Ray, good job.. nice appetizers.. now waiting for chef to deliver main course.. *bangs knife and fork on table top*

try to keep the processing to a level that it doesnt become too intrusive and it'll be good. as they say, less is more.. the best is if you can manage to make it look as though there is no heavy processing at all but the look is definitely not achievable in-camera, then you're half way there.

i very much prefer your later posts

bro wanna to ask.. my external flash dosent work.. any advise..
my fren said my flash do not attach correctly with the body,,
i dont understand it..?

maybe ur hotshoe contact got oxidised or the flash head is loosely connected...
can the flash work in wireless mode?

bro wanna to ask.. my external flash dosent work.. any advise..
my fren said my flash do not attach correctly with the body,,
i dont understand it..?

mine also....i normally use my shirt to clean the contact..lol

dont be mad.. im just asking for advise..
thanks with that info...

dont be mad.. im just asking for advise..
thanks with that info...

eh..seriously le..i use shirt to rub rub that contact on the alpha...which the flash will sit on..

r u sure...
that so simple to make it..
thanks again...

haha, he's not mad larr... he's just that type who is active.. hoho...

well, u can try using those blue eraser ( for ink one ) and rub at the contacts... maybe it will help?

i m sure...=.=..use shirt to wipe off some oxidized layer oni la...wont kill the surface..=.=...not ask u use sand paper..

i m sure...=.=..use shirt to wipe off some oxidized layer oni la...wont kill the surface..=.=...not ask u use sand paper..

ahpingko: Wah don't say like that lah.

zstan: Like the hearts, but not the bokeh bit in front.

demio121: Yes, sensor cleaning always happens upon turning off the camera.

applemango: Yes seriously, use a blue ink eraser. You can also use your fingernails to scrape the oxidization off the top.

thanks dude.. its work ...
   

zstan: Like the hearts, but not the bokeh bit in front.

RazorVista: Make sure that you are not recomposing.

http://www.mhohner.de/recompose.php

Your A700 center AF sensor is made of two cross-type sensors and one F2.8 sensor, thus made out of a total of 5 line sensors. It can detect detail to focus on in both horizontal and vertical direction.

However the other sensors are line sensors which mean they can only detect detail best in one direction. If the line sensor is horizontal, you can focus on a vertical wall fine, but you might have problems using this same line sensor to focus on the edge of a horizontal table.

My A700 had backfocus on the center AF point. It would happen at further distances with my Minolta 50mm F1.4. This is one of two common cases - the other is backfocus with wide-angle lenses and the 16mm end of the Zeiss 16-80mm (which miraculously focuses fine at 18mm!)

evilhomura89: Thanks for finding the quote!

They might be able to fix battery life, come up with some hack for RGB, and 10 FPS live feed, but the aperture being F3.5, to me, seems to be pretty much set in stone. Though I don't see why they can't keep the aperture wider while using virtual F3.5, this could be done to remove focus shift. *

* focus shift is a characteristic of some bright aperture lenses, where if you've focused at F1.4, and stopped down to F8, your lens focus shifts. This happens on the Minolta 50mm F1.4 and Nikkor 50mm F1.4 AF-D, and is optically fixed on the Sigma 50mm F1.4 EX DG HSM. The Sony A230/A900 onwards seemed to have smarter firmware to compensate for this, but my A700 did not, hence I had backfocus with my Minolta 50mm F1.4.