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that's a good practice. oh one thing..... the one at tun jugah SC (kuching) always leave their paper floor mats in my car after handing over the keys after service. wth. i took it out many times already till i got fed up so i just take it out and throw it by their car park.

This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Nov 16 2010, 04:02 PM
jasondotcom
post Nov 16 2010, 04:07 PM

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QUOTE(armadasaxon @ Nov 16 2010, 01:46 PM)
I think i have the same problem as u.
It takes 3 or more crank to start my car(means turning the key on for 2-3 sec)..but after 2 -3 times starting,its like a push button,1 crank will do the immediate start..how come lidat?
my car 3800km edi.impossible not run in.
When i off my car,engine still running 2-3 seconds.like got turbo timer.


Added on November 16, 2010, 1:47 pm
u yahuu summore ah..u juz bought one of the most problematic car.
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based on my experience.... persona as a Malaysian make bullcrap... its pretty good built already. If you own a MyVi before.... you will know how shitty that car's built is. Most owners i know for myvi complained the same thing over and over. Visit sc for warranty claim since 1k service for 2 years straight (visit every 3-4 months for it) till i sold it off after almost 4 years cuz i got soo fed up with it as it felt like a 10 year old car! Steering racks x 7, disc brakes complete set x 8, automatic gearbox leak x 2 (one time was minor and second time was major as it leaked out all the ATF fluids and had to be towed).

So..... Persona's problem is nothing compared to it man. Seriously. Too minor.


Added on November 16, 2010, 4:08 pm
QUOTE(chteh0721 @ Nov 16 2010, 04:05 PM)
they just want to proof that they did cover ur interior properly during servicing rclxms.gif
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okla fine enough.... but don always let the customer do the rubbish throwing for them mah right....

This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Nov 16 2010, 04:11 PM
jasondotcom
post Nov 16 2010, 05:20 PM

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QUOTE(chteh0721 @ Nov 16 2010, 04:20 PM)
maybe you're one of the bad luck guy to own a problematic  myvi, just same like my friend who own a problematic persona as well. buying car is just like buying lottery haha, but the chances to own a problematic national car is very high haha.

i also very satisfy with my persona, so far only two major problems i facing which oredi been solved 1) dahsboard and 2) power window


Added on November 16, 2010, 4:22 pm

if i'm you i'll buy exora haha, initially i'm comparing exora and persona, but due to i'm still single so in the end i choose persona. exora wait until get married 1st hehe
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*not bad luck. the car is made that way with poor QC. proven by reviews in myvi.com.my forum. i was very active in there and met a lot of owners facing the same exact problems except gearbox leak which is rare.
jasondotcom
post Nov 19 2010, 11:43 AM

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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Nov 17 2010, 08:24 PM)
Do you have VS and grounding cable installed?? Hmm true also lah.. Harshness will always be there in the start..
Adoi.. RIP to them.. Damn now im scared ady.. My car Bline also.. And the cabin intrusion doesnt look that bad also and he died..
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yea persona's chassis body is very strong. no doubt about it. it is no longer milo tin and milo tin proton is already a myth since long time ago (applicable to Saga and Iswara and perhaps a bit of Wira).

but then, given the chassis body being strong, the chances of the occupants dying is also there due to excessive momentum. one's body could only withstand a certain degree of extreme pressure in an event of a accident. from the view of it, this lady could also have died to due her head impacting against the steering wheel excessively.


jasondotcom
post Nov 19 2010, 01:09 PM

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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Nov 18 2010, 05:18 PM)
Ok updates for everyone.. Just came back from CoSE today.. Reach there at 11.40am. Check out at 3:16pm.. Cant blame them for the slow service, there were really a lot of cars and a lot of their technicians were on leave. The counter lady told me that the car would only be ready soonest also after 2.30pm.. So i ok only loh.. What can i do.. Not anak datuk...  tongue.gif

Counter lady nvr bullshit me to buy any magnatrap or X1-R. Terus down to business, ask me want Shell HX7 or Petronas Semi. I choose the kerang lah.. Then i gave her a list of complaints.
1) Turn corner got tok tok sound
2) Flash ECU to 34/10 (My PE ady this version, no need to flash)
3) Tighten underchasis
4) Free alignment (the mechanic not in, so no free alignment lah)

Then i went to test drive the Inspira.  icon_rolleyes.gif  Still prefer PE lah.. PE feels more solid.. Inspira.. maybe due to their high profile tires and soft tune the car felt light and bouncy. Mivec still doesnt sound as sweet as Vtec though..

OK back to topic.. Persona uses 16bit ECU called ICM but PE uses 32bit BCM (Body control module like in BMW  thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif) So that means old persona cant reflash firmware and cant be tuned too. 32bit BCM can be tuned as in idling speed, fuel pressure and a lot more other stuff that the pomen went really technical into. Summary is 32bit ECU really got a lot of potential, not just a white elephant upgrade, can say specs are up to BMW, but a lot of the ECU controls are reserved for future car development.

For those who says that EMS 700 runs on close loop and cant be tuned.. haha.. Wait for our TT session then I can explain more lah.. icon_rolleyes.gif

As in for the Power steering assembly replacement. These are the parts they ordered.
[attachmentid=1891754]

Cause of the prob
[attachmentid=1891759]
The yellow outline pipe is the one that delivers the fluid to the power steering and when cornering and the chassis flex a bit and cornering on uneven road it will cause the metal bar to knock against the metal pipe below it. There is no causes for panic but they say the new assembly will have a rubber lining to prevent the sound from happening. Replacement is totally FOC including the power steering fluid.  thumbup.gif

Overall customer service is very good.. Good technician too albeit a slower service due to manpower shortage. Completely understandable. Free Wifi and they had the latest issues of magazines.. Including TopGear, which i found out something very bad.
November 2010 issue.
[attachmentid=1891767]

Oh tidak! PE getting bashed again..  cry.gif  Bagi lah chance sikit..
[attachmentid=1891768]

And Proton Persona New trim.
[attachmentid=1891772]

17" 225/45 R17 tires looks spot on too.
[attachmentid=1891774]

U gotta be really kidding with me.. Proton has a sense of humor too.. Like our UK TopGear brethren.
[attachmentid=1891773]

A lot more pics actually.. But dunno if u all interested to see or not..  whistling.gif
I may have left some stuffs out as I was chatting a lot of stuffs with the technicians.. And i was in the Neo R3 too..  drool.gif
Cant say much bout Neo R3 due to confidentiality agreement.. But for 2011/2012, Proton is going to bring some real big goodies in for us...
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u can email me those pics at nhaixin69@yahoo.co.uk

finally i knew what wheel size that is on the envy
jasondotcom
post Nov 19 2010, 02:54 PM

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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Nov 19 2010, 02:46 PM)
My neighbour have done this autofoam for his Wiralution. To be honest it doesnt really insulates vibration really well lah.. U do notice an improvement in vibration absorption. But the sound insulation is much better. Normally when his wira go over potholes u will hear loud bop bop sound, after autofoam it becomes thup thup.. The difference is like continental car door closes with a deep solid thud, wira door close like tin kosong klock..
Ok will do later at night when I reach home..
After first service yest, today i drove the car like 32km ady. Noticeable improvements are FC is really much better (last time 1 gap can go about 100km city driving, now 32km ady but the fuel meter went down like less than 1/4th of a gap. I used a ruler to measure for accuracy.  tongue.gif )  And my engine has became really smooth and revvy.. 2400-3500rpm pick up is really really fast and with aircon at coldest at 50% blower due to hot afternoon. The compressor kicks in frequently also but i dont notice the engine shudder associated with it b4 my 1k service. Actually yest i was discussing with R3 technicians and they said the oil can pour lesser.. 3.5-3.6L also enuf ady. the oil pan size is 3.8L. Told the mechanic doing my car and he poured like 3.5L++ of oil only. The dipstick shows that its 90% full only on cold engine (I measured it before starting my car this morning). So far engine temp remains the same.
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First of all, thanks in advance. I am waiting for your email. Hope you dun mind.

Dude i got few questions for you:-

1. What did you do that it improves on FC, engine power and better aircond cooling?
2. What you mean can pour in lesser engine oil?
3. What does it gotta do with ur engine temp??? Dun get it.
jasondotcom
post Nov 19 2010, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Nov 19 2010, 03:26 PM)
First there is 1 part to understand. The oil pan is where all the oil u pour in will be held. So the crankshaft will pusing and flick the oil onto the piston head and conrod to lubricate it also also serves as a medium to take away the heat generated and cooling the stroker kit. (stroker kit refers to Piston head, conrod and crankshaft, the main moving components that generates the friction and heat in the engine)

Oil circulation is kept separate from the fuel/air mixture, thereby preserving oil rather than burning it as happens in two-stroke engines. Oil moves from its reservoir, is pressurized by an oil pump, and is pumped through the oil filter to remove grit. The oil is then squirted into the crankshaft and connecting rod bearings and onto the cylinder walls, and eventually drips off into the bottom of the crankcase. In a wet sump system, oil remains in a reservoir at the bottom of the crankcase, referred to as the oil pan. In a dry sump system, oil is instead pumped to an external reservoir.
Even in a wet sump system, the crankshaft has minimal contact with the sump oil. Otherwise, the high-speed rotation of the crankshaft would cause the oil to froth, making it difficult for the oil pump to move the oil, which can starve the engine of lubrication. Small amounts of oil may splash onto the crankshaft during rough driving, referred to as windage.
In a wet sump system, the main dipstick and oil filler cap connect to the crankcase.
(pics here http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase)

99.99% of engines now are wet sump. In the pic in the link, the half circle shape piece is the thing that flicks the oil from the oil pan below to the cylinder head and conrod. The max capacity of oil pan means the max amount of oil it can fill before the oil reaches the crankshaft. Thats why when u overfill with too much oil, the crankshaft is partially submerged in oil, causing unnecessary friction and thus a heavier engine that have problem revving. More friction means higher transmission power loss and higher FC.

So u can fill slightly lesser oil as under normal city driving, with low to mid rpm level (below 5k rpm), the stress on the engine is normal, creating normal level of heat, so the crankshaft is able to splash enough oil around to lubricate and cool down the stroker kit. As the amount of oil is lesser, there is lesser friction generated when the half moon shape piece comes into contact with the oil in the oil pan, resulting better engine response, lesser transmission power loss and better FC as there is lesser drag.

About engine temp, as previously if filled the oil pan till full, maybe example case, 500ml of oil is splashed to lubricate and take away the engine heat to cool down by the radiator. If fill lesser oil, mb 450ml is splashed to take away the same amount of heat. So if the radiator cooling is inefficient, the engine oil temp will be higher than usual (lesser oil with the same amount of heat generated) , if engine oil temp higher, the engine block temp will be higher too).

The aircond cooling i mentioned before service, when the compressor kicks in i can feel the vibration and the speedo and radio lights will dim a bit, but after 1k service i rarely notice the dimming so far eventhough i was driving in hot afternoon weather.
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zeng:

Sorry to cause trouble to you but..... actually i know all these in depth technical things. Just that, all of a sudden in the that particular previous post i couldn't catch up what u were saying and at that moment i thought there were some tunings or improvements for the PE engine designs. Sorry dude. hahaha...

yes, talking about engine oil filling.... i have been stressing this since my earlier posts. stories of me in a heated arguement with the mech and even once i snatched off the engine oil bottle from the mech cuz he keeps insisting to pour all 4 LITRES into the engine. sigh.... been fighting over this issue for almost 10 years now. and its still going on. Next one in 5k mileage service. hahahahaha.

I never ever filled my engine oil to the max and prefers half filled. it performs far better and no problems at all. problem is, all local mechs love to overfill the engine oil and i dunno why its the case....... seriously.

some more, SC mechs always stress out that CAMPRO engines need full 4 litres of engine oil. what bullshit crap is that. walau.

This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Nov 19 2010, 04:00 PM
jasondotcom
post Nov 20 2010, 09:07 AM

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QUOTE(unknownhammie @ Nov 19 2010, 07:41 PM)
Btw, persona B-line fog lamp there got no bulb but got Wire or not?
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QUOTE(ZenGTMM @ Nov 19 2010, 11:20 PM)
I wouldnt mind starting V10. Im a student currently and im connected to the net most of the time and have more time to spare..  biggrin.gif
Thanks bro. Will do my best to help.  nod.gif
Yeah according to bro arfaie's pic, there seems to be some form of insulation or rubber along the U-bend with a metal tie-bar in the middle of the U-bend to prevent freeplay.
Just went through the manual just now. Persona oil pan capacity is 3.75L. The oil filter capacity is 0.3L. It seems logical to pouring 4L of oil into the engine, however, the the engine oil in the packaging is measured at standard room temp and manufacturers always pour slightly more oil to meet the minimum requirement of 4L net oil. Engine oil expands ~4.7% from the temp 15degree to 90degree. So assume oil expands at 4.7% x 4L=4.188L. Tadah. 188ml excess oil at standard engine operating temp. Imaging if ur foot is made of brick and weights like iron. Sure more than that.
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Whenever they pour in 4L of engine oil, the next morning i check before starting OR few hours later after being left parked, the dipstick shows clearly that there is overfill. Several wipes and recheck confirms the overfilling. Quite a lot actually. And i had to go to the nearest workshop to have it drained or pumped out the excess. kanasai. its super bad for the engine and FC.

QUOTE(arfaie @ Nov 19 2010, 11:24 PM)
correct..they install additional "rubber" protection along the tube to prevent it knocking..

about engine oil, i always insist the mechanic to not over pour..makes my engine lighter n better FC
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ok..... i am going to DIY insulate the aluminum pipe later when i reach home.


Added on November 20, 2010, 9:15 am
QUOTE(unknownhammie @ Nov 19 2010, 07:41 PM)
Btw, persona B-line fog lamp there got no bulb but got Wire or not?
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u hv to specify Persona Elegance version or regular. Because mine 2009 model B Line normal version got cables and plugs ready behind the bumper. Just that dun have the switch for it at the dashboard.

This post has been edited by jasondotcom: Nov 20 2010, 09:15 AM
jasondotcom
post Nov 20 2010, 09:38 AM

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QUOTE(armadasaxon @ Nov 20 2010, 09:33 AM)
Anyone having vibrating sound from driver side dashboard?
Dunno the sound come from vent or dashboard,can verify?
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its somewhere around the console area on the left and right under the dash.
jasondotcom
post Nov 20 2010, 11:42 PM

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QUOTE(armadasaxon @ Nov 20 2010, 12:10 PM)
from aircon got la..replaced..but from engine..nvr notice..coz the campro breathe too loud.


Added on November 20, 2010, 12:11 pm
So how to fix it or what u tel to the mech so he knows wat sound izzit?
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i just try to find it myself. try to DIY solve it. iyah u send to workshop they also do the same thing. you think they are GOD can solve everything? hahaha....

see how first. i have yet to really look into it. been pretty busy with life lately.
jasondotcom
post Nov 21 2010, 08:22 PM

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QUOTE(chteh0721 @ Nov 21 2010, 08:00 PM)
the major improvement will be the ECU, 16 vs 32 bits
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i mean seriously,..... in terms of performance and overall, is there really2 noticeable improvements???? So far i have not heard of any although it is claimed by manufacturer of course.

one for sure is, its more tunable and offers greater support for future car platforms.



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