Would U like to try it out 1st and then get back and share with us the result.

The reason I suggested distributor is because of I had the same problem as Urs on a 4G13 and it's what I did to get the problem solved.

U may wanna check the spark plug's heat range # just to make sure that Ur not using any spark plug lower than then heat range # recommended although tht is not likely where the problem is.

Would U like to share with us as well whether U have done any cylinder compression testing?

I think the sound is knocking sound la, retard the timing a bit can solve this problem, but retard too much will make the car under power, so retard a bit then go test drive, until ngam ngam no knocking then settle

u also can try RON97, can reduce a bit knocking...

Turn anticlockwise about 1 to 2 mm for a start. The timing
will probably drop between 3 to 6 degrees.

The sound may be old engine mountings, which sometimes
sound very much like knocking or pinging.

I have the same problem when accelerating uphill at times,
and initially thought it was overly advanced timing causing
knocking, but my brother, whom this Iswara belongs to,
told me it was the mountings.

Thanks man, I tried to tighten up the clips, so far no more leaking, will change it soon..

Any pics to show how to do that?

whats your requirement? hard driving, cornering? or just normal drive.. ?

If they are no longer leaking after tightening the clips,
and the hoses still seem to be in fairly good shape, it's
better to leave them alone for the moment and save some money.

I've been told that if the engine is running fairly well, it's better
to leave things as they are, rather than messing around, which
might well cause more problems later. Once you pull out the old
hoses, there are bound to be some rust, old gasket gum, scaling,
etc on the outlets, and if not properly cleaned, may well cause
leaks later when you push in the new ones.

Anyway, if you still decide to replace them, Universal Parts
is at 26 Jalan Sungei Besi, KL. Tel : 9221 1900. Ask for
James, the boss's son who is there most of the time
running the show. Very young guy, quite nice, good prices.
The boss is Alan Tay. Their shop specializes in mostly Proton parts.

I think it is good enough to get the Pong Codan hoses. They say
that their products are certified to ISO standard on their website.
Two of the main radiator hoses will cost just RM24, compared
to RM36 for the Fudex.



About the timing adjustment. I haven't tried adjusting the Saga's,
and don't have any pics.

I've done that for my older car, a Corolla KE70 many times, whose
electronic distributor is simpler except for the vacuum advance,
which has two hoses. On that one, you just loosen one locknut
and turn the distributor anticlockwise too.

I can see two locknuts on the Saga distributor, which I think are
the ones to be loosened. (Better ask your mechanic first before
trying anything.)

Mark the distributor housing's alignment with the engine body
with a red marker pen before making any adjustment.

Looking at the distributor's top from the front left (driver's side)
of the engine, turn it anticlockwise about 1 or 2 mm. Technically,
you need a timing light to be precise, but you could try this for
the time being. Use the tachometer as a guide, which should show
back the same RPM if you readjust back to the original position.

This post has been edited by Tham: Aug 3 2010, 07:07 PM

thxs to one of our bro who get the custom made dashboard done for his lmst, not sure if he is active in this thread or not

Just go for Falken ZE912 or Michelin XM1.

If you want performance tyres, then you need to upgrade to 15'

Sifus, a noob question. My 1.3 standard iswara has been jerking during low rpm but no problem when it gets more than 2000 rpm. A mechanic said I need to clean my carb and re-tune it again and will cost around RM190. For some reason it sounds a little too expensive for me. Is that the price for Carb cleaning + tuning? Any shops to recommend around PJ area?

Thanks in advance.

if u can go kepong, find unker fred... pm him thru lowyat... fstrader...

Awwhh.. roger that. I did msg'ed him this morning. Saw his posts on zerotohundred. Shall wait for his reply.

Thanks!

The 1 who uses his nose as a probe of the gas analyzer, isn't he?

Wah, use nose? really expert in tuning card like that.. my car also need to retuned the carb..

I think his nose "smells" better than those gas analyzer

Organic way of tuning instead of using high tech gadgets

anyone know how much to repair iswara aeroback 1.3 front headlamp, signal light?
the front headlamp is an antique which perform nothing on the dark road, signal light cover is broke.

Legendary unker

Wonder how much carbon monoxide has he inhaled

edited

This post has been edited by GMS FearLess: Aug 6 2010, 11:43 PM

lol?

huh?
y tiba2 lansi?
i got many buddies here
want me to pm them one by one izit...lol
...i've been on this thread for ages just that i've been bz with work lately so no time to show up on a regular basis
just coz u havent seen me around, doesnt mean im some random person pasting links around
check out the 1st page...my handle is there...no.55
what number are you?
dont randomly shoot off insults in the future
its not very polite k kiddo?...

p.s. guys...recent milage record: 13.87km/L!

---

Added on August 5, 2010, 12:51 pmi suggest you get a strobe light to do this
incase you turn a little too much, wont have any way to get the angle back



i agree with you that you should change old hardened hoses
old hoses have the tendancy to fail and when one does fail (its not IF,...but rather WHEN ) and say you are cruising on the highway at 110kmh, in a minute or two your engine block temp will start to rise...a minute or so later, your engine will most likely seize
when this happens, you kill your pistons and your cylinders
possibly break a conrod or two and even bend your crank shaft
worst case scenario, u even crack your cylinder head and chip the block
so for a few bucks, you might as well change the hoses

but what tham said is also correct
there will be some crap on the metal parts when the hose is removed
when you go to buy your hoses, get some high temp silicone gasket maker (red silicone)
after you pull off the hoses, use a SMALL BRASS wire brush (its softer than steel brush) to brush the metal and clean off any gunk stuck on
u can use a flat screwdriver or testpen VERY GENTLY to pick of stubbourn bits
its only cast alloy and it scratches very easily
a bad scratch will result in a leak path which will only get worse
after its nice and clean, wipe it off with a dry cloth
next, get the hose you want to fix ready
smear some red silicone all around the metal (less than 1mm...just a thin layer) and for the full length
leave a bit more around last bit towards the tip (3 or 4mm?)
now put the hose on
the hose should push the excess silicone down (always remember to have your jubliee clips on the hose so you dont have to pull out the hose again)
once the hose is in place and you have check to see that the other end is in the right position (if not twist the hose a bit till its just right), tighten the jubliee clip to about 95%
wipe away any access silicone to make it neat
do this for all your tubes and then leave them for about 30minutes for the silicone to set
then go back and tighten the last 5% (its basically 1/8 of a turn)
the silicone should fill in all the pits and holes (if any) and let you have a good solid seal until your next change

never loosen the jubliee clips unless you have to, in which case you will have to clean it up with the brush etc again and reapply the silicone
if you forget to put in a jubliee clip and have to pull out the hose again, reapply the layer of silicone before refitting the tube

This post has been edited by neosaint99: Aug 5 2010, 02:24 PM