Don't worry, squeeky sound is 'normal' for drum brake.

Don let them tune the fuel intake. As long as ur idling is 800-900rpm is ok adi. You will regret later if u increase it.

No good in terms of FC.

Any of ur friend got auto BLM as well? test drive their car, if same vibration, then should be 'not' a problem, but only urs like that, bring to another SC for checking.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Feb 19 2011, 11:48 AM

The A pillar is dented.

Normal.

That was aircon compressor kick in sound.

The 'shocked' feel is due to compressor kick in as well, because the compressor is too powerful to be used in such small cc engine.

Better don't push the hood with force, the hood will be dented easily, i'm victim of that.

Just lift it higher (no need too high, 10-15cm is more than enough) and let go ur hand. Slam not necessary with brute force.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Feb 20 2011, 09:34 PM

Your description is funny, like bomb explosion.

Normal 'gud'...

This compressor is damn powerful, but break in torque is very high, around 35Nm of torque consume to start the compressor, which is mechanical loss, and suitable for 1600cc and above car, but not our 1.3 campro.

During slowdown let say @ <2k rpm, our engine only produce ~90-100Nm torque, thats why when compressor kickin, you will feel jerk (especially manual), torqueless becos >30% torque suddenly took away by compressor.

VS help a little, because during compressor on, there are some voltage dip, VS can help to minimised the voltage dip, but the loss is mainly due to mechanical rather than electrical, so you might not be able to notice the improvement.

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Added on February 22, 2011, 5:20 pmSo far noticed on Myvi, Camry, Altis. City light will dim when compressor kickin, i would say almost all cars. But this is normal, in real world, sudden current suck will cause the voltage to drop, thats why we have Vdroop in PC CPU, and compensator to auto compensate the voltage drop. Unfortunate our cheap BLM didn't come with this equipment.

I drove Myvi manual before, jerk like hell in low gear as well, which is same as BLM. But not for BLM auto and Myvi auto. My guess is the torque converter 'absorb' the sudden kick from the compressor, thats why the jerking feel is minimized, but it also fulfill the theory that torque converter is less efficient in torque transferring compare to manual clutch, isn't it?

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Feb 22 2011, 05:20 PM

Sorry to say that the steering cover is suck in nature, it vibrate and come out noise when ride on bumpy road or speedline, i noticed this one after few days i got my car. Solution? i open that cover and insert a lot of sponges in the empty space, problem solve immediately. Don't hope the SC can help you, replace with new one absolutely won't help.

Electric is just used to connect the compressor magnetic clutch to the flywheel, after all the compressor rotating power is supplier by engine torque, so there is nothing to do with compressor size or power. Our compressor is Sanden SD7H15, top of SD7 family, piston type, well known damn cold aircon, even better than famous Nippon Denso, you can go to search their main website. But the draw back is it need higher torque from the engine to drive it.

Maybe next time when ur compressor is kong, u can replace with relatively less powerful compressor such as SD7H13 or even SD7B10, i think is more than enough, because even now the ori compressor is damn powerful, >90% i only use hottest (lowest dial position) temp and slowest fan speed.

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Added on February 22, 2011, 5:52 pmI suspect something inside rather than outside ur car. If you can hear the bonnet sound then u need to be ready the bonnet will fly away at high speed.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Feb 22 2011, 05:52 PM

at bold part.

U have to troubleshoot that sound for urself, as BLM got alot of 'sound'

My car is heavily soundproof, yet it can't eliminate all the noise, especially tyre noise. The final solution for me is to change tyre 7k km more later.

Ok, basically BLM noise can be divided in 3 categories.

1. Tyre and road noise. (most severe)
2. Engine noise.
3. Part vibration noise such as dashboard, power windows bracket, door lock mechanism and all the plastic things inside your cabin.

So far my countermeasure for that:
1. Soundproof fender and plastic wheel arc. Done at acc shop - reduce front tyre noise effectively, and reduce engine noise and wind noise coming through the fender as well.

2. Whole floor and boot soundproof and deadening. This can reduce tyre noise effectively, and road noise echo is eliminated. Front floor soundproof depends how deep they extend into firewall, for my case, after soundproof the engine noise is reduce gain. Whole floor done outside, while boot area DIY.

3. All doors 3 layer deadening and 1 layer soundproof. Front door soundproof can reduce engine noise, front tyre noise and wind noise effectively, and this kind of heavily deadening totally eliminate the rattling sound of the door and power windows, this can't be done by just apply insufflex. Door soundproof is DIY, i will say, damn tiring.

4. Cheapest way to reduce engine, tyre and wind noise, change your door soundproof rubber, you can search at Chinese Cari forum, that one is OEM rubber, fit perfectly and not like the sticker type that sold at automotive garage here. I would say the C/P ratio for this one is the most highest one.

Now only left firewall, will left it 1st, because now my car engine noise is reduced almost 50% after i done all the soundproof and deadening above. The remaining one is tyre low frequency noise.

All the work above is done gradually over 4 months.

What mean by 'loose'? I found it very 'tight'.

Saga >100kg more heavier than Wira
Wira is 1.6L while Saga is 1.3L

So what you expect?

I will suggest you buy Persona rather Saga, else you will suffer in terms of FC and power with Saga.

For me Wira 1.6L auto -> Saga 1.3L auto consider downgrade. Especially he always travel to Genting.

I think Campro engine contribute to the extra weight, becos is alloy.

In terms of weight,

Saga = Vios,
Wira = Myvi.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Feb 23 2011, 04:37 PM

Not yet la, 2300+ posts only, must reach 2.5k first.

Dashboard area no solution yet, no one dare to open it, its complicated and not as easy as the steering cover.

In short, BLM gear level is too long, and too tight...quick shift need alot of effort, i suffer 'collide gear' several times adi, becos i thought it 'should' engaged adi, but not, until i release my clucth, too late...krak krakkkkkk...

Next time change this to ur car, then can become refrigerator adi.

Tyre no warranty la.