Yes, their lr6 220v is overprice. But this model have a 1000 lumens. The brightness so far.

I try get 1 and modify the driver. I intend to run it on DC voltage. Just try and error.

A lot better than those china led. If you don't mind the price.

From the forumer here said, probably cost rm400+. The led cannot change. It come in whole set.

The alternative is use CFL.

If your halogen is 12vdc and same kaki, should be no problem.

Wiring won't cause problem to your bulbs. Wiring problem cause your power trip and short.

Bulb problem is from quality of the bulb and the over voltage problem.

Not all led is dimable. Unless it state can be dim.

My LED downlight CREE LR6 come already after many week wait. This model famous in western side and very reliable. Cost around RM120.

Spec is equavalent to 65w bulb, 10.5w, 575Lumens, 3yrs warranty, 35k life hr, 2700k and 120V. It is not suitable for here since our voltage is 240V.



Use a step down transformer 240V-110V to fire up the downlight.



This downlight is not really efficiency and not run exactly wattage as it claim 10.5W. Using kill a watt meter to check, actual run is 11.6W or almost 12W. Probably PF0.9.



After sastified the brightness and confirm it working, start to open up inside and see what is inside there. So a AC-DC powersupply(driver) and inside is some LED. Check the voltage supply to the LED is 17VDC.



Than takeout the powersupply and direct joint to a laptop adaptor which is a 16VDC. Now I can use 240V adaptor and direct joint to the CREE downlight. Running no problem with actual volatge is 16.36VDC.



This post has been edited by ozak: Dec 18 2018, 09:24 AM

Maybe got offset already kua. Can't ask us to minus out every time read the data. If few day, that would accumulate a lot.

You can get it from trade zone.

I didn't measure the laptop adaptor after modify the light. As that day, the incoming volatge is 250V! I worried the watt meter will spoil. (Spoiled before)

I believe the watt usage will be higher than the original AC-DC board. As the laptop adaptor spec is 80w. Which you can power 7pcs of this downlight. Using the laptop adaptor to power 1pcs of this is overkill.

The downlight without the AC-DC board, I believe is 10.5W as it claim. But I would like to confirm again later on. The watt meter can't check the DC voltage to the LED. Got to use another way.

Today try to check again. So takeout the original driver and direct joint to the laptop adaptor. To my suprise, the running watt from the laptop adaptor is lower than the driver itself. Just 5.8W!

Measure the LED watt consume. The meter show 0.179A. So the watt is 16.3VDC x 0.18A = 3W! Can't believe it that low. Something wrong with my culculation. Is that mean the original driver is consume half of this LED downlight?





This post has been edited by ozak: Dec 18 2018, 09:31 AM

1) Check at your DB box MCB. Normally MCB for light is 10A or 15A. For 10A = 2400W. Do your calculation that your bulb add in total.

2) Your MCB trip.

Philip also is a crap. My early home using, is all philip. Now switch to hitachi. Running 2yrs average or 8khr before burn. It is between the spec as it claim.

If it blow off between each other continue, maybe cause by the high voltage. Sometime incoming is 250v.

But T8 brightness reduce after sometime.

My working place using alot of T8 light. Definitily can see the brightness reduce after a year. The reduce brightness make you feel dull.

No wonder I always have monday blue when seeing this light.

It can support. You need board or plaster ceiling wall plug. Normal wall plug cannot. Can get it from ACE.

Any light will do for a timer. For energy saving, LED is save more compare others. But come with a cost.

It still have the floresent light look.

I think he boring with the look. Just look for nice design cover or what ever designing light. But inside is flurosent light.